Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BANG! N the turbo has now died.. For the second time lol. Biiiiiiigggggerrr turbo now. So I think I win, I know have more work than u lol

>_< Seriously? Ouch.Howd you make a high flow go bang?

Crap Aaron. What have you done to your car to deserve that? I'm interested so I might be able to keep mine running longer....

I do like your positive attitude though. Spoken like a young person with no kids/mortgage and plenty of time to devote to their car :)

Yeah I'd like to know...hi flowed turbo dying...were u trying to run 25+ psi???

Nice work Craig! Would love to have that power.

I am about to finish up my dump/front.. and was thinking about highflow while I am there.

This might be a stupid question, but is anyone running a highflow & standard ECU with no problems? I just don't want to spend stupid amounts of money... :unsure:

Nice work Craig! Would love to have that power.

I am about to finish up my dump/front.. and was thinking about highflow while I am there.

This might be a stupid question, but is anyone running a highflow & standard ECU with no problems? I just don't want to spend stupid amounts of money... :unsure:

If by 'No problems' you mean laaaaaaaag. then yep, I had 'no problems' :)

For what its worth though, stock ECU w\ High Flow turbo I made 126 awkw.. Impul ECU w\ High Flow turbo (1 week later, same dyno, same operator) I made 173 awkw. Unfortunately I dont have a number for my car Stock ECU & Stock turbo.

Nice work Craig! Would love to have that power.

I am about to finish up my dump/front.. and was thinking about highflow while I am there.

This might be a stupid question, but is anyone running a highflow & standard ECU with no problems? I just don't want to spend stupid amounts of money... :unsure:

You can get away with H/F turbo(about Andy's or Scott's Size) Dump, Bigger FMIC and Exhaust...that will take your injectors up to about 90-95% but still be running the standard ECU or another similar ECU. e.g. Nismo, K-Zone, Impul.......!

If you do a HF my size you will be adding another couple of bit's + an E-Manage or similar and injectors to get it working properly.....but then again you will also most double the KW's at the wheels from standardbanana.gif....safely! I'm running at a max of 67% duty cycle on my injectors and it's plenty safe!

If by 'No problems' you mean laaaaaaaag. then yep, I had 'no problems' :)

For what its worth though, stock ECU w\ High Flow turbo I made 126 awkw.. Impul ECU w\ High Flow turbo (1 week later, same dyno, same operator) I made 173 awkw. Unfortunately I dont have a number for my car Stock ECU & Stock turbo.

they are about 135 - 140 AWKW's dead standard!

If by 'No problems' you mean laaaaaaaag. then yep, I had 'no problems' :)

For what its worth though, stock ECU w\ High Flow turbo I made 126 awkw.. Impul ECU w\ High Flow turbo (1 week later, same dyno, same operator) I made 173 awkw. Unfortunately I dont have a number for my car Stock ECU & Stock turbo.

Are you serious, Dunc? Wow, I would never have thought that a standard ECU would cost that much power. I'm guessing it was doing the usual Nissan rich/retard thing and that kills it as soon as it would get any decent flow of boost, right? I'm stunned that it would cost nearly 50awkW though...

If by 'No problems' you mean laaaaaaaag. then yep, I had 'no problems' :)

For what its worth though, stock ECU w\ High Flow turbo I made 126 awkw.. Impul ECU w\ High Flow turbo (1 week later, same dyno, same operator) I made 173 awkw. Unfortunately I dont have a number for my car Stock ECU & Stock turbo.

To give you a guide.. I had Impul, stock Turbo, full 3 inch exhaust, HDI FMIC, Plenum spacer and and my car made 152.9 awkw.

I have not been back on the dyno since I installed the High Flow Turbo (Sierra Stage 1) but I know I gained approx 14% higher Power Score from the Informeter so my best estimate is now 174kw.. :)

Just a few more things to do before tune and the 200+ number.. :cheers:

they are about 135 - 140 AWKW's dead standard!

Well, there you go! Smack bang in the middle of my runs :P

Are you serious, Dunc? Wow, I would never have thought that a standard ECU would cost that much power. I'm guessing it was doing the usual Nissan rich/retard thing and that kills it as soon as it would get any decent flow of boost, right? I'm stunned that it would cost nearly 50awkW though...

