Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 6/3/2021 at 6:34 AM, reaper said:

It wasn't about gains for me just the added strength. We didn't push it any harder however with double the deck thickness its worth doing.

Downside is the extra weight and it takes a bunch more machining.

Mine isn't sleeved, isn't needed. Just vanilla nitto 3.2 stroker in it.

Do they actually sleeve rd's

I thought once they do they it affects head clamping again? 

1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

At what point do you just bite the bullet and go billet? Round and round you go.

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, ido09s said:

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

Also don't forget The external oil pump kit you need (wet or dry is up to you)

6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Was talking to Herman at gtr fest and any block that has been sleeved he automatically condemns it 

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

Because you make the bore behind the sleeve thinner, the cast bore ends up cracking which give no support behind the sleeve and then it ends up cracking 

or if you go for the big sleeves with the flange on top you take the complete bore out and a lot of the deck which then take all of the integrity out of the deck and the deck cracks 

  • Like 1
18 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Also don't forget The external oil pump kit you need (wet or dry is up to you)

Anthony at Dahtone has one  running a Tomei pump that to now hasn't had any issues and its making over 1000hp though hasn't been pushed just yet ;)

2 hours ago, ido09s said:

Anthony at Dahtone has one  running a Tomei pump that to now hasn't had any issues and its making over 1000hp though hasn't been pushed just yet ;)

I’m going off what both pmc engines and bullet themselves say 

1 minute ago, r32-25t said:

I’m going off what both pmc engines and bullet themselves say 

I don't believe too many know Anthony has done it yet but he has and its all going well so far. Time will tell though if it stays together or not. Be good if it does

I have seen photos of the engine you’re talking about, but if the guy who builds more of them then anyone else and the manufacturer of the part says not to use it, that a good enough reason for me not to use it. 

  • Like 1
On 05/06/2021 at 9:21 PM, ido09s said:

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

6 hours ago, reaper said:

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

I was talking to the owner of the r32 gtr with the plates “billet” he has a 2.8 in a billet block making 1150hp at the wheels and regularly drives it on the street and has done 40 plus passes (best being a 9.0 at 160+mph) and he says it’s never been an issue and he drives it in stop/start traffic and the lot.
 

What he did say is he changes his oil pretty regularly and makes sure the oil is up to 80° before he drives it and apart from that it’s no different to having a cast block 

11 hours ago, reaper said:

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

Peter at PMC has built quite a few billet engines that are in street cars and he reckons they are fine. 

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

How often is “pretty regularly” with oil changes?

He said 300-500kms now that could be over kill but honestly that’s probably about 6 months worth of kms for me which is how often I change it in the gtr anyway 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...