Camshaft For Rb26 With Good Response And Idle..

[r32-25t]

Yes by nice I mean you can hear a lope on idle,

went from getting 400kms to a tank to getting about 350kms to a tank

But like I said I have a 2.8 bottom end in the shed that should fix the low end torque and reduce the lope

Edited November 8, 2010 by r32-25t

[Piggaz]

Yours sounds more lumpier then mine Brett! Get your cubes on

[heller44]

Last thing fitted on mine was a set of B's. Idle is only a little bit lumpier, not harsh. Economy doesn't seem to have changed much at all, although tune was fettled at the same time. Needed 12 shims changed.

Glad I tried it, personal choice. Reckon value for money isn't there if that is your primary concern.

Edited November 8, 2010 by heller44

[rev210]

260 9.15mm tomei cams work well when setup.

The cam gears alone offer a bargain power gain tho'.

The drop in of cams can cost a few bucks to get right, shims and time tuning. So there is more money to be budgeted for than just the cams and gears and a few gaskets.

Done right they will transform the car.

[r32-25t]

Don't get my wrong it doesn't shake or anything ridiculous but if I tell someone it's stock there is zero chance they will believe me

[r33cruiser]

260 9.15mm tomei cams work well when setup.

The cam gears alone offer a bargain power gain tho'.

The drop in of cams can cost a few bucks to get right, shims and time tuning. So there is more money to be budgeted for than just the cams and gears and a few gaskets.

Done right they will transform the car.

I'll pay that. I know i have a 25. But I have the 260d, 9.25mm lift cams. Has a rediculously lumpy idle, car shakes on idle too.

They do perform well, but do bog down taking off at lights if you dont give it enough revs.

Edited November 9, 2010 by r33cruiser

[cobrAA]

Let say, I buy a set of camshaft, do cam gear because useless? or there still a gain to be made?

[Deano 1]

You can still dial in your new cams with the can gears, they arnt useless at all. I've got type B's in my car, made heaps of mid range by just adjusting the inlet Cam, but never change the exhaust Cam with type B's.

[Beer Baron]

I saw your engine for sale.. Nice!!! But hey, you do have type-B and GTSS. did you run tthe type-b with the gt-ss?

Before making this thread my mind wasn't set and I'm still not set ( Also thinking about water-meth). However, I do like the idea of better mid-range and I do believe this will make the car more responsive and more powerful even if at peak I only get 10whp more.

And from reading what people have to says, it seems like the type-B will do that. I also read that PROCAM and greddy are ''better'' aka more HP but this is not my ultimate goal

my engine has cams in it because it was designed for circuit use and lives between 5,000rpm and 8,000rpm. it has a few things different to most. 1, it runs 4.4:1 diff gears so it spends more time at higher revs than most. it also has an extensively ported head designed to get the most out of the cams (and vice versa), it also runs upgraded valve springs etc. it was going to be mated to either GT-SS (but at 25psi) or a set of 2530s.

with a standard head and GTSS cams would not be my first choice. I would go straight for a set of cam gears and get them tuned (but I've said this about 12 times now).

yes I have owned a GTR with GTSS and poncams (now sold to a mate of mine in WA) and it went well but that was done to eek a bit more power out of small-ish turbos. in that case the set-up was already super responsive and with lots of good tuning it worked out ok, but again it had headwork to compliment those changes.

my new GTR has a set of pon-cams too (can't get away from them!) and 2530s but is a Jun 2.7 stroker engine. to be honest I will think pretty hard about replacing the pon-cams with something else, but I'll see how it goes first.

[pistol-pete]

So is it the general concensis that the type b's would be a waste in a standard motor? I've got myself a pair and some adjustable gears to go with the -5s that are already on the motor. Would I be better off just using the adjustable gears and saving the cams for when I can afford some head work?

[Ziller]

I removed my type B's an went back to standard cams, just using cam gears and -5s, the car seems to drive a little nicer and pulls better down low.

No need to rev the car as hard anymore so easier on the engine.

[Beer Baron]

So is it the general concensis that the type b's would be a waste in a standard motor? I've got myself a pair and some adjustable gears to go with the -5s that are already on the motor. Would I be better off just using the adjustable gears and saving the cams for when I can afford some head work?

yep, standard motor with -5s I'd be putting on the cam gears. they are not super hard to fit and after an hour or two dyno time you should have a good result. doing the cams on the other hand can be a bitch if you need shims etc. I would save them and use in conjunction with some headwork.

[pistol-pete]

Yeah after reading through this thread and talking to a few other people it sounds like that's my best bet. Although it seems like people are saying that if you are going to get some head work done that the type b's would be too mild a cam to really justify the expensive involved in geting the head work done and fitting the cams.

[rev210]

As mentioned the cam gears are a bargain. The cams require greater time and money commitment. But, no way is it a waste of time. This is too broad a statement. The cams may or may not fit within the budget but, done right they work.