100% serious, I posed up the dyno read outs in the Dyno thread - I did the runs on Willall's Mainline dyno, so I trust the numbers. I didnt get AFM read outs from the first run, but yeah Id guess it was retarding hard.

To give you a guide.. I had Impul, stock Turbo, full 3 inch exhaust, HDI FMIC, Plenum spacer and and my car made 152.9 awkw.

I have not been back on the dyno since I installed the High Flow Turbo (Sierra Stage 1) but I know I gained approx 14% higher Power Score from the Informeter so my best estimate is now 174kw.. :)

Just a few more things to do before tune and the 200+ number.. :cheers:

Assuming your turbo is similar to my high flow, id have thought it would get higher than that.

Ive got the HDI and Plenum spacer now. Very close to getting the emanage installed & tuned, I should be able to hunt down that 200 milestone with just 1 more mod ph34r.gif, unsure if I want to do injectors now or later in the year though.

Assuming your turbo is similar to my high flow, id have thought it would get higher than that.

Ive got the HDI and Plenum spacer now. Very close to getting the emanage installed & tuned, I should be able to hunt down that 200 milestone with just 1 more mod ph34r.gif, unsure if I want to do injectors now or later in the year though.

A few things I have learn t in this process,

* The standard intercooler flows quite well, it just does not handle the really hot days or repeated runs (so no gain there).

* The plenum spacer helps drivability, economy and reduces intake temps faster. (but little real gain on the dyno)

* My measurements have been on the street so not the best place to go all out.

I am running out of injector duty cycle already so I would think the injectors are a must if you are to make any more changes Dunc.

Cheers for the replies guys.

I don't have any issues going highflow / ecu / injectors. I just worry about transmission after those mods... >_<

lol........working in the background atm we seem to be getting all different figures.....

I personally recon the standard GB is good for about 190 - 210AWKW's......240 AWKW's with a shift kit....anything after that and you will eventually burn out the clutch's.

Then we have the scenario of what the rebuilders are saying. 1 is saying safe for 1000hp + mega NM's for approx $2,500 with 2 year's warranty. Scott's was about $3,000 but he had the stall converter done as well and I think he got warranty but his GB guy is saying about 260AWKW's atm. Then Dominello's in Sydney is saying about 340-350AWKW's and 2 year's warranty for about $3,500 with the a new converta!

1 thing I can tell yah.....is the Standard GB don't like 270AWKW's when shifting!

A few things I have learn t in this process,

* The standard intercooler flows quite well, it just does not handle the really hot days or repeated runs (so no gain there).

* The plenum spacer helps drivability, economy and reduces intake temps faster. (but little real gain on the dyno)

* My measurements have been on the street so not the best place to go all out.

I am running out of injector duty cycle already so I would think the injectors are a must if you are to make any more changes Dunc.

Don't want to sound sceptical, but can you prove the increase in driveability, economy and reduction of intake temps?

Don't want to sound sceptical, but can you prove the increase in driveability, economy and reduction of intake temps?

lol.....I'm still feeling guilty about how I responded to the same question before buy someone so I'm going to try and clean this one up.

Nup......but if you want proof......come and try on the alloy one I still have floating around and that should give you the economy(also comes with the reduction of intake temps) and driveability(off peddle a little more so more economy).......as for the reduction on intake temps....you can work that one out......Bakelite vs alloy!

Or go and ask some of the other guy's that have them on this forum....Cam is the person to get in contact with to buy what's left of his Bakelite kit's...Andy and I wont be making them anymore!

Edited by Jetwreck

Don't want to sound sceptical, but can you prove the increase in driveability, economy and reduction of intake temps?

As Craig said,,

Not going to prove anything to any body. I use it because I notice a difference in economy (yes reduced consumption on the Hwy, Just drove Albury to Sydney door to door for 10L/100km). The low speed drivability is something that has to be felt as it can not be shown. And intake temps, I run an informeter on my car and can see how quickly I can bring down the intake temps when driving.

Don't believe it, don't do it.

i put my good ones on, then i got a wheel alignment, unlike the previous person :P

Cheeky f**ker :P

Actually, I did have 2 wheel alignments with those wheels (the second after my Nismo S-tunes went on).

It was the rear camber that wore the two tyres so badly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...