Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those exhaust versus intake manifold pressure levels are pretty unacceptable imho. You'll find at that kind of level your engine VE will be plummeting compared to normal, if it's even sustainable My take away from that is the 7670 is a terrible call for that engine setup - at least at those rpm.

Nismo32ish - because the way the thread convo has panned out I feel compelled to point out that these theoretical numbers AREN'T for E70 like the earlier discussion could lead one to think.

Would the 8374 had been a better choice for my 3.2 build for response , I was looking at the 8374 when I was sourcing parts but was recommended to get the 6262, that turned out to be a 6266. Just wondering, Paul is being a pest,lol

Would the 8374 had been a better choice for my 3.2 build for response , I was looking at the 8374 when I was sourcing parts but was recommended to get the 6262, that turned out to be a 6266. Just wondering, Paul is being a pest,lol

I'd have gone an EFR8374 over a Precision 6266 on your car with what you were after, money being no object. I'm certain it'd be a nicer setup - though I'm not really so sure it'd be worth the money and effort changing now that you have the 6266 - though. Depends on if you still feel it needs more snap? Maybe try and find someone with an EFR on board?

Edited by Lithium

I'd have gone an EFR8374 over a Precision 6266 on your car with what you were after, money being no object. I'm certain it'd be a nicer setup - though I'm not really so sure it'd be worth the money and effort changing now that you have the 6266 - though. Depends on if you still feel it needs more snap? Maybe try and find someone with an EFR on board?

See what I mean about a pest :)

When I said OK to the 6262 it was going on the 2.6 as luck had it they put the 6266 on ?? so I thought I would leave it on and see how it goes with the 3.2 and it is pretty good but the 8374 seems to get going a bit earlier and I would like a bit more snap but happy with the way it goes.

If I ever decided to change the 6266 to a 8374, is there much extra work to fit it on the setup I have now?

Dump pipe won't line up and a slight pipe mod to the pipe that runs from the turbo outlet to the guard.

This is your fault, making me think about another stupid Turbo that probably not worth the exchange for the extra go ?

Hard to find out much about the 2 but there does not seem to be much in it, the 8374 seems to spool a little earlier, but very little from what I could see, but ??

The PT6266 CEA is Gen 2

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

This is your fault, making me think about another stupid Turbo that probably not worth the exchange for the extra go ?

Hard to find out much about the 2 but there does not seem to be much in it, the 8374 seems to spool a little earlier, but very little from what I could see, but ??

The PT6266 CEA is Gen 2

For what it's worth Pete, just leave it alone and drive it. Honestly.

  • Like 1

For what it's worth Pete, just leave it alone and drive it. Honestly.

This is exactly right. That 6266 makes serious top end (I would think compares better to the air works 8376 s300sxe I posted). Only problem is there isn't s lick of data on precision turbos and I'm a mechanical engineer. I like designing before I commit my money!

Those exhaust versus intake manifold pressure levels are pretty unacceptable imho. You'll find at that kind of level your engine VE will be plummeting compared to normal, if it's even sustainable My take away from that is the 7670 is a terrible call for that engine setup - at least at those rpm.

Nismo32ish - because the way the thread convo has panned out I feel compelled to point out that these theoretical numbers AREN'T for E70 like the earlier discussion could lead one to think.

Totally true!

Didn't want to make TOO many changes. This would be closer to racegas.

FYI I've started working on timing. WOW...BIG changes!

Be prepared for new dyno numbers! Haltech is super conservative! This car just picked up a definite seat of the pants increase at only 2 deg advance...and NO KNOCK.

EDIT - just reviewed log and Fuel pressure is dropping off on top end. I'm betting I've maxed the DW300 pump. It hung in there pretty well...any clue on what -6 AN lines and stock fuel lines will do? Am I limited there as well while I'm making changes?

  • Like 1

I have the Haltech 2500 Elite ECU, having some spiking problems. Went back and had a tune touch up and seemed to fix it but the weather went cold and I am having the same problem @ 4000rpm + after it is on full boost. It spikes and the ECU makes it drop back for a split second and off it goes again. Just needs a touch up again to sort it out , but I was wondering, the HKS evc 6 boost controller was taken off and then the ECU was running the show,

Would the same spiking situation be happening if the HKS boost controller was controlling the boost, I am not changing anything, just wondering ?

I have the Haltech 2500 Elite ECU, having some spiking problems. Went back and had a tune touch up and seemed to fix it but the weather went cold and I am having the same problem @ 4000rpm + after it is on full boost. It spikes and the ECU makes it drop back for a split second and off it goes again. Just needs a touch up again to sort it out , but I was wondering, the HKS evc 6 boost controller was taken off and then the ECU was running the show,

Would the same spiking situation be happening if the HKS boost controller was controlling the boost, I am not changing anything, just wondering ?

ECU should do a better job than the evc. Extreme temperature swings will challenge any system at full boost. Mention it next time you are in the shop but I wouldn't think it justifies a special trip.

ECU should do a better job than the evc. Extreme temperature swings will challenge any system at full boost. Mention it next time you are in the shop but I wouldn't think it justifies a special trip.

This was explained and I do understand.

Just wondering, the adjustments had been made to the tune on a cold day and it was great for a couple of weeks, then the weather started turning cold up here when it started happening again. I usually go early in the morning, at the coldest time of the day, so I waited until 2pm when it was much warmer and ran it again, same thing happens.

This only happens on E85 and it makes 75KW more than 98 pump @ around 4000rpm , could this cause the spike as it wants to keep boosting and the ECU steps in and stops it and brings it back to where the boost should be..

I am not worried, I am with a great shop that looks after their customers, just good to get feedback from blokes that know what they are talking about and you may find it interesting or have had the same experience :/

lower the base duty and let the closed loop do the rest

He is trying to hold the wastegate shut as long as he can to build the boost faster, looks like it has to be less aggressive for the colder weather , boohoo .

Add a trim knob. Not sure how it works on those models but in closed loop on platinum the trim knob can lower the target boost (and resultant tables). In open loop it drops duty cycle by a certain percent.

I am not worried, I am with a great shop that looks after their customers, just good to get feedback from blokes that know what they are talking about and you may find it interesting or have had the same experience :/

How much spike

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...