Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 1/2" Suction pipe tacked together for a trial fit tomorrow, prior to purge welding.

Now we get to see how accurate my fab is. :whistling:

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Yep, sure is. Getting your 3" version through must be a good job.

I'm running it through the path taken by the original, and it's only about 6mm wider at the critical point than the OEM one.

I was able to use standard 316L mandrel bends, and I've got a pretty straight shot at the compressor wheel. The inlet on the compressor cover is 2 1/2", so it shouldn't be restrictive.

I've also hooded the Blow Off inlet merge into the suction pipe to hopefully avoid any reversion issues.

The piece I'm looking forward to changing is the section before that, but I don't have any more material (or time to be honest) atm.

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Edited by Commsman

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Haha, yes, it's a slippery slope - one thing leads to another....

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Will do; lets see if it fits first...

;)

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Yay! Random windscreen headbutts eh? I love surprises! :woot:

Downhill or uphill? I'm hoping a little bit of bad might lead to some good. Might need to wait for my wallet to recover.

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

keep us posted. what turbs you running? Good luck

Been a productive weekend. Installed turbo side cam gasket, replaced in car filter and ran a 5m USB cable from tv tuner in boot to under front armrest so I don't have to go to boot all the time to change USB stick. Next thing to do is fix boot latch, fix exhaust bolt that I snapped and machine front rotors. All will be done by Friday in time for my trip to Sydney next Wednesday for world time attack next weekend. Tiltons Evo for the top honor!!

297kw atw's is impressive already. Isn't amazing how one becomes accustomed to the amount of power. Here I am with a maybe 150kw's at the wheels? and to think of doubling that and then wanting more seems almost crazy for a street car. But there it is. It only seems crazy until one becomes accustomed to it. anyhoo, i'm jealous :D gimme your cc details and i swear i'll feel better ;)

So I decided to knock up a gauge pod to mount a boost gauge on my dash at the base of the A-pillar the other day.

I started with a yum-cha '1 size fits all' generic A-pillar mount i got for cheap off eBay which i then started cutting into shape, followed by a bit of bogging & sanding

Pics:

gaugepod1.jpg

gaugepod2.jpg

And once I was happy with the shape (and many coats of hi-fill later), I painted it with some dark grey paint I had mixed up in a sample pot from Bunnings, applied with a sponge for the textured effect (the colour isnt a perfect match, but its close enough) & then stuck it to the dash with dounle sided tape

gaugepod3.jpg

gaugepod4.jpg

I'm in half a mind to re-do it so that the line at the bottom matches the line of the vent underneath it, but finding the time is the problem - that & the fact that I couldn't be arsed. :unsure:

That gauge pod is pretty cool, but did you consider trying to put it in the top vent hole? Nothing much goes in or out of there; I've had mine blocked for ages & noticed no difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...