Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the process of modification of the steering wheel into a flat bottom and top unit that retains the airbag. 

Cut off the old foam in sections where changes are made, strengthened the construction and tig welded new sections in place, then carefully removed foam from a different model wheel to replace and reshape once urethane adhesive has cured

DSC_0799.JPG

DSC_0807.JPG

DSC_0792.JPG

DSC_0810.JPG

  • Like 3

Further progress on steering wheel mods. 

Sanded to shape today, came up pretty good, well I think so anyway ha ha ha. 

Now comes the expensive bit, first estimate for re-cover in leather was $400-500, so several quotes to come before finishing off. 

Here's some dodgy pictures that give indication of size changes 

DSC_0812.JPG

DSC_0817.JPG

DSC_0818.JPG

DSC_0820.JPG

DSC_0816.JPG

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Good work - well done for keeping the airbags!

I like having insurance intact as well as maintaining a closer state of roadworthy ?

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/3/2018 at 5:04 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

 

Steering wheel is complete and fitted now, came up awesome with the new leather covering, line of sight to Guage cluster is nice unless you're a really short bugger, then it cuts off the top of speedo and tacho a touch. 

Otherwise I'm wrapt in the results, feels nice in the hands, and gives ample leg clearance with the new recaro chairs now too. 

DSC_0850.JPG

DSC_0855.JPG

  • Like 1

I changed the spark plugs and while I was at it decided the coil wiring was 30years old and brittle so why not go with some Yaris coils. I’ll see how they go with all the other mods if not I’ll change them to R35 ones later IMG_6754.jpg

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, RBW49N said:

I changed the spark plugs and while I was at it decided the coil wiring was 30years old and brittle so why not go with some Yaris coils. I’ll see how they go with all the other mods if not I’ll change them to R35 ones later IMG_6754.jpg

what loom changes etc were needed to be made? is there a tutorial on this somewhere perhaps? and what are the advantages please?

There’s a tutorial or here somewhere but I was a bit lazy and bought a kit from Golebys all I did was remove the original plug strip back the wiring and wired it into the factory plug so I didn’t have to cut the factory vehicle harness just the coil sub harness

The coils give a better spark and are a cheaper alternative to genuine style ones I’m looking to up the power a bit to around 400rwkw in the near future so with the harness and plugs needing replacement anyway I just fitted them now

  • Thanks 1

Guys, just make sure whatever coils you settle on that they're genuine. There's been quite a few reports that the yaris coils supplied by golebys aren't genuine Toyota. Im sure its been talked about on Sau before.

The kit came with everything needed I just needed to put the supplied pins on my harness I can’t remember exactly what I paid for the kit as I got injectors intercooler clamps plenum fuel rail fpr wastegates eboost as well

  • 2 weeks later...

Installed a new head-unit with a rear aux since I was sick of the Raspberry Pi plugging into the front on the old one.

Also found that you can install RetroPie on OSMC so gave it a go! Great for dealing with Brisbane traffic :P

20181024_125003.thumb.jpg.16d499738c83e02683a760320537bd83.jpg

20181025_194048.thumb.jpg.891bae912cde9a87a1f8ac01ae0a1900.jpg

  • Like 3

decided to go with the 5-0 ignite Audi R8 coil conversion setup, ordered today so am hoping will be delivered by the weekend so can sneak them in on nightshift over the weekend if workshop isn't busy, only replacing splitfires as brains trust consensus is that the  engine has a suspected dodgy one firing intermittently at idle and mid range where car spends most of its rev-time, so because I subscribe to the old rule of if you are taking the time and coin to do one, you may as well do all of them, instead of having to go back and do it again later anyway, and after researching options and bang for buck etc, the Audi coil conversion was the middle ground costwise with the best plug-and-play setup coming in at a total of $710 delivered for all the bits, including 6x bosch coilpacks, mounting plate, brackets and wiring harness.

while I am at it I'll do a plug heat range change and re-gap to suit.

be interested if anyone else on here has done this conversion and the results, ease of changeover etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...