Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mechanic was insistent that it would work better with the clutch I'm getting. So I just told him to go for it.

I was going to get one anyway. Less drivetrain loss :)

Car is predominantly a daily, but used for hill climbs and track days too.

Trying to get a good balance between looks, performance and practicality/reliability.

flywheel is a waste of money

I dunno, didn't really like the feel of my Exedy HD, so thought the cushion might be a good change. Spur of the moment thing :P

haha the cushion button isnt all that good for daily driving :P

takes a bit of getting used to, Kris drove my old 32 with the cushion button and even he said was hard

took alot of abuse though, and only died when one of the springs popped out of the centre part, apparently its a common issue on them

Haha good call. He's actually not making money off the clutch. That's the price that his wholesaler gave him. It's a bloody good clutch though. Definitely overkill for what I need but meh :P

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

I run an exedy lightened wheel in mine, with a 5 puk. Love it.

Fantastic for track work. Doesn't get driven on the street a whole lot, but when it does its a ball.

To be honest I didn't notice the difference between gears, there is a definite pickup in revs while while under load though.

leigh fix coilpacks and then check it, if the coilpacks misfire i wouldnt bother trying anything else. Where do u live? Do u want me to check it

yeah i'll wack coilpacks in first and see how it goes. I live near Knox but yeh will see how the new coilpacks go first

HDCB's are terrible for taking constant abuse (like a full track day). The centre and the ceramic are attached so you can't rebuild them modularly when they wear out, they suck for daily driving and are no more durable than a regular HD.

basically HDCB's are for people who want to feel like they're using a brass button without any of the durability or benefits.

You either buy an HD which is cheap to maintain, gives good grip and slips enough to daily drive, or you get your balls in a bunch and buy a brass button. HDCB is for fags.

Heavy flywheel + snappy clutch = good

Light flywheel + snappy clutch = shockloaded drivetrain

this.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...