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Maybe kind of weired questions, but what do you guys do with th bov, use stock one, block off or replace. And if you keep using them, aren't there some leaks ?

I bought a Turbosmart Kompact PB from Scotty's customs. Works a treat Stao also recommends changing stock one.

People also say you can use the GTR one

Maybe kind of weired questions, but what do you guys do with th bov, use stock one, block off or replace. And if you keep using them, aren't there some leaks ?

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

Do those earl kits suit GT30 etc turbo's or only for stock replacement? and do they have the required restrictor or is the restrictor in the turbo already?

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

Mine started to leak after around 6 months, mostly driven on low boost (284rwkw at 15psi) had to replace with a GFB plumb back and adjusted the spring tension to max. Made a massive difference. For a small amount of money I'd say its worth upgrading

delete BOV, done :)

Sounds mad too and gets the bitches - HWP may or may not love it though :P

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Disregarding the legalities behind decat, Stao on your test cases did any of them have a cat converter? I would be interested to know how the exhaust tee compares/ed to the decat - I recall talking to Johnny and he mentioned 10kw gain just by going decat IIRC.

Edited by kingtube69

Water fitting on the ATR4xx turbochargers are in M18x1.5 same as OEM.

To get full power from the ATR45SAT internally gated version. It needs to be either in a 4 inches exhaust or a 3 inches pipe with 2.5 inches tee off factory front pipe. Exhaust on and exhaust dropped makes a noticeable difference in power.

Using stock bov, nothing wrong with the GTT one at this power lever (sub 300).

mine leaked straight away at 260rwkw through a auto..it leaked so much the external wastegate didnt open..lol

still made 260rwkw at 16psi on 98 octane with a hypergear g3 and a auto

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Hi All,

Just an FYI that Stao and I came across - I tested having the boost controller hooked up between the compressor housing and the actuator and then the charge pipe and the actuator. It seems that having it on the charge pipe I can achieve greater levels of boost across the board. I.E couldn't make 1 bar in first or second gear now it makes this and peaks at 18psi in third and so on easier now.

Quoting Stao's response after my test:

This experiment means there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the cooler, so the high pressure side would be opening the gate earlier while the lower pressure side will be holding the gate shut for longer, hence the boost gain. This is a good result, you might want to mention that in corresponding threads.

Hope this helps someone else with the same turbo (ATR45SAT on RB25)

  • Like 1

mine leaked straight away at 260rwkw through a auto..it leaked so much the external wastegate didnt open..lol

still made 260rwkw at 16psi on 98 octane with a hypergear g3 and a auto

cheers

darren

Kind of weird this matters, because a decent boost controller or even better, a decent ECU, manages the boost pressure with as reference the Map sensor, so even with a boost drop over the core, the boost controller should add a bigger amount of duty cycle at the boost solenoid leading to the actually boost pressure you want to entering the engine ... IMHO

Hi All,

Just an FYI that Stao and I came across - I tested having the boost controller hooked up between the compressor housing and the actuator and then the charge pipe and the actuator. It seems that having it on the charge pipe I can achieve greater levels of boost across the board. I.E couldn't make 1 bar in first or second gear now it makes this and peaks at 18psi in third and so on easier now.

Quoting Stao's response after my test:

This experiment means there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the cooler, so the high pressure side would be opening the gate earlier while the lower pressure side will be holding the gate shut for longer, hence the boost gain. This is a good result, you might want to mention that in corresponding threads.

Hope this helps someone else with the same turbo (ATR45SAT on RB25)

Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler :laugh:.

It is best sourcing waste gate pressure after throttle body, that gets rid of the variations of cooler kit.

You mean after the intercooler but before the throttle body, ie cold side :)

Taking pressure from the plenum to control either your internal or external gate will cause issues.

Thats because the pressure differences between your cooler, helps someone with the same cooler kit maybe. Makes no differences on my truck cooler :laugh:.

Yep makes sense now I think of it. Most people run the blitz coolers (like mine) so i would hope it helps a lot of people. What cooler are you running? Pics or gtfo :P

-------------

Charge pipe pre throttle body yielded the best results for me - Boost pressure is now about where I expect it to be but still suffering pressure dropping. I'll confirm by running the boost gauge pre cooler this weekend.

Just an update, I still haven't removed my old turbo.. I am so lazy these days..

New Year's resolution, remove turbo and send back to Hypergear for an upgrade :)

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