Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The local cars all run series 1 doors, which are 10kg lighter than series 2 doors (no intrusion bars). For Targa you really need working windows, as your passing things in and out of them at the start and finish of the stages

It's going to be an interesting job cutting out my intrusion bars without damaging the paint. I'm thinking its about time I bought a small air cutter and using my dremel.

Really didn't do a lot of work on the car this weekend,,,just mainly cleaning shit up,,,changed these top rear arm bolts to normal bolts,,,putting the wheels back on and hoping when I got the trailer built I measured properly and Cheryl fits,,,I was very nervous,,,if she didn't fit a new trailer would have to be bought. Oh I've been using the trailer as storage so I had to un-pack it in 40 degree heat,,,I'm quessing it was 50 + in the trailer. Thankfully she fitted but only just. I now need to make some more anchor points as the Radicals ones are in the wrong place.

post-29-0-33737900-1293950315_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-10950200-1293951129_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-72507200-1293951199_thumb.jpg

Raceworx Marky has donoted me an rb25 cylinder head which has some port work done and AN fitting welded on to the rocker covers from an rb30 engine he bought. Cool,,,I now have one I can play with before dry sumping her.

post-29-0-13626900-1293952905_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-41282100-1293952950_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-35381500-1293952976_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-62148200-1293952999_thumb.jpg

post-29-0-34398200-1293953025_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

Neil, I had a quick flick through the regs for TT that were just recently posted, you're planning to run in Modern Modified Sport yes?

I'd love to take a punt at something like that, but I'm concerned about having to run the standard turbo charger... I'm not a fan of eating rear exhaust wheels... :(

Are you still going to be sticking with the stock turbo?

it only says stock turbo housing....not stock turbo. I'm sure they can get a reasonable result out of squeezing a ball bearing centre and big wheels in a standard housing.

Touche...

Reading those regs, is making me very happy to not have put the money into mine to build it back again for track work yet... There's a million things I need to change if I wanna do TT... :(

Matt,,,I have 3 choices on turbo's.

1/ Stock as a rock

2/ Stock high-flowed

3/ Cheat and use a GTT which looks the same on the outside but as you know bigger on the inside.

Think I'll go with number 2.

Yea Ryan,,,a 2nd head is very cool,,,now I have something to play with,,,and I will be playing,,,.

All this stuff is cool,,but what I actually need is the heated front screen. Richard are you reading this post.

Cheers

Neil.

Thanks heaps mate for the pics and explanation,,,will come in very handy,,,but for the life of me I still can't work out why someone went to so much trouble. Heres pics of what Duncan removed.

post-29-1290674454_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290674472_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290674482_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

Well it turns out that this harness is a factory accessory. It's part of a kit called "light reduce" that was fitted to my car in Japan. I have no idea what it does,,but its gone now.Seems Cheryl was highly optioned.

Matt,,,I have 3 choices on turbo's.

1/ Stock as a rock

2/ Stock high-flowed

3/ Cheat and use a GTT which looks the same on the outside but as you know bigger on the inside.

Think I'll go with number 2.

Yea Ryan,,,a 2nd head is very cool,,,now I have something to play with,,,and I will be playing,,,.

All this stuff is cool,,but what I actually need is the heated front screen. Richard are you reading this post.

Cheers

Neil.

to the trained eye the gtt turbo is easily picked. the exhaust housing is notcibly bigger. mainly wider there it meets the flange.

ive had experiance running stock r32 33 34 turbos and hiflow 33 and 32 turbos. the r34 turbo in stock form shits all over the r33 turbo. ive used them back to back. ive also used r32 to r33 back to back and im tempted to go back to r32 in the aplication its on.

im sure the r33 hiflow will be good but make sure you do some research on who to get to do it. not every hiflow is the same from my experiance. and throwing the biggest wheels in doesnt make for the best combination.

come to think of it i have had experiance with my team mates drift car that ran a hiflowed r33 turbo on his r33. the most they could squez out of it was 240ish on pump fuel. which can almost be achived with a stock neo turbo on an rb25 with less boost, less lag, less cost and less strain on the engine.

im sure you will get the right one but if you want some names of companies i do and dont recomend. PM me.

Neil here is all the info you should need regarding a heated screen. Quoted from a few emails, im sure if you give Del a call and speak directly with him about getting an R33 screen or two he'll be more than helpful.

if you fail to get in contact with him via the contacts there ill pass on his other details.

Here's some basic info :

These are obviously laminated, using full light green tint glass ( to current European standards ) have multiple zig zag micro wires up and down. Although you can see these, visibility is normal, they are also ear marked so legal for ADR ( Not that that matters for racing )

I'm having these made in the UK by a well known manufacturer ( Trading for 14 years ) who is contracted to a number of kit car manufactures for their screen supply, and also some popular OEM.

