Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all...went to eastern creek the other night...got excited and somehow broke 3rd gear and now the box needs fixing.

question is...who have you guys gone to and recommend??

also who wouldnt you recommend.

ive been recommended so far by bel garage to go to diff and gears in smithfield.

let me know..also what will it cost to fix approximately??

its a r34gtt gearbox

thanks in advance..

constructive cricism or nothing...anyways...i thought it was unbreakable.

note to others dont quickshift from 2nd at 8000rpm.

presuming you meant criticism? and i wasn't criticising or poking fun at you man, chillax

Good luck with fixing your gearbox

if it turns out to be 2 expensive to fix the current box, why not get a R34 GTR box, or would that be well out of your budget?

Award Diff & Gearbox Services

1/18 Anvil Road, Seven Hills, NSW 2147

p: (02) 9624 6600 f: (02) 9624 6666

Nice guys to deal with, and definitely knows thier stuff oh and prices are good too.

Cheers,

Johno

rb25 boxes are far from unbreakable

it all depends on what clutch your using

for reference I broke 2 rb25 boxes in 2 track days before going for a straight cut gearset

that was only with 300rwkw

presuming you meant criticism? and i wasn't criticising or poking fun at you man, chillax

Good luck with fixing your gearbox

if it turns out to be 2 expensive to fix the current box, why not get a R34 GTR box, or would that be well out of your budget?

well ive been quoted so far $1500 to fix 3rd gear remove/install...is that about the right price???

also ive got a jim berry custom 6 puck carbotics clutch...its a great clutch..obviously good enough to break the box without any slip!

thanks alot for these businss recommendations.

also just on that gtr gearbox note...what are they worth second hand?

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline
well ive been quoted so far $1500 to fix 3rd gear remove/install...is that about the right price???

also ive got a jim berry custom 6 puck carbotics clutch...its a great clutch..obviously good enough to break the box without any slip!

thanks alot for these businss recommendations.

also just on that gtr gearbox note...what are they worth second hand?

Cant see you spending any less then 3.5k-4k I'm afraid, good boxes - 1500 to fix the box!! dayum, im sure you could fork out another 500 and get a whole new box with less KM's! - someone with more experience in this department please correct me on my numbers etc if needed!

Keep us posted man

Cant see you spending any less then 3.5k-4k I'm afraid, good boxes - 1500 to fix the box!! dayum, im sure you could fork out another 500 and get a whole new box with less KM's! - someone with more experience in this department please correct me on my numbers etc if needed!

Keep us posted man

On the right track Aron, but if your price included labour aswell then yeah i'd go the new recond box, if it doesn't then i'd go for just fixing 3rd gear. But i fear this problem isn't going to just be solved by a new box or fixing 3rd.

Either way though, its happened once, it can happen again with a rebild or a new box, off memory the car in question is pushing out some serious numbers at the wheels (or is estimated to be quite the animal).... it all comes down to how much you can afford. Ofcorse its safer to over kill things like the clutch and the transmission, but then all your doing is transfering more stress to other parts of the car so something else down the line "could" give way... eg: the axel or something.

If you want it done properly, do everything thats associated with the drive train, make it as much bullet proof as you can. Or if money is a bit of an issue like it is for most of us and your seriously looking at keeping the car for a long time, do it slowly over a period of time, throw in the gtr box, put a crazy clutch in it, replace everything that is getting beaten by the massive amount of stress caused by traction and power, do it slowly, or do it when things start to fail. Replacing the box with a standard gtt or a rebuilt 3rd gear is honestly only a temporary fix, the temporary fix could last one massive thrash, or it could go on for 10 years without a problem, its your gamble and your choice, all comes down to money in the end...

On the right track Aron, but if your price included labour aswell then yeah i'd go the new recond box, if it doesn't then i'd go for just fixing 3rd gear. But i fear this problem isn't going to just be solved by a new box or fixing 3rd.

