Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunately that is a characteristic of bush bearing turbos.

expect about 1000rpm over the same size ball bearing turbo. I know the pain too well.....the race car runs standard n1 turbos which are big bush bearing ones.

I don't think its 1k more. lol. Possibly 200 revs more to get it spinning, then a faster ramp. It will come on much harder with more top end if tuned right. (with the Sierra wheels anyway.) People under-estimate well built bushed cores, the 360 degree thrust washers make a huge difference.

I have much better response than Craig with his Garrett core, he has a slightly larger turbine on his 3071 and made about 20kw more on petrol.

Deleted the VQ35 Throttle body warmer/coolant loop today. $2 of clamps, quite a bit of swearing- bloody tight some of these places on these cars!

You VQ25dets have the same system? You might find you got your lovely HDI intercooler only to be running air through a 70oC Throttle >_<

Well, I finally bought some engine oil for mine, and am thinking of buying one of those Fumoto sump plug drains to make life even easier again! I've already got an oil filter relocation kit, so that helps!

do it mate, so easy.

changed the oil to castrol edge 0-40, new ryco oil filter & will do the fuel filter change after next 10% eflex fuel mix; just to clean any crap out of the system.

changed the brake kit bolts to 14mm from 12mm, like I should have done at the beginning, and added some squeal brake goo.

thats it for a while, need to regas the A/C and get a wheel align.

Deleted the VQ35 Throttle body warmer/coolant loop today. $2 of clamps, quite a bit of swearing- bloody tight some of these places on these cars!

You VQ25dets have the same system? You might find you got your lovely HDI intercooler only to be running air through a 70oC Throttle >_<

huh...photo's...what you talking about?

In a VQ35 the intake is heated via a coolant circulated around the Plenum, just behind the TB. Basically takes it right out of the main metal coolant lines.

It circulates up into the Plenum via a small rubber hose and then back down the other side behind the motor.

You can see in the pic, companies sell little gadgets to re-route coolant past the TB, but all you really need is time, a bit of brass pipe the right size, and a couple of small clamps.

Edit - the reason its heated is to stop the TB sticking in below freezing climates. So don't do it if you live in the snow. If it never gets that cold where you are, its just making your intake hot...

make sense?

medium_350ZG35M35FX35CopperIsoThermalupgrade130l.jpg

Edited by PN-Mad

I guess no need since your intake is exhaust heated...

Whats a guy to do if he found a very cheap Z33 HKS GT3037 turbo kit...? Thoughts?

As per dcdc! Now your talking...will the little woman approve though!

I don't think its 1k more. lol. Possibly 200 revs more to get it spinning, then a faster ramp. It will come on much harder with more top end if tuned right. (with the Sierra wheels anyway.) People under-estimate well built bushed cores, the 360 degree thrust washers make a huge difference.

I have much better response than Craig with his Garrett core, he has a slightly larger turbine on his 3071 and made about 20kw more on petrol.

yeh its not that much worse.

i find that its hitting full boost at 4000rpm.. before i was hitting boost on 3400rpm

and that was a stock sized turbo but just ball bearing. so basically immitating stock.

my fans now I think are the same size as craigs(almost) so im kinda happy that its not that much worse.. you just notice it without a tune i guess.

Well I dropped the car off at RVO in dandenong to get the shift kit installed, and to have the line pressure ramped right up "without braking anything" Ive told him I atleast wanna try and get a year out of it so i can save for a full rebuild, or to do the Manual/rear wheel!

I know half of you Sydney boys want it done so I'll be sure to let you know once I get it back tonight!

for people in melbourne, $550 installed.

I think for those sending the valve body down it's $450.(+ whatever shipping cost's)

Well I dropped the car off at RVO in dandenong to get the shift kit installed, and to have the line pressure ramped right up "without braking anything" Ive told him I atleast wanna try and get a year out of it so i can save for a full rebuild, or to do the Manual/rear wheel!

I know half of you Sydney boys want it done so I'll be sure to let you know once I get it back tonight!

for people in melbourne, $550 installed.

I think for those sending the valve body down it's $450.(+ whatever shipping cost's)

Ahh that's right...the EMU Trans fix that Cihan mentioned has something to do with upping the line pressure...

Ahh that's right...the EMU Trans fix that Cihan mentioned has something to do with upping the line pressure...

doesnt change the fact you will still need a shift kit. for the power your going for though Cihans emanage hack should fix it..

doesnt change the fact you will still need a shift kit. for the power your going for though Cihans emanage hack should fix it..

How are they upping the line pressure?

How are they upping the line pressure?

who? the trans joint or Cihan.

Cihan's I think adjusting this through the emanage, he says he thinks he may have found a way to get around it.

RVO Automatics, with a shift kit.. f**ked if I know how else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...