Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is that int. or ext. gate? Also just wanted to point out that you should probably make sure you have the right details of the date and which turbo you are testing on the run id of the graph. It will be confusing for people in future when they are looking at results throughout this thread and you are talking about 1 particular turbo but the run id lists another.

Its the same car. Both results are internally gated on P98 fuel:

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO unopened engine.

- Adaptronic​ ECU
- 1000CC ID injectors
- Factory cams, cams gears, and all manifolds.
- HyperGear ATR43SS2 Internal gated RB25 bolton Turbocharger
- JJR 3 inches turbo back exhaust with bleeder valve.
- Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump
- 4 inches induction pipe
- Split fire coil packs
- PWR 600x300x81mm intercooler
- Tuned by Trent Hewitson​, Chequered Tuning​.

I have seen 430+ a few times on the factory manifold with the gate off the housing. Welding it off the manifold could work well if you can get in and die grind it afterwards. I doubt you will see much in the way of gains between them.

No need for stabilizer with pump e85, I have been on Caltex/United e85 for 6 odd years without running a stabilizer and never cleaned my filters or injectors.

Watch your timing, I much prefer more boost and less timing as you previously mentioned Johnny.

I tried a mixture of things, first few runs pushed the SS2 (circa 2013) to 26psi, but it bled down to about 23psi.. no real difference in power, then tried a few more runs each time less boost. Seemed pretty happy at 23~24psi however no difference in power.

This is when I started adding in more timing, kept on adding more and more and more to the point where it stopped making power (however was listening for audible knock, which I couldn't hear nor see on the logs).

Pretty much ended up with the following below (timing trace through logs vs. boost).

post-22311-0-30643600-1449117761_thumb.png

It could be the tires used. If its threading on the rollers it will under read. Does it feel stronger on road with the additional timing in?

It could be the tires used. If its threading on the rollers it will under read. Does it feel stronger on road with the additional timing in?

I initially ran the car on the dyno and it made 290kW so I got my mate and the shop owner to hop in the back and it read 310kW, after that I strapped the car down fairly tight.

I am thinking there's a restriction on the hotside/exhaust as I am running a very quiet exhaust system + a cat.

I don't think it's timing related, as you can see I'm running a bucket load of timing (even the shop owner was like you're leaning too much on the timing to make power). However one thing to note, the car was running E61 as I only decided that morning to fine tune the timing map, so potentially the power shortfall could have been through diluted concentration of ethanol.

After the new year, I'll put a new manifold on from HAVOC and see what the car can make before the motor grenades itself hahahaha

Put ATR45SAT on it when its going to Havoc, and max that out. :D

I've remembering reading a discussion about few members whom are chasing my results. First of all Trent definitely does not deliberately tune a dangerous amount of timing to boost up results, he tunes it no different to any other cars. Turbocharger is nothing but a hot dryer without effective supporting mods, I will pin point few that have made a noticeable difference to my own car as some of you already seen.

1. At 3 inches metal induction pipe with a good pod filter

DSC00402.JPG

Differences VS stock:

puvsrick.jpg

2.Good front mount intercooler:

nexttotokashi.jpg303rwkwall.jpg

3. Big exhaust or add an exhaust Tee:

frontpipeopen.jpg

atr45sat351rwkwp98.jpg

Put ATR45SAT on it when its going to Havoc, and max that out. :D

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

EFR7163

EFR7163

LOL yes, but I'm not made of money and getting a turbo that's worth the cost of my entire car is idiotic!

EFRs belong on the likes of a GTR EVO Supra RX7, not some shit box R33 GTSt lol

There has been quite few upgrades to SS2 since your one was built. When sending the manifold to Havoc, send your turbo down in I will have a look to see what updates can be applied to the existing housings.

There has been quite few upgrades to SS2 since your one was built. When sending the manifold to Havoc, please send your turbo down in I will have a look to see what updates can be applied to the existing housings.

Havoc has my manifold already, but I haven't taken off the turbo yet as I still need the car for an upcoming track day.

Note that I will need a new rear housing as discussed as I'm currently running a scotty mod housing

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

I can confirm the lag on the 45 is quite high (posted my dyno graph in here somewhere earlier). I don't mind it but then again, it's not a track car. Maybe one day I'll get sick of it and go SS2 or something of the sorts.

I can confirm the lag on the 45 is quite high (posted my dyno graph in here somewhere earlier). I don't mind it but then again, it's not a track car. Maybe one day I'll get sick of it and go SS2 or something of the sorts.

I don't think your RPM vs. KM/h has been derived properly thus it looks a little more laggy than it is... Also should go E85 ASAP, with the added exhaust gas produced, you'll get the turbo on noise quicker.. look at the result posted here:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-53#entry7637416

It's all in at 4500rpm and makes a silly 365kW

Is this right Stao, or am I reading it wrong?

Depending on the turbo is working with. That reading is out of an ATR45SAT model. Yes it have made a big difference with exhaust ventilation, its almost as driving with no exhaust at WOT.

On a Rb25det Neo motor the ATR45SAT's making 20psi by 4000RPM, check to see if VCT is active, preload the actuator by an extra 2mms and see if that makes any differences.

  • Like 1

Thanks Stao, I'll give it a go - Car has RB25DET non neo not sure that they had VCT (maybe I'm wrong)

From the dyno and driving I find that it's on full boost around 4500RPM

Thanks Stao, I'll give it a go - Car has RB25DET non neo not sure that they had VCT (maybe I'm wrong)

From the dyno and driving I find that it's on full boost around 4500RPM

a little naughty, but drop your cat and run the car dump/down pipe to atmosphere (as a test) and see if it comes on earlier.. chances are your exhaust system is restrictive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...