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1 hour ago, jrm said:

I believe PWR do a return-flow intercooler for these cars too (PWR PWI2204 for R34 GTT, at least).

Does anyone know if these have the same restrictions as the Blitz, and other return-flows?

Pretty sure Tao tested this and the results weren't great. Not sure if any better than the blitz but pretty sure he concluded it was a waste of money.

Maybe, Tao can answer better 

@hypergear

  • 2 weeks later...

Following up the ATR45SS-2 test conducted last year Dec on the hottest day in Vic of the year that made 472rwkws @ 28psi running out of fuel. That test has been completed few days ago, maxed at 552rwkws @ 38psi. It seems like factory engine head is finally maxed out. 

Dyno run below consist of ATR45SS-2 V ATR45SS-1, the smaller one is a much nicer turbo to drive with plenty of power band. Will be conducting some more work with current high flow series next and see if current record can be broken. 

552rwkw.jpg

  • Like 1

I'm in a similar situation as dyl33. Looking to squeeze what I can out of a stock 25det neo, while retaining the air box/blitz return flow cooler to keep things looking stock under the bonnet and maintain as much response as possible for a daily driver.

Few quick questions before I go placing an order, just so I have an idea what I'm in for...

What is required fabrication wise for an ATR45SAT + Ball bearing upgrade? Is it a straight bolt up, and can I keep my existing HKS 3" dump?, or should I grab the dump pipe you offer with the turbo as well?

As far as other supporting mods go, I currently just have a Nistune ecu, bigger fuel pump and 3" exhaust system. Would ID1000 injectors / Z32 AFM be a good match while leaving headroom for later if I decide to go e85/ditch the return flow etc? or are there more modern alternatives?
 

Edited by self_slaughter
1 hour ago, self_slaughter said:

Would Z32 AFM

No. Absolutely not.

For a start, the turbo has a 4" inlet. The Z32 is a major restriction, which is not recommended.

Next, the Z32 is a bad choice for an AFM in the era of modern blade style AFMs. Just get an R35 and a suitable sized tube (preferably 3.5") and set it up in Nistune.

And, obviously, you should fabricate a 4" intake and do something about opening up the hole in the airbox.

The injectors are fine.

I'm willing to bet that the dump that suits the stock turbo does not suit Tao's big bolt ons.

 

 

3 hours ago, self_slaughter said:

What is required fabrication wise for an ATR45SAT + Ball bearing upgrade? Is it a straight bolt up, and can I keep my existing HKS 3" dump?, or should I grab the dump pipe you offer with the turbo as well?

As far as other supporting mods go, I currently just have a Nistune ecu, bigger fuel pump and 3" exhaust system. Would ID1000 injectors / Z32 AFM be a good match while leaving headroom for later if I decide to go e85/ditch the return flow etc? or are there more modern alternatives?

Hi, BB model has the same bolt pattern as a GT30 core with water banjo adapter and oil drain adapter supplied. It fits stock manifold and dump. For a internally gated bolt on ATR45sat we build a compact version with a 3 inches inlet, that will do around 300rwkws in usual cases on P98 fuel, and will be capable of making welling above 400rwkws once externally gated on E85. ID1000CC made on my car at 440rwkws, AFM is recommended inside the cooler piping. 

On 19/05/2020 at 7:30 PM, hypergear said:

I don't think u will see much more then 270rwkws with a Blitz return flow cooler. Fitment of it is on Video below. O nP98 fuel, Power wise G4 high flow maxed towards 300rwkws, while ATR45SAT maxed at 322rwkws.   

 

 

I'm placing an bulk order for PWR 600x300x79mm coolers at a discounted price. if any one wants them let me know. 

Hi I placed an order for a HDI GT2 and now it looks like my order can't be filled, so may be interested in 1 of these if it's not 2 late? Are they available in a kit with all the required piping and fixtures? And how much will it be?

The one in video above is a compact model with 3 inches inlet. I've used GT2 before, PWR currently on the car made more power. For cooler piping, you will need a 2 to 2.5 inches 90 degrees long let silicon hose and for intake I've used a 3 to 4 inches 45 degree hose and 4 inches metal pipe plus pod. You can find all bits and pieces from your local Autobarn stores.

 

Edited by hypergear
2 hours ago, hypergear said:

Hi, BB model has the same bolt pattern as a GT30 core with water banjo adapter and oil drain adapter supplied. It fits stock manifold and dump. For a internally gated bolt on ATR45sat we build a compact version with a 3 inches inlet, that will do around 300rwkws in usual cases on P98 fuel, and will be capable of making welling above 400rwkws once externally gated on E85. ID1000CC made on my car at 440rwkws, AFM is recommended inside the cooler piping. 

