Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this isn't the place for this question, but this is as good of a time as any to ask it....

I don't understand the point of "corrections" on a dyno. The car makes X power. End of story. It made a specific figure, why should that be altered "just because"?

It sounds similar to someone trying to give you the temperature, but adding on (or subtracting as the case would be) wind-chill. That isn't accurate, and shouldn't be counted.

Same goes for different corrections for 4 cyl, 6 cyl turbo, 8 cyl, etc. WTF?

its good, but only the second Dyno graph which the boost is set at 24psi! Im looking for a Turbo like this one, but only pushing out 15-17psi, 200rwkw at 4Krpm 260rwkw max.

thats this one but i dont want to be putting 24psi to be making it.

At this stage the ATR43SS-1 is the only turbo managed to hit 205rwkws on 4000RPMs based on 9 sec ramp timing on Status dyno (with stock setup, 98 fuel, etc etc).

You can run a larger turbo with less boost on 12 or 14 sec ramp timing to get similar result, but that doesn't necessarily represent it on every day road.

With 17psi using a boost controller it should hit the 180~190rwkws mark at 4000RPMs.

The only reasons why "high" boost will break a motor is from either the turbo being out of efficiency hence detonation from higher charge temps, or because it's simply too much power.

Yeah psi isn't what kills a motor, its torque figures (combustion pressure) and temperature (intake charge temp due to compressor being out of efficiency). Then the usuals like detonation, running lean etc.

Next up the ATR43G3 Alfa version. With Duel ceramic ball bearing and penta nozzled FNT turbine housing. Unlike traditional ball bearing cartridges this one runs a splashed oil delivery setup instead of concealed force feeding setup. This is unlikely to suffer from minor oil contamination related issues. Will be testing next weeks and hopefully every thing go according to plan.

This is also the very first penta (5) nozzed FNT turbine housing, should produce more down low torque with better mid range.

Short video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0tBzdAqQBM

I would like to see the differences that additional nozzles makes. FNT nozzles swirls the air as it enters the turbine housing, but too many of it can cause flow restrictions. Note how the turbo spooled with just bit of air shoot through the turbine inlet, I could not get this effect with traditional turbine housings. I’ve been waiting to see this with the effects of ball bearing rolling objects.

I know this isn't the place for this question, but this is as good of a time as any to ask it....

I don't understand the point of "corrections" on a dyno. The car makes X power. End of story. It made a specific figure, why should that be altered "just because"?

It sounds similar to someone trying to give you the temperature, but adding on (or subtracting as the case would be) wind-chill. That isn't accurate, and shouldn't be counted.

Same goes for different corrections for 4 cyl, 6 cyl turbo, 8 cyl, etc. WTF?

the correction is included (you can elect not to use it, ie non shootout mode)

on the dyno runs to standarise the measurement

so if you dyno a skyline in australia on a 20deg day at whatever sea level pressure

then dyno the same skyline in dubai with 48deg day on whatever sea level pressure

you can accurately compare the two

otherwise without the correction the one in dubai would be well off due to the excessive intake temp

the correction is included (you can elect not to use it, ie non shootout mode)

on the dyno runs to standarise the measurement

so if you dyno a skyline in australia on a 20deg day at whatever sea level pressure

then dyno the same skyline in dubai with 48deg day on whatever sea level pressure

you can accurately compare the two

otherwise without the correction the one in dubai would be well off due to the excessive intake temp

I'd figured it was about this, but what shits me about it is POWER IS POWER. There's no point in saying "this is how much power it WOULD have made given different intake temp etc". It's just stupid. It made a certain power. End of story. You could have a correction that could potentially make it have +50% of the power it actually made. In that case there's no point even showing a power figure, as the dyno is good for nothing but a stationary way to load the engine for tuning.

Sorry just a rant, there are many things in this world that are just f**king stupid lol

but its there to normalise the results

so that if you dyno your car in darwin in summer and make whatever rwkw

and you compare it to another skyline with the same turbo in winter in tasmania

that way with correction you both make roughly the same power

if all things are equal and both engines ie are the same etc

without correction

he makes tons more

you make tons less

and you think his is either super quick

or yours is super slow

I'd figured it was about this, but what shits me about it is POWER IS POWER. There's no point in saying "this is how much power it WOULD have made given different intake temp etc". It's just stupid. It made a certain power. End of story. You could have a correction that could potentially make it have +50% of the power it actually made. In that case there's no point even showing a power figure, as the dyno is good for nothing but a stationary way to load the engine for tuning.

Sorry just a rant, there are many things in this world that are just f**king stupid lol

It's purely to allow comparisons. That's it.

That and for if you drive your car from Darwin to Tasmania that you don't crack the shits you "lost 50RWKW"

In reality you might be up or down power elsewhere at that single point in time, but if you hold intake temp constant along with the pressure and humidity, you will make the same power no matter where you are.

Got the ATR43G3 Alfa model installed today. Took short video footage of it on car during idle and switch off:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0tBzdAqQBM

I'm still running the 265rwkws tune from SS-1. Its obviously not as responsive but pulled lot harder up top, I'm expecting it to perform similar to ATR43G3 with better down low and mid range. will post results once finished.

Also stock exhaust manifold doesn't seems capable of flowing 330rwkws+ regardless the difference in size of turbo. This turbo going by specifications should crack 550HP. Will consider to upgrade manifold soon. Or send in a pm if any one’s got a good conditioned custom low mount for sale.

To build it brand new from scratch will cost $1560 inc GST, takes roughly 3 days to complete. Couple of manufacturing steps involved and many man hours required. I've pmed you an offer for the one that came out of my test car. please check and reply if interested. Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...