Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Threw my new LED reversing lights in today; BIG difference.

j3ly.jpg

nw6s.jpg

qd06x.jpg

These are the ones I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360781669151&ssPageName=STRK:MEAFB:IT

Also gave the headlights a good clean & seal with some Juice sealer. Wish I could still get this stuff.

is it just a single globe per side? As mine is a cold pack having only one reverse light an extra bit of light wouldn't go a miss

huge difference dale, easy to change?

Pretty easy; took about 30 min.

I got the link to the globes from another member on here, but I can't find his post/how to.

I seeza crank brothers sticker :yes:

Yup. Eggbeaters. :cheers:

is it just a single globe per side? As mine is a cold pack having only one reverse light an extra bit of light wouldn't go a miss

Yeah, single globe each side.

You could always bridge the wiring across from the other side if you wanted both on?

  • Like 1

Yeah, single globe each side.

You could always bridge the wiring across from the other side if you wanted both on?

Yeah I have thought about that, wouldn't mind having the same lights both sides.

yea cold pack has a tint red on right..

does it pop out? or a is one whole section?

i always get people saying I've got a reverse light out :wacko:

Yeah; the whole assembly would need to be replaced; you can't just pop out the red centre of the light.

All I ever get is: "Let me out; it's really dark in here, and the cable ties are cutting my wrists"... :rolleyes:

  • Like 2

Big service day today on the Stagea. Decided to give it some love, since while it's been washed and cleaned regularly, I've just been doing the oil and filter recently.

So, did an oil and filter change using nissan filter, and GW Synx6000. Put synthetic nulon 75w90 in the front and rear diffs, and some nulon synthetic in the transfer case.

While under the back, I noticed it's been driving round without a rear sway bar for quite some time.... :/

It's suffered the dreaded upgrade sway bar, snap bracket syndrome. Anyway, I got my hands on some upgrade steel brackets that Daleo made a while back and put the rear bar back together! Needless to say, it's a bit nicer handling now.... Lol!

So M35 owners with upgraded swaybars, get under your car and CHECK your brackets!!!

  • Like 3

Big service day today on the Stagea. Decided to give it some love, since while it's been washed and cleaned regularly, I've just been doing the oil and filter recently.

So, did an oil and filter change using nissan filter, and GW Synx6000. Put synthetic nulon 75w90 in the front and rear diffs, and some nulon synthetic in the transfer case.

While under the back, I noticed it's been driving round without a rear sway bar for quite some time.... :/

It's suffered the dreaded upgrade sway bar, snap bracket syndrome. Anyway, I got my hands on some upgrade steel brackets that Daleo made a while back and put the rear bar back together! Needless to say, it's a bit nicer handling now.... Lol!

So M35 owners with upgraded swaybars, get under your car and CHECK your brackets!!!

Nice job Alex. When will you upgrading to the new murano when it comes out? Hahahah :-)

post-88192-0-68611500-1399168599_thumb.jpg

Edited by Howaitonaito

Didn't even bite at the murano joke.

There is a Fx30d and Fx50 near my house. They're about the size of the new Jeep Cherokees that are everywhere. But look so much "in your face" than the Jeep.

Started an oil and filter change very late yesterday, first time on this car. The jack and tools all looked like they'd never been used, it was a shame to put a mark them but my trolley jack is holidaying with my sister-in-law. In fact, everything on this car is (or was) so damn clean I feel sorry for it having to do family duties with us. When we got it last June it even still had the factory plastic film over the sill plates in the back, now they've been pulled off by little hands and replaced with chocolate stains on the upholstery.

Wasn't entirely sure where to put the axle stands, at first I went for the chassis rail inboard from the front jacking points but I wasn't happy with the creaking noises as I lowered the jack so I moved them to just near where the LCAs bolt to the subframe, as close as possible to the edge of the undertray. Seemed ok there but I must confess I kept checking them to ensure the metal wasn't ripping. Anyone got a better spot to use?

Also, 4.8 litres of engine oil in a PNM35 right? I did the Commodore (VS V6) earlier in the day and there was definitely more that came out of the Stag.

Edited by Hertz Donut

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...