Thank you both for the help, much appreciated. ❤️

Just to be sure, this is the one to get?
image.png.52895ea73d58bfc98f72a13150575ceb.png

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, self_slaughter said:

Thank you both for the help, much appreciated. ❤️

Just to be sure, this is the one to get?
image.png.52895ea73d58bfc98f72a13150575ceb.png

Correct

8 hours ago, hypergear said:

The one in video above is a compact model with 3 inches inlet. I've used GT2 before, PWR currently on the car made more power. For cooler piping, you will need a 2 to 2.5 inches 90 degrees long let silicon hose and for intake I've used a 3 to 4 inches 45 degree hose and 4 inches metal pipe plus pod. You can find all bits and pieces from your local Autobarn stores.

 

Ok sounds good when will they be available? Can u please either pm or reply here with the details  price etc. Thanks.

You can run the stock air box with the Hypergear ATR45, just need a good fabricator.

And for the love of god, please don't use a Z32. Run a R35 AFM post cooler if you're intending to sick with Nistune. Not to mention, running post cooler gives you the added benefit of actually capturing true mass air flow once it has been chilled. Also means you can run a BOV, or no BOV without having issues.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/7/2020 at 9:17 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can run the stock air box with the Hypergear ATR45, just need a good fabricator.

And for the love of god, please don't use a Z32. Run a R35 AFM post cooler if you're intending to sick with Nistune. Not to mention, running post cooler gives you the added benefit of actually capturing true mass air flow once it has been chilled. Also means you can run a BOV, or no BOV without having issues.

Pretty good advice. I've got atr43, z32 afm, nistune, blitz return flow, 320rwkw and having stalling issues due to the afm. I've heard people say move the afm on the throttle body side of the intercooler piping, seems like you guys are suggesting the same thing.

I've heard to move the afm just a bit before the throttle body, and ive also been told to move it down lower, on the intercooler piping underneath the car/next to the intercooler. Not sure which one i should try, any suggestions?

5 hours ago, R34NeoLover said:

On the intercooler piping underneath the car/next to the intercooler. Not sure which one i should try, any suggestions?

This is the best spot.

15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This is the best spot.

Ah beautiful thank you. Also we found on the exhaust manifold, #6 was leaking air, also had a leak where the turbo exhaust housing connects to the dump pipe, getting all that sorted out soon, should hopefully spool up quicker and possibly make more power. 320rwkw with exhaust leaks from an atr43 is pretty good imo, definitely rate these turbos as fantastic value for money.

Hey I've been looking to upgrade my current turbo which is a GT2860RS on my S15 and I have a couple of questions.

What's the difference between the ATR28 and then ATR28SS turbos?

Do they flutter well? I'm pretty sure my turbo has an anti-surge housing so it doesn't right now but I kinda miss my stock turbo flutter. Not a deal breaker if it doesn't.

Does the 28 number indicate the frame size, similar to the Garrett GT28 series? My friend told me since I'm tuned to a GT2860RS I can just replace it with a GTX2867R or something without a retune and run it without a problem if I don't change any boost settings but it won't be as efficient as it could be. I'm not sure if this is even true in the first place but I'm wondering if I could do something similar with the ATR28/SS. I would eventually tune it but I'm looking to freshen up the head with a valve springs kit, retainers, new VCT, etc first. I don't drive my car very hard either, I probably hit 5.5k rpm maybe once a twice a week.

Edited by driftspec15
On 18/06/2020 at 9:27 PM, driftspec15 said:

Hey I've been looking to upgrade my current turbo which is a GT2860RS on my S15 and I have a couple of questions.

What's the difference between the ATR28 and then ATR28SS turbos?

Hi. ATR28 has standard cast wheels while the SS series has billet front wheels, SS class is also under rapid updates for better power and response. ATR28SS15 would be something similar to a GTX2867R, made 280rwkws P98 fuel internally gated on a built SR20det with 272/12 cams and very responsive to drive. 

12 hours ago, hypergear said:

Hi. ATR28 has standard cast wheels while the SS series has billet front wheels, SS class is also under rapid updates for better power and response. ATR28SS15 would be something similar to a GTX2867R, made 280rwkws P98 fuel internally gated on a built SR20det with 272/12 cams and very responsive to drive. 

Yeah I was thinking of getting the SS1.5 as I’m probably aiming for at least 300kw when I eventually go on E85.  
Do you have any idea about my last question?

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