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this is the connector for the atessa bleeding in a c34 (unplug it and it will run the motor continiously )

Looks like we have something similar, found this in the workshop manuals..

ItxbW.gif

With the rough translation from Google being

3. The key switch to ON state without starting the engine.

4. Remove the connector for the driver side Insutoroa of bleeding.

Been cut off by removing the wire connector •, entering into an air bleeding.

The motor drives the pump at the same time, stopping after a few seconds. In this state

Constant pressure causes the actuator transfer

  • Nope 1

Looks like we have something similar, found this in the workshop manuals..

ItxbW.gif

With the rough translation from Google being

3. The key switch to ON state without starting the engine.

4. Remove the connector for the driver side Insutoroa of bleeding.

Been cut off by removing the wire connector •, entering into an air bleeding.

The motor drives the pump at the same time, stopping after a few seconds. In this state

Constant pressure causes the actuator transfer

will have a look at that this arvo!

Those workshop manuals come in handy. Hopefully the plug taped into the OBD2 loom has the answer. You would never know about it otherwise.

Let me know how you go Craig, I will do mine too.

Those workshop manuals come in handy. Hopefully the plug taped into the OBD2 loom has the answer. You would never know about it otherwise.

Let me know how you go Craig, I will do mine too.

and me!

Those workshop manuals come in handy. Hopefully the plug taped into the OBD2 loom has the answer. You would never know about it otherwise.

Let me know how you go Craig, I will do mine too.

Well it does run the pumP....just need to get motivated and bleed it now.

Those workshop manuals come in handy. Hopefully the plug taped into the OBD2 loom has the answer. You would never know about it otherwise.

So that's what that does (just tested it). I unplugged mine when chasing to see why my infometer wouldn't work and it threw up a 4WD light. I never unplugged it with the ignition on tho. It looks so aftermarket & not factory at all, unless my connector is different. In the end I had to take a wire from this connector & feed it back into the ODBII plug to allow the infometer to pick up the CAN signal, so mine must have been changed at some stage. Nice find, thanks.

I don't know if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34. But if it is:

You will not loose xfer case oil if you drop the front driveshaft. There is a seal

The system will always bleed when the motor is running. Once the accumulator is empty the pump will start up.

There is a second bleeder just above the rear driveshaft (in addition to the one at the gearbox). 9 times out of 10 you don't need to use it, perhaps this is the 1 time.

Decided to smash out my fog lights [ stagea s 2 ] a bit of a hard job to break into bits and get out .Looks heaps better

I did this a while ago, thought I got all the pieces out, then after a few weeks of driving I notice some little bits of yellow glass still in there lol

will have a look at that this arvo!

Can you see what happens if you unplug that plug, start the car and then push the brake pedal 5 times? (if Nissan were nice, it should go in to 2WD mode!)

  • Like 1

As soon as you start driving the 4wd light comes on, looks like it works just fine. I dont know if I would trust this method on the dyno unfortunately. If the pressure ever came back on it would be interesting to say the least...

Have you bled yours yet Craig?

if its as easy as that to disable. im rigging up a switch :)

Iain i did it to mine, it doesnt feel to good after abit of driving in 2WD. the car seems to vibrate in park, or idle.

i plugged it back up to see a difference, and it wasnt vibrating after a drive...

I thought the torque feels better in 4wd, cant explain it, but i think i liked 4WD better.

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