Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Integrating new ideas into ball bearing CHRAs, it is to increasing bearing speed and reducing oil drag. Prototype went in working with a SS4 turbocharger, took over a minute to shut down after engine is powered off from idle. Drives pretty good, dyno tuning tomorrow.

  • Like 1

Alrighty, part where everyone gets excited..

Details:

  • Hypergear SS2
  • 45mm Turbosmart External Gate off Housing (thanks scotty_mn35)
  • E85
  • 1.6bar boost, made more power on 1.5bar
  • IAT shot up to 50 degrees, subsequently lost 3 degrees of timing (I take 1 degree off every 5 degrees above 35)
  • Stock motor
  • Stock manifold, stock plenum

Timing Map:

attachicon.gifFridge Dyno Run Timing.png

Dyno Reading at Power Tune:

attachicon.gifFridge Dyno Run.png

Virtual Dyno Reading (Using Log File on the same run at Power Tune):

attachicon.gifDyno Run - Virtual Dyno.png

Hey John,

was wondering...that torque figure is MASSIVE do you think its accurate?

Hey John,

was wondering...that torque figure is MASSIVE do you think its accurate?

I have noticed some big torque gains with my gate off the housing setup, enough to max Trent's hub dyno recently, putting it into emergency shutdown. lol. Power graphs only show so much, and torque graphs can't really be compared between dynos... Unfortunate.

Yeah considering how much torque changed based on gearing and wheel size it's not really a useful number.

even today someone told me his XR6 turbo made 1100nm at the wheels bro! yeah sick mate I'm sure it does next time don't use 2nd gear

no idea, but I know it's not tractive effort..

It's pretty close I'd say as based of hp = ftlb @ 5250

And at about that rpm he has around 280ish rwkw so 375 or so hp, and 375 ftlb is around 510nm and that's pretty much what he has there. So I'd say the torque figure is pretty much correct

Yeah considering how much torque changed based on gearing and wheel size it's not really a useful number.

even today someone told me his XR6 turbo made 1100nm at the wheels bro! yeah sick mate I'm sure it does next time don't use 2nd gear

Don't underestimate what a 4L Turbo can make.

  • Like 1

Oh ooooh.....I think my turbo just went pop.

Stao, do you offer a drive in drive out turbo changeover service? If so, what am I looking at for an SS3 changeover into a c34 Stagea? No tune at this stage. I'll basically get a new turbo then park it up till I get injectors and get it all tuned together.

Edited by Cowboy1600

Yep, internal gate in factory position.

I want to eventually shoot for the magical 300 at the treads figure. It's not my daily so doesn't have to be the nicest thing on the road. From what I understand the SS2 will do it on E85, but I'm not sure I'll ever go E85 so I need the size of the SS3.

Happy to be corrected if this isn't the case.

There is a restriction on stock exhaust manifold, so for a standard engine running around 19psi, they usually sit around the 280rwkws figure, unless more boost is added. SS2 would be pretty nice to drive while hitting that target, SS3 is best performed externally gated, and is roughly 250RPM laggier hitting 20psi about 4100RPM. Fitting it to stock manifold running internal gate, its result would be very similar to a SS2.

And uploading one more result, It is sent in from a form member, based on a R33 GTST stock Rb25det with the usual mods. Final result of 263rwkws on 17psi.

Good thing about it is this car was dyno tuned at Trents few month before the high flowed turbocharger was installed. This is a comparison between factory 2IU turbo V been high flowed.

263rwkw21uhf.jpg

Hmmm....perhaps I'll settle for the SS2. I can always go the E85 path later if I reaaaaally want to hit the 300 mark.

Can you give me a price on a drive in/drive out SS2?

We only do engineering related work, when collecting the turbo I can direct you to a good mechanic whom might be close to your area.

Related, but not.

Just an fyi.

I moved my engine to another shell.

I run e85, had massive problems getting the engine running correctly.

Got the injectors checked/cleaned the other day.

2 were completely blocked with the rest being partially blocked.

Have not put it back together to test but im pretty sure thats the problem.

If anyone has major missfire over all cylinders and run 85, injectors are probably blocked, its not your turbo :P

Related, but not.

Just an fyi.

I moved my engine to another shell.

I run e85, had massive problems getting the engine running correctly.

Got the injectors checked/cleaned the other day.

2 were completely blocked with the rest being partially blocked.

Have not put it back together to test but im pretty sure thats the problem.

If anyone has major missfire over all cylinders and run 85, injectors are probably blocked, its not your turbo :P

What injectors?

Some result from Today. upgraded to a Walbro 470L/H fuel pump and EBC fitted. made 383rwkws at 21psi. This is using a prototype .82 Alpha turbine housing with a ATR45 (3582 equivalent CHRA) which seems to work pretty well that matched the same response as to a VCT Rb25det motor.

Final result compare to a GT3582R in .82 turbine on a GTR 32 (E85), and a GTST R33 using the same turbo (P98 fuel).

393rwkwpower.jpg

boost.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...