Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

price was about $1000-1100 the one on his car atm it a IG version with no port for EXTERNAL WASTEGATE

but he is talking to brae atm about getting some prices and designs for a external wastegate version

my one cost $1150, I'm inquiring for a quantity of 10 at once to get the price down. Even with discount it is still too expansive for most people to accept.

Yeah I'm tossing up on whether to get a new manifold or not. I know it will help but its a bit of money for a decent one. The 6boost ones were my pick so far but open to other ideas :)

lol

Did you end up getting your Dyno fixed? I got a big chunk of Kia sportage here that I'm sending down for dyno tuning.

Have a loan controller coming over from NZ as we speak (so maybe 3 more days till we are back on the go).

New controller is still 3 weeks away.

Stao, is SS2 meant to have a spacer plate? Just saw your updated DIY fitting instructions and there is no mention of it but it's in the photo. Is it only for G3 or SS2 aswell? No mention on page 1 in the ads for the turbo

no need for spacer, The spacers on the test car was made for turbos with larger comp housings.

There are 2 more Billet SS2 prototypes that should out perform the current SS2 on certain areas, just waiting for Trent's dyno to be running and have them tested, of course you are welcome to send the old version back for the latest update assume the prototypes did out perform the current version.

no need for spacer, The spacers on the test car was made for turbos with larger comp housings.

I sat it on the manifold to see how it looks and noticed the compressor housing rests against the manifold heat shield so I was just a bit worried the outlet hose may get too hot. I can always slip a small spacer in next week or so before putting the engine back in

I'll have a better look tomorrow and get back to you. Cheers Stao

Most bigger turbo upgrades require cutting out the heat shield to allow for that slight bit of room

Most bigger turbo upgrades require cutting out the heat shield to allow for that slight bit of room

Yeah that's the other option. Prob wouldnt need to cut it up much either. Or heat wrap if it's too close

Here is the link to Brae's manifolds:

http://www.braeautofab.com/

And you can get the RB bolton manifold for $1100, it requires some of fabrications to fit, not a big deal. but ask him to have a external gate port made just in case external gate might be installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My son saw this Porsche 904 in Yodoyabashi in Osaka, not sure if it's the plastic or fibreglass version 767605763.559358.mp4
    • I agree re not trusting it as it makes mistakes however can do hours of research for you at times by simply asking a question
    • The I've done a lot of research and feel like I'm becoming a nut and washer expert. The washer in question doesn’t look very conical—it’s almost flat, but one side has a chamfer. The guide's picture shows the convex side (chamfered side) facing the nut, but the text says the chamfer should face the pulley, which is confusing. If I follow the picture, the chamfer faces the nut, but the instructions say the opposite. When I place the washer on a flat surface, one side looks flatter—maybe that's the concave side—so I would expect the chamfer to be on that side. But it isn’t, which adds to the confusion. The term chamfer is also throwing me off. I always thought the concave side should face the pulley, and the convex side (with the chamfer) should face the nut or bolt head. But Nissan’s instructions say the chamfer should face the pulley, which seems backward. I know I’m probably overthinking it, but I want to be sure I’m doing it right. Also, I’ve seen some people replace the nut and stud with a bolt, but I assume that’s not a good idea, since it might not keep proper tension on the tensioner. Lastly, just to be 100% sure: the pressure washer should face the pulley, then the conical washer? That feels strange, since usually the pressure washer goes first, facing the bolt or nut.
    • I checked, i dont think it was the indicator stalk. The problem just magically fixed itself though. 
    • H1 is not the Humvee, but is the most road based version. Lachlan (HankScorpio) on here has a proper Humvee. He imported it a few years back.
×
×
  • Create New...