Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

I doubt you will see 200 without bumping the boost up which will blow the turbo, and you will be limited to 200 anyway by the intake. Still it feels good at that level.

Are you getting injectors?

You will need a valve body upgrade for the auto before the tune.

i can help with that :thumbsup:

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
Posted (edited)

I doubt you will see 200 without bumping the boost up which will blow the turbo, and you will be limited to 200 anyway by the intake. Still it feels good at that level.

Are you getting injectors?

You will need a valve body upgrade for the auto before the tune.

Would upping it to 14/15 kill the turbo? I'm not terribly worried if it dies within a year...more worried about it dying in a week! Kyle's running his ARX at 15 atm...and if the stock boost on the ARX is 14 I don't see why an RS/RX can't handle 14?

Do I need injectors at this stage? Dont have an informeter so not sure what the injector's running at...I'm not 100% sure on injectors at the moment since I will most likely go down the LPG route depending on Sage222's results pending later this week. If this liquid injection stuff is as good as its marketed then I'll go down that road, hence a waste of $$ installing new injectors (which means a new fuel pump) now...

How much power can the stock fuel system take before carking it?

Valve body upgrade? Is that the $500 upgrade Aaron mentioned earlier? If not, how much, where, etc...

Edited by ironpaw
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Would upping it to 14/15 kill the turbo? I'm not terribly worried if it dies within a year...more worried about it dying in a week! Kyle's running his ARX at 15 atm...and if the stock boost on the ARX is 14 I don't see why an RS/RX can't handle 14?

Do I need injectors at this stage? Dont have an informeter so not sure what the injector's running at...I'm not 100% sure on injectors at the moment since I will most likely go down the LPG route depending on Sage222's results pending later this week. If this liquid injection stuff is as good as its marketed then I'll go down that road, hence a waste of $$ installing new injectors (which means a new fuel pump) now...

How much power can the stock fuel system take before carking it?

Valve body upgrade? Is that the $500 upgrade Aaron mentioned earlier? If not, how much, where, etc...

RVO in dandenong for about $550 installed. I should be taking my POS there in the next week or two to get done. i'll let you know the worthiness

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

RVO in dandenong for about $550 installed. I should be taking my POS there in the next week or two to get done. i'll let you know the worthiness

Hmmm.... I have heard another M35 owner speak of his car in similar terms... must be a black ARX thing :P

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Hmmm.... I have heard another M35 owner speak of his car in similar terms... must be a black ARX thing :P

its very un stagea like of me, but im seriously getting sick of the thing.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Would upping it to 14/15 kill the turbo? I'm not terribly worried if it dies within a year...more worried about it dying in a week! Kyle's running his ARX at 15 atm...and if the stock boost on the ARX is 14 I don't see why an RS/RX can't handle 14?

Do I need injectors at this stage? Dont have an informeter so not sure what the injector's running at...I'm not 100% sure on injectors at the moment since I will most likely go down the LPG route depending on Sage222's results pending later this week. If this liquid injection stuff is as good as its marketed then I'll go down that road, hence a waste of $$ installing new injectors (which means a new fuel pump) now...

How much power can the stock fuel system take before carking it?

Valve body upgrade? Is that the $500 upgrade Aaron mentioned earlier? If not, how much, where, etc...

200 is about the limit of everything, but you probably wont get there on the stock turbo anyway, I didnt even crack 180.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

^ those wheels look awsome. now put em on the car lol

I got my map/boost sensor in for the emanage today.. now im ready for a tune..

...oh wait i still need a turbo :(

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mind if I ask where you picked up the sensors? :)

+1, spotted the adaptor, for $150 delivered, but still need sensors.pinch.gif

Resealed a couple of leaking trans cooler fittings, goo didn't like ATF :spank: so now I'm using proper hydraulic sealant like I should have...

Removed damaged D bush from front sway bar and refitted factory bits, much better. A little disappointed TBH. Going to look for urethane bushes to suit factory D mounts, front & rear.

Also just bought one of these;

http://cgi.ebay.com/...MEWAX%3AIT#shId

Edited by Daleo
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mind if I ask where you picked up the sensors? :)

+1, spotted the adaptor, for $150 delivered, but still need sensors.pinch.gif

Resealed a couple of leaking trans cooler fittings, goo didn't like ATF :spank: so now I'm using proper hydraulic sealant like I should have...

Removed damaged D bush from front sway bar and refitted factory bits, much better. A little disappointed TBH. Going to look for urethane bushes to suit factory D mounts, front & rear.

Also just bought one of these;

http://cgi.ebay.com/...MEWAX%3AIT#shId

Its an original Greddy Boost/pressure/map sensor.

http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$145.00 all up free P&H.. I dont know where your looking lol

I found the adaptors for $20.00

Edited by AaronNM35
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Its an original Greddy Boost/pressure/map sensor.

http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

$145.00 all up free P&H.. I dont know where your looking lol

I found the adaptors for $20.00

Ok, I was looking at this; http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT mainly because I want to run an oil temp sender as well.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok, I was looking at this; http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT mainly because I want to run an oil temp sender as well.

yep so you can use, i think, four sensors.

I was looking to buy it for oil temp/pressure, and if I can exhaust temp or AFR.. but not sure if i can.. havent come accross a sensor that fits(and is accurate)

Edited by AaronNM35
Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

What size? Do tell!!!

lol.....was just mucking around....there are 18" x 10" single bolt from the race car!

mind you that profile does fit the guards pretty well!

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

lol.....was just mucking around....there are 18" x 10" single bolt from the race car!

mind you that profile does fit the guards pretty well!

I did notice there was no stud pattern, I thought maybe it was some bizarre generic 'test fit' rim rofl.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...