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  • 10 years later...

if you've got plans for reasonably high power its worth going the 1000.. the 750hp damper is a 5.5" model so for me the recommended rebuild schedule make the 1000hp model a more attractive proposition for an engine making reasonable power.

 you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it.

rebuild information from ATI's manual: http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf

 

Recommended Maintenance Schedules For street and drag race motors and dampers greater than 5.5":

up to 800 HP: damper should be rebuilt every 10 years

Above 800 HP, Blown or Nitrous racing:  damper should be rebuilt annually

Circle Track / Endurance: dampers should be rebuilt during each engine rebuild

 

For 5.5" dampers:

400 HP rebuild every 5 years •

400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years •

600+ HP rebuild every year

Edited by burn4005
35 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

 you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it.

Out of interest, what RPM does everyone set theirs to? I can't actually recall ever finding out what the factory setting is and subtracting 25% from it. Need to set it up on mine properly, currently rely on the 'don't get on it with the ac on' method

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/4/2019 at 1:06 PM, burn4005 said:

For 5.5" dampers:

400 HP rebuild every 5 years •

400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years •

600+ HP rebuild every year

How crucial is this rebuild schedule though and how hard/expensive is it to do? Surely people aren't rebuilding their balancers if they drive the car on weekends etc

On 04/09/2019 at 9:45 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

Mine is at, 4500rpm or 75% tps with 4 second reactivation time

I'm also curious what others are running and why they chose those settings. 

Mine's about the same, but I've popped in about 3 degrees extra timing into the zero throttle demand table.

It still is always about to stall on engagement, I think the IACV (even with an additional 15% base DC) may be a bit slow to react to the sudden changes OR my AC compressor is cactus, because there's a massive strain each time it comes on.

This thread has a bit more recent info on both Ross and ATI, there are tuners using both, namely PMC race engines use ATI, and CRD (croydon racing dev. in sydney) use Ross

Ross have recently re-designed (Rel. Jul 2019) their balancers to have an integrated crank trigger which also allows them to have a larger dampening surface for their balancers.  Their base model is now rated to 800hp, up from 600 i believe.  I have their older base metal jacket version installed on my 300kw RB26, i believe correct installation per application is important to the longevity of these balancers.

ATI's are USA made and can be rebuilt by anyone with a modular cartridge, and Ross are made in Aus and will need to be sent back to their base in VIC to be rebuilt.

 

 

On 9/19/2019 at 9:39 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

How crucial is this rebuild schedule though and how hard/expensive is it to do? Surely people aren't rebuilding their balancers if they drive the car on weekends etc

The elastomer o'rings should be replaced every 10 years if its mainly street.

If you are in the states it only costs $75 to overhaul and re-certify SFI .

I'm not so just bought an overhaul kit (~$35) and did it myself.

Fairly basic job, cleanliness and care with orings during assembly is all that is required . Blue loctite on bolts and correct torque.

  • Like 2
On 9/23/2019 at 8:31 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Yeah car will be 90% street at around 300-350kw so a rebuild every 2 years seem excessive. Have you got a link to rebuild instructions? 

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/rebuilding-atis-super-damper-is-super-economical/

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