Either way though, its happened once, it can happen again with a rebild or a new box, off memory the car in question is pushing out some serious numbers at the wheels (or is estimated to be quite the animal).... it all comes down to how much you can afford. Ofcorse its safer to over kill things like the clutch and the transmission, but then all your doing is transfering more stress to other parts of the car so something else down the line "could" give way... eg: the axel or something.

If you want it done properly, do everything thats associated with the drive train, make it as much bullet proof as you can. Or if money is a bit of an issue like it is for most of us and your seriously looking at keeping the car for a long time, do it slowly over a period of time, throw in the gtr box, put a crazy clutch in it, replace everything that is getting beaten by the massive amount of stress caused by traction and power, do it slowly, or do it when things start to fail. Replacing the box with a standard gtt or a rebuilt 3rd gear is honestly only a temporary fix, the temporary fix could last one massive thrash, or it could go on for 10 years without a problem, its your gamble and your choice, all comes down to money in the end...

i see where your both coming from, i think it was more due to my neglegence and slamming my gear in like a lunatic, yess the 34gtt is now pushing out double its standard power so i im guessing its double the strain, i am going to try and find a gtr box and if i cant then ill just have to go with 3rd gear rebuild and hope for the best as this 34 has already left a massive dent in my pocket trying to get it this fast.

i genuinely appreciate your feedback and please dont hestitate continuing doing so.

Bass

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline
i see where your both coming from, i think it was more due to my neglegence and slamming my gear in like a lunatic, yess the 34gtt is now pushing out double its standard power so i im guessing its double the strain, i am going to try and find a gtr box and if i cant then ill just have to go with 3rd gear rebuild and hope for the best as this 34 has already left a massive dent in my pocket trying to get it this fast.

i genuinely appreciate your feedback and please dont hestitate continuing doing so.

Bass

Hey you never know, you might be able to get away with a rebuild of 3rd, probably treat the r34 a little nicer lol, and it should still kick some serious ass, with trannys and drive trains its more the sudden shock that stuffs them up,

I have 2 examples, one is car related and the other isn't:

The mine trains/coal trains ect.... are massively long 6 diesel engines strong pulling 1000's of tonnes of material, did you know most of their trains never actually completely stop mooving? They have figured that because there is such a strain on the linkage parts that connect the caridges together that when they accelerate from a stand still this would weaken the links and cariges would need to be repaired more often, essential drive gears near the engines would sometimes get ripped apart because of the massive load they were carrying, so they worked out that having the trains constantly moving would put less stress on the links ect.... there fore it dint ave as much maintenance...

Another example are drag racers.... if you learn how to take off by using the hand brake you won't get a sudden jolt while the gears and rest of the drive train link up, i know of people on this forum who have stupid amounts of horse power with near standard drive trains (usually just clutch upgrades to stop slippage) launching their cars all night long at eastern creek on wednesday nights, they don;t have any problems when they launch like that.

Actually though of another one thats not really related, "its not speed that kills, its the sudden stop that kills" lol.

Nah but seriously if you are slamming the clutch out uber quickly, the chance of a ripped gear increases allot, practice your shifts and hopefully it will end up saving you money in the long run.... unless you slip off the clutch pedal that can happen and then your up shit creek again. hope that helps

  • 4 years later...
  • 5 months later...

Don't mean to bring up an old thread but I have recently done the same thing - smashed 3rd gear into little pieces lol

Was wondering what OP ended up doing?

I was also looking at just replacing with a brand new box, but am now starting to think an upgraded gearset may be the better option. I think my gear destruction was mostly driver error, smashed after a 'hard' clutch kick at Wakefield.

Same, looking for a good place that can look at a 350z gearbox. 5 gear crunches shifting up from fourth at any rpm above 2K (eg. you can hold the clutch down & shift slowly to let the revs drop under 2k before shifting & it won't crunch.)

It doesn't crunch at all shifting down from 6th to 5th.

Tried changing the oil to a better grade to see if that would help but no difference. It's probably the synchro but need to know if it's something where the whole box would need to be reco'd

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...