Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well last week the m35 was fiited with a custom 3inch stainless full exhaust, high flow cat, and magflow muffler. As a result, i now need a boost controller to keep check on boost levels. this is booked in for next week. I have also replaced the stock 17' rims with much better 19's. and plan new suspension with the intention of lowering the car. if any one knows what suspension works on the 2001 rs4's can you please let me know!

Edited by bechopps

Pics please?

I have BC coilovers in my NM35, height preload and damper adjustable for around $1200 -$1300. Will run from stock height to snow plow. But there are quite a few other options. Good luck!

I went to see Sam, RED513 yesterday. It is nice to talk with like minded souls.

Anyway I took the plenum off today and secured all the water lines as Sam suggested. Tomorrow I will relocate the fuel filter and relocate the relocated oil filter. Also give the cold start a good clean and clean the injectors.

I buggered the plenum gasket so will get a new one Tuesday. Hols tomorrow. Then its back together Wednesday.

Cleaned and polished headlights. Lots of japanese air grime came off. I think i might need to do it again soon though. Whilst rinsing, i noticed i missed a little bit. Have to do it once i regain strength in my arm (damn circular motion)

picked up 3" mild steel exhaust cat back from an R32 member and fitted it up - drove around for a day before deciding it was too loud and the drone was killing me...

Went to hitech mufflers and after being ripped a new one by lambros I now have a 3" stainless steel dual tip exhaust which sounds much nicer.... still need to replace the mid muffler as its still a bit loud for me...

Anybody else find their aftermarket exhaust is droney around the 2k range??

Yep, I do.

It doesn't matter how many resonators you fit, it wont cut down the drone. You need a large body muffler fitted to remove that frequency.

If you check out the Japanese full systems they have some weird ways of getting around the drone with dead end mufflers etc.

Anybody else find their aftermarket exhaust is droney around the 2k range??

Nope.

Fujitsubo Legalis FTW! :D

Yep, I do.

It doesn't matter how many resonators you fit, it wont cut down the drone. You need a large body muffler fitted to remove that frequency.

If you check out the Japanese full systems they have some weird ways of getting around the drone with dead end mufflers etc.

The Legalis has a "dead nd" resonator which I assume is the reason for the lack of drone.

Brilliant design which has impressed more than one exhaust "professional" lol

Edited by iamhe77
Nope.

Fujitsubo Legalis FTW! :P

The Legalis has a "dead nd" resonator which I assume is the reason for the lack of drone.

Brilliant design which has impressed more than one exhaust "professional" lol

you mean there's two of me!!!! :D

Yep, I do.

It doesn't matter how many resonators you fit, it wont cut down the drone. You need a large body muffler fitted to remove that frequency.

If you check out the Japanese full systems they have some weird ways of getting around the drone with dead end mufflers etc.

Im starting to think I should of just forked out for an off the shelf jap exhaust... Unfortunately its too late for me to turn back now!! Large body muffler? WHich part are you referring to? the mid muffler? Any brand / size you can recommend?

Just recived my BC coilovers and fitted 2 out of the four, ( my friend want to have a look at them before i can fit them all )

just a word of warning, dont pull the original BC box out of the delivery box because sometimes its not taped up which means every thing lands on the floor and your nice shinny coilovers are now scratched

and chipped :thumbsup:

just need to get some wheels and its back on the road :)

ps anyone have a set of instruction for these things? yes mine didnt come with

Im starting to think I should of just forked out for an off the shelf jap exhaust... Unfortunately its too late for me to turn back now!! Large body muffler? WHich part are you referring to? the mid muffler? Any brand / size you can recommend?

Any Jap Jasma labeled exhaust is perfect as it has passed their noise test laws at the factory.

Its just the muffler you need to replace, the larger the body the more it will dampen the drone noise. I havent found any suitable ones in Australia yet, They seem to cater to the Ford and Holden crowd that want a nice rumble. I will probably make my own when the time comes.

Punk72, I have the BC's fitted to my M35 but they didn't come with instructions mate, they didn't even fit, I had to modify them. How was your install?

Just recived my BC coilovers and fitted 2 out of the four, ( my friend want to have a look at them before i can fit them all )

just a word of warning, dont pull the original BC box out of the delivery box because sometimes its not taped up which means every thing lands on the floor and your nice shinny coilovers are now scratched

and chipped :)

just need to get some wheels and its back on the road :D

ps anyone have a set of instruction for these things? yes mine didnt come with

if you need a hand let me know and i can come round and tell you what i know

i've adjusted a few coilovers b4 but im no pro, if you get everything setup near to how you want it just take it to a good suspension place and get a 4 wheel alingnment done

scotty nm35 yeah they fitted really easy 10 min on each and they are in, I was just cleaning up all the boxes they came in and i found the instruction, they must have fallen out with everything else.

They are set about 60mm to short so i have got a fair bit of adjusting to do.

pipster11 Its going to be a couple of weeks before i get the wheels organised so i should have it all sorted by then. thanks any way, doesnt mean we cant catch up so i can show off the setup :D

cheers

Just recived my BC coilovers and fitted 2 out of the four, ( my friend want to have a look at them before i can fit them all )

just a word of warning, dont pull the original BC box out of the delivery box because sometimes its not taped up which means every thing lands on the floor and your nice shinny coilovers are now scratched

and chipped :)

just need to get some wheels and its back on the road :D

ps anyone have a set of instruction for these things? yes mine didnt come with

id be very interested to get some impressions from you about these coilovers as im thinking of buying a set for my gtr. they look like to good value for money to not at least try them out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...