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Correct, no use going to a DYNO unless you have a method of tuning.

However, reset your ECU so you can more easily feel the difference made by the exhaust, rather than waiting for it to adjust slowly as it learns.

^^^

The 25G was driven out of the garage yesterday. It has all its bits on. I am going to call him Joseph. Silver guards, white bonnet, S2 rad support and when I get time a red rear bar.

Have completed all the paperwork to pursue the matter for costs, it goes through QCAT here in sunny Qld, which has replaced the Small Claims Court. When and IF I get a settlement I will have it "refinished". I think that is newspeak for respray.

Thanks to all the guys who helped This Forum has saved me heaps over the years.

Cheers, Hugh

The 25G was driven out of the garage yesterday. It has all its bits on. I am going to call him Joseph. Silver guards, white bonnet, S2 rad support and when I get time a red rear bar.

Have completed all the paperwork to pursue the matter for costs, it goes through QCAT here in sunny Qld, which has replaced the Small Claims Court. When and IF I get a settlement I will have it "refinished". I think that is newspeak for respray.

Thanks to all the guys who helped This Forum has saved me heaps over the years.

Cheers, Hugh

This post is useless with pics!

Show us Joseph!

The 25G was driven out of the garage yesterday. It has all its bits on. I am going to call him Joseph. Silver guards, white bonnet, S2 rad support and when I get time a red rear bar.

Have completed all the paperwork to pursue the matter for costs, it goes through QCAT here in sunny Qld, which has replaced the Small Claims Court. When and IF I get a settlement I will have it "refinished". I think that is newspeak for respray.

Thanks to all the guys who helped This Forum has saved me heaps over the years.

Cheers, Hugh

Anytime. Glad to hear it's out of the garage.

On Friday, I decided to remove the foglights mounted on the bumper as they are just slowly getting stonechipped and I never use them.

After removing the front bar, I was shocked to see that my front reo bar was damaged. This was damaged when I got reversed into, and was not replaced by the repairer. I have taken photo's and will contact JustCar and see what is the go from here.

Anyhoo, I have always been interested in where the AC get's it's outside temp reading from but could never find it. Well I found it while the front bar was off didn't I and I moved it ! But to where you ask ? no ? ok fine....

Well I want to know what the air temp is my engine is sucking in so I placed it right next to the air filter.

The only thing I can think of as a downside is that the Auto AC setting will be going off that sensor, but i even have plans to get more of these temp sensors, wire them all in earthed to a rotating or multipole switch and then I can choose the sensor and push the button to see the readout :D All will be sweeeeeet

Oh and I painted my grill black. Ugly grille still ugly, just black :D

post-58831-0-81524700-1348394647_thumb.jpg

You can see the damaged reo bar on drivers side, and i also brightened the air temp sensor location

post-58831-0-01550300-1348394656_thumb.jpg

New position of air temp sensor

post-58831-0-16921600-1348394664_thumb.jpg

Tadaa

Looks good mate ^^

Put in new platinum plugs and hardrace adjustable castor rods. More response with the plugs and much better steering response with the new castor rods. Will be doing new rack ends and tie rod ends soon along with slip on lock spacers as the stagea can't turn for shit. Already smoothed off the steering knuckle knob which made a big difference with lock but the rack is out if travel so these spacers will help. Cv joint angle looks ok still while spinning which is my biggest concern.

Thank you Davey. CV angle is a concern of mine too with the amount of k's I do. I recently just put in bcpr's and tapped em to .8mm car runs so crisp. Will look into platinums though for next change. You are spot on about the hardrace adj. castor rods. They are indeed the next thing I am purchasing handling wise. I unfortunately know nothing about "smoothed off the steering knuckle knob" so I will look into this. Do you have any more info on this and the slip on lock spacers etc ? I will go searching now :D

coppers give better spark than platinum

iridiums come close to copper but with the service life of platinum

also, that black grille looks pretty good

i might have to get some plastiwrap and do mine similar to that

i love how even the reo is yellow lol

Oops I ment the lock stops. Grind them off the steering knuckle. I am taking a guess and got the slip on lock spacers from GKtec to suit Nissan. Should be the same as silvias/skylines

I changed from .8 to 1.1 may have some difference?

First oil change since new turbo went on, and fresh oil in both diffs.

Diff oils came out very clean, but both magnetic drain plugs had a decent amount of filings; possibly not cleaned at last interval. :unsure:

Wats new in my stagea life. Well just got home from picking up my second stagea. The auto my fiancé will be driving. So those in adelaide if u see her don't hesitate to wave. And I have just purchased a manual one. Pics will be up when she gets a clean. And then I'll be looking into wheels for the new girl :)

Yea it's a s2 rs4s. :) and yea looking around but thinking more akin lines of 9" rather the. 9.5" but I'll see Wat I can afford at the time. As not going cheap

18x9.5 +12 for the manual stagea (assuming c34)

/wheel dimension dilemmas

Seems to be the perfect fit for a stagea!

Has anyone had problems with these size wheels and hitting the front inner guards? (When lowered)

Yea it's a s2 rs4s. :) and yea looking around but thinking more akin lines of 9" rather the. 9.5" but I'll see Wat I can afford at the time. As not going cheap

a set of rota wheels will set you back around $1k + $500ish for tyres in that size for some cheapies

in a 9 you'd want something like a +10 but anything around there will sit well

I run 18x9 GTR wheels with 235/35/18 tyres and they lightly rub the inner guard liner at full lock. Not enough to worry about though

your an auto are you not duncan, so you'd be pretty flush on the rear but inset on the front, going from a +30 (stock gtr offset) to +12 would probably make it flush and stop the rubbing

in other news, i just ordered a cusco rear strut brace and a mate should be picking up my new front sway bar for me soon :)

Then i'll only have to wait till mid november to drive my car again, getting pretty bored with just driving the gf's R31

Spent an hour or three pull off bits to get down to the knock sensor in the V of the block in my ARX. Computer attached to car to diagnose why it was running very rich and had retarded timimg came back with - "faulty knock sensor". Was assured by mechanic it was definitely faulty not a loose or otherwise bad connection.

Have a look at the attachment and you will see a nest made of firewall material and chewed conductors. The mouse trap is artistic licence.

Thanks to Scott I found my way down to the problem and now know a bit more about how it is put together. Hope not to have any left over parts when it goes back together tomorrow - once I repair the cable.

post-77450-0-60525800-1348651102_thumb.jpg

Edited by Old Gregg

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
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    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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