Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rather than making a new tool thread, any comments on this for getting off flywheel bolts? Would it be up to it? $169 on sale for jap made rattle gun, 425ft/lb (so about 575nm?). The $40 supercrap ones are 310nm....

transquip link

should be fine Adam - as long as you have the air pressure for it

there is a tool out there, but i cant find the name - its has a 3/4 inch fitting for a socket with a small arm attached to a swivelling long arm

you hit the long arm with it setup like an L so the down force from the hammer blow cracks the nut.

if i find it i'll post up

For flywheel bolts I've always just used a 1/2 inch breaking bar and socket...

How did you hold the crank still? With a rattle gun i can just ignore that issue. And its a good excuse for buying new toys!

Hey, you guys might be able to answer me.

Cylinder hones, whats better the flexible ones (with all the abrasive balls) or the ones with 3 straight stones.

Ive used the 3 stone ones before with pretty good success but never tried the flexi ones.

Cheers

How did you hold the crank still? With a rattle gun i can just ignore that issue. And its a good excuse for buying new toys!

You can get a tool that bolts onto two of the bell housing spots, and it locks into the flywheel.

I believe the Volkswagen one fits.

I also just had some piece of steel around that fitted the above job perfectly.

Hey, you guys might be able to answer me.

Cylinder hones, whats better the flexible ones (with all the abrasive balls) or the ones with 3 straight stones.

Ive used the 3 stone ones before with pretty good success but never tried the flexi ones.

Cheers

3 stone hone will take alot more of the bore out

ball hone is just to de-glaze the bore or to remove surface rust if oil ran away from one bit

should be fine Adam - as long as you have the air pressure for it

there is a tool out there, but i cant find the name - its has a 3/4 inch fitting for a socket with a small arm attached to a swivelling long arm

you hit the long arm with it setup like an L so the down force from the hammer blow cracks the nut.

if i find it i'll post up

You're talking about one of these; right? post-61153-0-84460800-1307628247_thumb.jpg Sidchrome Impact bar. Only ever seen 1/2" drive though.

Features

  • • Creates impact to shock frozen nuts loose
  • • 8 x torque multiplication with a single hammer blow
  • • No compressed air required
    I have one; Best. Tool. Ever. Well, except for ratcheting ring spanners...
    Link to sales; http://www2.blackwoo...04738&P=2028222

Edited by Daleo

Features

  • • Creates impact to shock frozen nuts loose
  • • 8 x torque multiplication with a single hammer blow
  • • No compressed air required
    I have one; Best. Tool. Ever. Well, except for ratcheting ring spanners...
    Link to sales; http://www2.blackwoo...04738&P=2028222

DO WANT! How much? I didn't see a price on the blackwoods link.

DO WANT! How much? I didn't see a price on the blackwoods link.

Sorry mate, missed the query...:blush: $165

Link; http://www.getprice....6--44917348.htm

You might do better, but at least an indication.

Cheers, Dale

Edited by Daleo
  • 3 weeks later...

Ill try and keep this thread alive!

Picked up this set to replace my lost 3/8" repco gear..

IMG_0199.jpg?t=1309686078

Love the deep sockets :) Got it off ebay for a decent price but one of the ratchets is faulty!!! would i be able to swap this over at bunnings? pain in the ass sending it back to the seller...

Also picked up a new tool bag the Veto pro pac xxl-f :) from http://www.thetoolbloke.com.au/

veto-pro-pac-xxl-f-closed.jpg

IMG_0237.jpg

Next on the list is some ratchet spanners! not sure if i should go the flex head or the standard reversible fixed type.

  • 1 month later...

post-74990-0-42970400-1309730666_thumb.jpg

~$30 of awesome

Tie-rod end/pit-man arm puller, long gone are the frustrating hours of hammering the crap out of, prying, heating, WD-40'ing etc. Put it on, wind in the bolt, CRACK, done!

Want!

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...