Here's my 2c on one way in which these cams aren't a waste of time. The thinking is a little different to the usual " I want more power and nothing but more power " approach.

The Tomei 260 9.15mm cams can work this way.

You have a stock original motor in your GTR that you aren't in the mood to rebuild at great expense anytime soon but, you have some upgraded turbos and at least want to take things a little further power wise.

With this in mind keeping a lid on peak power / boost / revs / timing and fuel AFRs is a good idea.

These cams can then benefit in the following way assuming you actually set them up right, and this can be done.

You keep the peak power goal and rpm to defined limit. You don't 'have' to shift the power curve up at all and time spent on the low and mid range will transform the car more in a daily sense. Tuners will find you a delightfully refreshing customer from the rest who are all wanting them to extract the last 10hp for hours on the dyno at the same time as the tuner is trying to keep the motor away from a quick death getting there. Most have a good idea of what is safe limit.

Doing the cams right;

You will achieve greater average power and torque.

You will have earlier spool of the turbos and an earlier power curve.

You will require less boost to achieve this .

You will require less aggressive timing

You will require less aggressive AFR's

These will make the car really good to drive and keep the older and stock engine happy.

In terms of these cams having/causing low rpm drivabillity issues and idle problems , this is really just the need for a better tune and or something else is up. My experience is you can tune these cams and have zero issues off idle.

I have used these cams on tiny stock turbos as well. The difference over tuned / cam gear equipped stock cams is quite huge. But, again there is investment required for that gain.

Edited November 11, 2010 by rev210

[rev210]

oh and on the shim bit....

IF your engine needs shims for the Tomei units that are designed around stock clearances, then you will often need shims either way . The solid cam design means that shims are designed to be repalced as wear occurs. As a general rule for solid cams the more you lean on the rpm and the bigger the lift and spring stress the more often it's shim time or some form of adjustment for clearance time depending on how thats maintained in the particular motor.

It's an easy way to explain how different motors with stock cams make different levels of power etc. Not only do people pop cams in without checking clearances but, my guess is it's got to be one of those most ignored Nissan servicing checks for RB26 equipped cars.

Have you checked your cam clearances lately?

Edited November 11, 2010 by rev210

[djr81]

You have a stock original motor in your GTR that you aren't in the mood to rebuild at great expense anytime soon but, you have some upgraded turbos and at least want to take things a little further power wise.

With this in mind keeping a lid on peak power / boost / revs / timing and fuel AFRs is a good idea.

I had this in mind. I installed the Poncam B's with -5 turbos on an Rb26 with stock internals. The result sucked teh wang & the cams were replaced. Car is much better now.

Doing the cams right;

You will achieve greater average power and torque.

You will have earlier spool of the turbos and an earlier power curve.

You will require less boost to achieve this .

You will require less aggressive timing

You will require less aggressive AFR's

These will make the car really good to drive and keep the older and stock engine happy.

Doing this right is important. But even doing everything right as per your list will not magically allow an RB26 with Poncam B's make any decent horsepower at about 4000rpm.

In terms of these cams having/causing low rpm drivabillity issues and idle problems , this is really just the need for a better tune and or something else is up. My experience is you can tune these cams and have zero issues off idle.

They dont cause idle issues - or shouldn't anyway. They do make the car horrible to drive off idle. A check of the compression figures for the car before & after the cam install will show you why.

[rev210]

I had this in mind. I installed the Poncam B's with -5 turbos on an Rb26 with stock internals. The result sucked teh wang & the cams were replaced. Car is much better now.

Doing this right is important. But even doing everything right as per your list will not magically allow an RB26 with Poncam B's make any decent horsepower at about 4000rpm.

They dont cause idle issues - or shouldn't anyway. They do make the car horrible to drive off idle. A check of the compression figures for the car before & after the cam install will show you why.

I hear what you are saying. If you can't get it to work then there is a point when pulling the pin might be called for, no point throwing good money after bad if there is no light at the end of the tunnel. This means ensuring that whoever you get to do the tune/install is confident that they can deliver on the system. If your chosen tuner prefers stock cams then unless you want to go elsewhere then it's wise to take the recomendation, you can do something else with the money.

In terms of making power at 4,000 rpm this is as you say certainly not done by magic. I had a very good idea of what I was doing before embarking on the first cam install and it went as predicted, even a little better. I seem to remember I had a fair number of people predicting failure before hand, some with experience with the cams others not. There are a few guys on the forum who have very decent 4,000 rpm gains from the cams over cam gear stockers.

Careful tuning and setup will certainly enable you to lay the smack down on stock cams at even 3,000 rpm. I have done this to a few stock internal Rb26 setups with a couple of different small frame twin turbos. I have even a graph somewhere that shows you how significant the power improvement is over well adjusted stock cams on a stock turbo motor. The low end power is impressive and made the car very different to drive.

In terms of making the car horrible off idle . Again all I can say is that there was zero issue in the setups I played with.

