Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What brand of mufflers were they, Johnny?

X Force lol.. and the rear is Fujitsubo, will piss the lot off after the new turbo setup

Thanks all (Stao included) It goes for a retune early next year for e85 so I'll get it looked at then. What are the options for a more free flow exhaust? Would decat see some gains? Does anyone know how PWR compares to Plazmaman?

big dump down pipe ano no cat is best... easily gain 10kW with no cat

Hi stao.

Are you saying the new prototype 21u high flow is making 287rwkw with the return flow inter cooler on pump 98? If so that is good to here.

When will it be available??

Thanks

No, I've made 290rwkws on an ATR45SAT SRFC model, that was engineered to max out my Blitz cooler kit. That one is available.

21U high flow was using an PWR cooler, you will likely be seeing that making 250rwkws region on a return flow kit.

No, I've made 290rwkws on an ATR45SAT SRFC model, that was engineered to max out my Blitz cooler kit. That one is available.

21U high flow was using an PWR cooler, you will likely be seeing that making 250rwkws region on a return flow kit.

Mad, I'm glad you and I both reproduced the same results. Anyway to get a bit less lag Stao?

It looks like you are reaching 20psi by 120KM/H which is 4280RPM. This is a fairly large size turbo, can use BB CHRA which will get 100 RPM better in response, and having a 600x300x100mm FMIC can pickup some response also. Its making 20psi at 4000RPM on my R34. I'm working on a different turbine wheel at moment. I see if I can pickup the same amount of power with better response.

Thanks Stao, I'd love to see your results.

Have you come across the A/c drain hitting the dump pipe in any of your tests? Mine melted (completely missed it when fitting the turbo) so I chopped it but I'm worried the a/c drain will drip on the dump pipe now and crack it or atleast cause a lot of steam.

Took a short video about our Internal wastegate assembly operation that is currently fitted to all ATR43xx turbochargers as well as some of the high flows:

actuator.jpg

I've read quite a bit about the Blitz Return flow coolers and how the kits pose restrictions - from your investigations it seemed as if the conclusion was the cooler core was the issue with such a large pressure drop? I like the idea of the return flow piping utilising standard pipes in bay, if a 600x300x76 decent cooler such as plazmaman or pwr were to be used with custom piping similar to that of the blitz kits (potentially even the same size piping), is it safe to say this would be similar to say the set up you currently have in your 34?

I'm considering using the blitz kit for now until a turbo upgrade (down the track) then swapping out for a better cooler and having the blitz piping altered to suit. I eventually want a tad over 300rwkw on 98 but just want a nice easy cooler for the mean time.

Thanks for reading.

Along same vein but back to the 21u high flow on the r34. With return flow max around 250rwkw with the return flow. However, running e85 would that net you around 270rwkw due to the advantages re. Timing and knock resistance compared with p98?

Toshi seemed to think e85 isn't great in a car that is driven once a week (lose octane over the time and could get knock), but others on here seem to think it's ok.

Any thoughts? Would like ultimate response

The VP racing fuels E85 additive is claimed to do similar and also provide lube to the engine.

I'm considering welding my internal gate shut on my ATR45 in the coming months when I got for an E85 tune, going external gate etc to see if the boost control improves (I would assume flow improves as well with a screamer) - Any thoughts on this?

The VP racing fuels E85 additive is claimed to do similar and also provide lube to the engine.

I'm considering welding my internal gate shut on my ATR45 in the coming months when I got for an E85 tune, going external gate etc to see if the boost control improves (I would assume flow improves as well with a screamer) - Any thoughts on this?

Just use Lucas Ethanol Stabiliser, pretty cheap and drop in 30mL at a time into your full tank... prior to my flex setup, I just did that and the car gets driven at most once a week, usually every fortnight.

Fuel filter after 2000km looked pretty ok, no extra deposits or anything but did have some brown gunk in it as usual.

As for running an external, make sure you vent it from the manifold to relieve back pressure.. running the gate of the turbo "may" be a good idea however the factory manifold is pretty restrictive as I've found out on the dyno.

The manifold and gate were glowing bright red and when I added in more timing the car wouldn't make any more power...

I'm in the process or moving the gate onto the manifold from the turbo housing.. hopefully should see less back pressure and allow me to dial in more timing.

FWIW I put in an additional 6 degrees of timing and it only netted 327kW, I pulled back 3 degrees and it made 325kW @1.6bar boost.

I have seen 430+ a few times on the factory manifold with the gate off the housing. Welding it off the manifold could work well if you can get in and die grind it afterwards. I doubt you will see much in the way of gains between them.

No need for stabilizer with pump e85, I have been on Caltex/United e85 for 6 odd years without running a stabilizer and never cleaned my filters or injectors.

Watch your timing, I much prefer more boost and less timing as you previously mentioned Johnny.

The VP racing fuels E85 additive is claimed to do similar and also provide lube to the engine.

I'm considering welding my internal gate shut on my ATR45 in the coming months when I got for an E85 tune, going external gate etc to see if the boost control improves (I would assume flow improves as well with a screamer) - Any thoughts on this?

You need to put a 600x300x100mm cooler on. Or adding the gate makes very little differences in power. Then add E85. This turbo maxed at 420rwkws on Hovac's C34 Stagea.

This is an Duel ball bearing ATR43G3 SAT, Not the prettiest looking. But managed 317rwkws @ 21psi, full boost hit at 3550RPM. This is the most responsive turbocharger that I've ever built so far.

fronts.JPG

Final result was 317rwkws @ 21psi P98 fuel.

power.JPG

Almost reaching 20psi by 3500RPM, Currently at 3550RPM.

boost.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting... Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898 My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors. Need some advice please. TIA
    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
×
×
  • Create New...