Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yup looked at that and assumed as such...

Mate seemed to think one curve was stock (lower output) vs hi-flow. I said that I would find it hard to believe and that its hardly worth the upgrade if a standard turbo can make ~230RWKW reliably

They are high flowed on different boost levels. They are actually same chra used in Std 21U/OP6 high flows. Steel wheels and very reliable.

Above is from an Auto 1JZGTE, compare to the manual version it is roughly 10% behind in power.

Hey Stao

I've been out of this thread for a while but I've got a couple of questions.

Its hard to find new CHRA's for stock rb turbos, how much would it cost to make one that fits into stock housings?

My neo turbo is on its way out but I don't want to highflow because it would then need clutch, fmic, coilpacks etc etc, I'm happy with how it performs as it is (its just a daily)

I was thinking the other day, there must be a few people who want a rebuilt stock turbo that won't need to be tuned afterwards.

Would this be something you could make for a reasonable price?

A Neo turbo is basically like any other RB25 Hitachi but usually with the larger OP6 turbine housing .

Tao could tell you but the Hitachi centre housing is of similar dimensions to the old Garrett T3/T4 water cooled bearing housing and from memory the water banjo thread size is the same .

The Garrett centre needs a Garrett T3 sized aluminium compressor back plate and the Hitachi compressor housings are almost the same sise where they clamp on . The Hitachi back plate is part of the centre housing casting .

Minor machining lets the Hitachi turbine housing fit the Garrett style centre housing .

Long short if you can find a serviceable RB25 Hitachi turbo use that with your turbine housing if it's the larger one .

A .

The 310rwkws run above was from our standard R33 21U high flow.

Well, I won't be able to rebuild stock Rb25det turbocharger, because in most of cases it the shaft does snaps off the turbine wheel when I undo the nut.

I can high flow it using a smaller profile If you like stock response and drive ability. They are pretty sweet on stock boost working with factory ecu.

Dark blue is the G1 high flow, while light blue is standard turbocharger:

Based on a R34 GTT with Rb25det Neo motor, with supporting mods and pump 98 fuel:

atr28ssRB25200kw.jpg

atr28ssRB25200kwboost.jpg

^^^

It won't make a lot of power tho, I recommend standard profile if supporting mods are planed. The cost to high flow either profiles are the same.

So you couldn't make a chra that the stock housings would bolt to without needing the housings to be machined? I'm assuming here that machining the housings to suit your chras and new wheels is a bit labour intensive

Majority of people wants them high flowed so I didn't look into making a drop in core. I mean if you can't take your car off the road I can send you a high flowed OP6 turbo.

More that I can't justify the supporting mods to make the most of one of your turbos. I will be selling in the next 6 months too so would prefer to fix up the turbo but don't want to outlay too much money as I won't recover it. And would prefer something new rather than swapping an unknown stock turbo onto it.

Over the years I've seen a few Stagea owners searching for a similar option as the car is just a daily driver for them, surely some skyline owners would also like a core that they could throw in and not worry about exploding and run on a stock tune

For 10psi or under, it works pretty fine with stock ECU. The profile above would be as close to stock configuration as possible. But at moment I don't have a drop in core to replace the factory chra.

Pipster11: Please check your email. I've forward you with a special offer on an high flow service. Cheers. :yes:

Results sent in from another customer. This is an ATR28G2 on an S15 with tomei drop in cams making 227rwkws @ 18psi on pump 98 fuel. I think it is an fair number considering the car has been mildly modded to be street legal. Customer is mentioning stronger actuator with more free flow induction, cooler kit and exhaust in near future so hopefully seeing an higher numbers from it soon.



Also noticed the dyno run was using 5th gear?



atr28g2.jpg


Cool, Working on an ball bearing version of TD06x based turbochargers at moment. Pretty challenging so far as the bearing housing is very short and cast without much materials in it. lol. I will up load photos once completed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...