Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes it is. The recommendation would be working with our high pressure actuator, that will cost you $990 inc oil line. That way the waste gate bunk can travel all the way to a full 90 leaving gate port wide open. Gives abit more top end .

In terms of the housings I can swap it over for you as I have a spare.

How well does the 43SAT go with the journal bearing instead of ballbearing? I want to buy one but not sure that I can quite afford the ballbearing option...or should I just save a little longer and hold out for the ballbearing option?

The sr20vet is running around 20psi keeping it safe on tracks.

Yes definitely recommended bb for the new sat turbos, does make a notice able difference to throttle response.

How much boost to make 330rwkw on the SR20VET stao?..im guessing not a lot..and theres a lot more left in it

FWD/AWD is totally different beast to RWD.

The different orientation engines don't make comparable power. Plus driveshafts/diffs/gearbox are holding that particular car back from more power.

FWD/AWD is totally different beast to RWD.

The different orientation engines don't make comparable power. Plus driveshafts/diffs/gearbox are holding that particular car back from more power.

Yep i know this..

I also could work out pretty easy its not on kill..that turbo is a 61mm ish comp with a 64mm rear..it would want to have plenty left ex gated..

Cheers

Darren

  • 2 weeks later...

ATR43SS2 making 294rwkws @ 20psi P98 fuel:

Hypergear turbo z32 afm 770cc inj power fc ecu and boost t running 20psi

Been working on few new prototypes G3SAT turbos running Hybrid ball bearing combinations lately. I think I'm hitting a wall of getting any better then 20psi @ 3550RPM without comp surge. The drive ability is great however. I might be giving it to Mr Richo and see if that improves his track times.

  • Like 2

dirty plug, but if anyone wants a stock RB20DET/25DET manifold with already 55mm extended studs fitted of which 38mm is exposed at a minimum.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463178-fs-syd-rb20det-rb25det-stock-manifold-with-extended-studs-for-hektics/

Good for Hypergear turbo upgrades :)

Some more testing and evaluation results. This is our last BB ATR43G3SAT prototype turbocharger on R34 with P98 fuel internally gated. Note the linearness in power and torque curve to 5000RPM. Turbo made 308rwkws @ 20psi.

atr43sat308rwkw.jpg

atr43sat308rwkwboost.jpg

Yes. I'm considering that. Seen few in the past few month but prefer some thing in better conditions. But need to sell at least one of my test cars first, running out of parking spaces.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...