If these cams are rotten off idle then there is something wrong other than the cams. The compression difference is minimal at best, they are still pretty small cams.

Edited November 11, 2010 by rev210

[djr81]

I hear what you are saying. If you can't get it to work then there is a point when pulling the pin might be called for, no point throwing good money after bad if there is no light at the end of the tunnel. This means ensuring that whoever you get to do the tune/install is confident that they can deliver on the system. If your chosen tuner prefers stock cams then unless you want to go elsewhere then it's wise to take the recomendation, you can do something else with the money.

In terms of making power at 4,000 rpm this is as you say certainly not done by magic. I had a very good idea of what I was doing before embarking on the first cam install and it went as predicted, even a little better. I seem to remember I had a fair number of people predicting failure before hand, some with experience with the cams others not. There are a few guys on the forum who have very decent 4,000 rpm gains from the cams over cam gear stockers.

Careful tuning and setup will certainly enable you to lay the smack down on stock cams at even 3,000 rpm. I have done this to a few stock internal Rb26 setups with a couple of different small frame twin turbos. I have even a graph somewhere that shows you how significant the power improvement is over well adjusted stock cams on a stock turbo motor. The low end power is impressive and made the car very different to drive.

In terms of making the car horrible off idle . Again all I can say is that there was zero issue in the setups I played with.

If these cams are rotten off idle then there is something wrong other than the cams. The compression difference is minimal at best, they are still pretty small cams.

I made a blue for the listing on page one with the stockers - confused a before with an after. According to the Nissan manual the exhaust closes 7 degrees before TDC. Which makes the stock cams:

Intake 240 degrees 7 BTDC 53 ABDC

Exhaust 236 degrees 63 BBDC 7 BTDC

For me that is alot different to the 260 degree Poncams.

I would be really interested to see the set ups of those making gains going larger than stock cams at about 4000rpm.

As for the off idle bit I found the Poncam B's (with -5 turbos) to require a noticeable amount more throttle to drive at low rpms relative to even a type A setup.

[Ad_N]

More opinions needed.

RB26 running all bolt on gear. Current power figure of 342kw atw. Next step for me is cams, cam gears and valve springs. Maybe head work but for the point of this exercise we will leave this part out. Looking at Kelford items but need a little guidance. Pretty laggy atm and want boost to come on quicker. Was thinking 280 inlet and exhaust with spec card below:

Engine Make: Engine Model Part Number:

NISSAN RB26DETT R32 & R33 Mechanical L182-C Camshaft

Valve Clearance: Intake: 0.25 SET COLD AT CAM

Exhaust: 0.3 SET COLD AT CAM

Cam Lift: Intake: 9.2 Exhaust: 9.2

Rocker Ratio: Intake: 1 Exhaust: 1

Nett Valve Lift: Intake: 8.950 Exhaust: 8.900

Advertised Duration @ 0.35mm Intake: 282 Exhaust: 282

Duration @ 1.00mm

VALVE LIFT Intake: 242 Exhaust: 242

Timing @ 1.00mm

VALVE LIFT IVO: 11 BTDC EVO: 57 BBDC

IVC: 51 ABDC EVC: 5 ATDC

Suggested Centre Lines: Intake: 110 ATDC Exhaust: 116 BTDC

VALVE Lift @ TDC Intake: 1.96 Exhaust: 1.33

Recommended Valve Springs: Open Height: Open Pressure:

KVS15 Closed Height: 38.5 Closed Pressure: 34

Application: 280 degree street performance camshafts, no cylinder head clearing needed

or 272 with spec card below

Valve Clearance: Intake: 0.25 SET COLD AT CAM

Exhaust: 0.3 SET COLD AT CAM

Cam Lift: Intake: 9.2 Exhaust: 9.2

Rocker Ratio: Intake: 1 Exhaust: 1

Nett Valve Lift: Intake: 8.950 Exhaust: 8.900

Advertised Duration @ 0.35mm Intake: 272 Exhaust: 272

Duration @ 1.00mm

VALVE LIFT Intake: 234 Exhaust: 234

Timing @ 1.00mm

VALVE LIFT IVO: 7 BTDC EVO: 51 BBDC

IVC: 47 ABDC EVC: 3 ATDC

Suggested Centre Lines: Intake: 110 ATDC Exhaust: 114 BTDC

VALVE Lift @ TDC Intake: 1.6 Exhaust: 1.2

Recommended Valve Springs: Open Height: Open Pressure:

KVS15 Closed Height: 38.5 Closed Pressure: 34

Application: 272 degree street/strip performance camshafts, no cylinder head clearing needed

Thoughts and opinions please people. Constructive only though.

[cobrAA]

My friend gave me a ride in his -5 bnr32 rebuilt with type B some headwork port etc. Made 480whp.

Such a monster,the pull when the turbo kick in is very aggresive. Sure the -5 might give more power for the same PSI as my GTSS. The headwork porting might help too. So dunno if I can conclude that his aggresive pull is related to his type b cam