Costs landed will be $475 - $495 depending on exchange rates.

If I can get firm orders for more than eight of one type I could supply these for $465 irrespective of exchange rates, due to quantity pricings with the manufacturer, however at this stage there's not those quantities being ordered.

Not sure how I can assist with invoicing and GST etc yet, as I closed my business a while ago.

Should anyone be interested don't hesitate to contact me .... I will need a small deposit to secure prior to placing the order at $150.

This can be paid with either cheque, BT, or PayPal.

If I am unable to supply the screens within a given time frame ( Yours ) due to any issues out of my control i.e strikes or customs hold ups etc, and this genuinely creates a problem for you. I am happy to return you deposit in full, but if just a change of mind on your behalf happens the deposit is non refundable .... Sorry

However I'm given a manufacturing time and can only give my word on someone elses.

May also be able to supply other vehicles subject to availability but this will depend on the manufacturer having patterns for the vehicle requested. So if you have thought about it and may be interested

kindly advise and I'll see what can be done ....

Contacts : [email protected]

02 4701 6498

The delivery date is expected to be approx first week in Feb subject to any hold ups as mentioned, but unlikely as by that time things should be back to normal after the Christmas break.

I am bringing in a GTR 32 screen or three so maybe your old cars new owner may want one ? Jeff Branstrater may also have one too, but this depends on if he is able to shift his last car .... Dave Loftus is also up for one for his little Starlet IP car etc.

I am already bringing one for Geoff Fear at SSS who had the Improved Production GTR 32, but now runs a N14 which is the same as the GTi-R

Should this be up your street you are welcome to place an order for one for your GTi-R if you choose ?

If I have at least two to supply I will carry a spare but it will not be for sale once arrived but only held for anyone who has already purchased one in this order .... I feel that's a fair way to do this.

Feel free to call me if you choose as I need to secure all deposits with in 10 - 15 days from now to avoid dissapointments with delivery times promised.

I have requested a number of things from the technical guru within the company to clarify data of the screens and received them just now while on the phone to them i.e. what actual size are the Micro wires in the heating element banks installed in the screens on each side ( 17 - 22 microns depending on model of car ), do they go right across the screens to the edges, ( very close to the sides ) the heat up / defrost time in seconds or minutes in adverse conditions, ( I'm told something like 2 mins for full vision if covered in heavy frost :shock: ) but I was half asleep at 3 am when I called !

Amps required while in use ( Approx 12 - 15 amps while in use ~ Example below on the RX7 12.2 amp) relay required ?( Up to the individual as when installed in current model road going Ford Europe models, they are obviously computer controlled ) manufacturing / lead times upon payment etc .... ( To complete order in 3 - weeks after receipt of payment in full ) Thus my concerns who eles will cancel that hasn't already.

Anyway Brad .... See how you go

CheeRS .... Del

Damo,,,I was sort of hoping you might pipe up about the turbo,,,thanks mate. I was going to just pm you and ask but I thought that a little rude. An invite to do so is very nice,,,Thanks.

Brad,,,nice work tiger on the front screen,,,currectly we have interest in 2 x R33's and Duncan's interest in an R32. I might have interest in another R32,,,but not confirmed yet. We can play the group buy thing if you want,,,but it would be your baby,,,not mine. We would have to assume Richards contact is the same contact,,,Yes???. General group buy section,,,No,,,motorsport section,,,absolutely.

The tank I'll have tiger,,,why oh why you don't have the mounting bracket is a pain though.

Thats enough typing for now,,,I need to clean my finger nails again,,,bloody work tomorrow. BMW clients might start to think I work on cars.

Cheers

Neil.

I'll take interests and pass them onto del to be paid for and ordered etc I have no drama doing that.

I'd assume Richard was speaking to the same person.

I agree I know forsales are not for the motorsport section ( I rekon a motorsport for sale section would kick arse!)

but it would suit in there better.

No problem I'll throw the tank on the shelf it's here when your ready, I have just bought 4 more which should have mounting straps.

PMs are never taken to be rude. im always happy to help out with actual knolage or experiance weather or not it shares them same views of others.

but i can talk plenty of crap to when the time calls for it. aparently around the camp fire at new years called for a lot of it. haha.

yea i shal grab a screen for a r32

So we have 4 possibly 5 heads on screens without leaving this thread,,,time for me to ring this man. No better time than tomorrow. I'll post what said on thursday as tomorrow night I have a appointment with a purple and yellow gtr.

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...