Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the scenario goes so far..... I purchased a par 1-2-3 straight cut synchro gearbox nearly 18 months ago, since then it has seen the workshop 7 times, all gearbox out jobs. This workshop happens to be 650kms away, therefor i have to tow the car, on a trailer to these people, drop the car off then drive 600k's back home again, only to have to repeat the process again and again. Now, i thought it was all sorted, until just now. I had not driven the car in nearly 2 months, and this was the first time i have driven it hard since the last gearbox. I give it a good squirt in 2nd coming into the 100 zone, grab third, bank crunch no 3rd gear. I stop, and if i drive very lightly on the throttle i can engage thord, but as soon as u apply any sort of power, it goes bang crunch game over. Now, im at wits end, ive threatened legal action and basically been called an idiot for doing so and am now, once again, stuck with a car that does not function properly.

Idead, thoughts?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351406-par-gearbox-woes-again/
Share on other sites

shouldnt have bought one in the 1st place, u just have to read the horror stories about these boxes.

there is heaps of threads on here about how bad they are.

i was looking into one n then did sum research on here, very bad reputation. thats y i decided on n os giken set, havnt had a single problem with it and its behind a 600HP motor

I was looking around at gearbox options including PAR and an independent person told me about the only bullet proof thing out there is Hollinger...from there I was told the other boxes are decent enough things but in particular you need to make sure you are running a solid centre clutch, it is desirable to run ignition retard on changes and the PAR is very sensitive to misuse....which opens up all sorts of questions and defeats the purpose of buying an uber box...you want it to be bullet proof...so i didnt bother.

you should get your money back and back charge them, my mates TX3 has had ALOT of issues too, he ended up going to a dog engagement PAR, his car is only used for drag racing but,

he had heaps of synchro issues too,

the PAR dog box has copped alot of abuse and has even gone back into 1st gear twice during 2 different drag runs (NOT GOOD)killed his motor the 2nd time and broke a driveshaft the 1st time.

one thing ive heard is that people seem to thing that as soon as its got straight cut gears its a dog box and smash the crap out of the synchros...

if its actually a dog engadgment box then yes. bang thru them.

but i did hear that the par tooling cannot cut a gear with synchro hub or dog face. requiring the dog or synchro face to be friction welded together and its the weld that breaks leaving a loss of drive.

well, now looking at a long, drawn out shitfight and having to pay for a piece of equiptment that works. Looking at a hollinger or a modena unit atm. Suggestions, throw em, bear in mind that atm, it is in a sedate tune, i will be getting into the donk and forging and top ending it in the coming months/year

What do u even use it for? Unless it's a dedicated serious all out track car a hollinger is over kill.

If it's a street cruiser then just get an os given box, I got 1 behind my 600 hp gtr with no dramas.

U have never said what it's used for or the power it's making

atm we have ditched some timing and boost out of it, due to the gearbox dramas and we are making 390 whp. when the tune is given the stick again it will see around 450-470whp. The car is driven on the weekends and does the hillclimbs and friday nights at the drags, when ever i get it working. But like i stated in the previous post, it will be getting built in the coming months/year with either a nitto or BC stroker kit and a top end job to suit.

As for the giken box, i know. People swear by them, but would you want a box designed primarily for street use behind something that sees regular hillclimb/khana/test and tune events?

Thats the question i asked myself and imo, the answer was no

so twoogle running one for years doing 9's isnt enough to stand up to drags???? made 500kw on race fuel

ur going to spend 20 grand alone for the box, plus labour plus constant maintenance just for a casual race car.

if anything your better off getting a ppg dog box but even the full monty of that goes for like 13 grand full assembled.

my motor is built/ forged u name it with a t88 and yes it goes drag racing and is street driven also, i could never justify that amount for a weekend hack wana b race car

ask how many guys on here who race more than you do what they use and how well it stands up

atm we have ditched some timing and boost out of it, due to the gearbox dramas and we are making 390 whp. when the tune is given the stick again it will see around 450-470whp. The car is driven on the weekends and does the hillclimbs and friday nights at the drags, when ever i get it working. But like i stated in the previous post, it will be getting built in the coming months/year with either a nitto or BC stroker kit and a top end job to suit.

As for the giken box, i know. People swear by them, but would you want a box designed primarily for street use behind something that sees regular hillclimb/khana/test and tune events?

Thats the question i asked myself and imo, the answer was no

mate I do all that plus,, with OS giken 1-5 , os triple plate, behind HKS2.8L 700hp at the hubs, never held back on any change in any gear,

you shouldn't be having problems with a gearbox at that power, a standard one will handle that.

atm we have ditched some timing and boost out of it, due to the gearbox dramas and we are making 390 whp. when the tune is given the stick again it will see around 450-470whp. The car is driven on the weekends and does the hillclimbs and friday nights at the drags, when ever i get it working. But like i stated in the previous post, it will be getting built in the coming months/year with either a nitto or BC stroker kit and a top end job to suit.

As for the giken box, i know. People swear by them, but would you want a box designed primarily for street use behind something that sees regular hillclimb/khana/test and tune events?

Thats the question i asked myself and imo, the answer was no

There must be a million gtr's in the 300-330 rwkw region and stock gearboxes...if a par gearset is breaking at those power levels that is just f*cking laughable.unsure.gif

I was looking around at gearbox options including PAR and an independent person told me about the only bullet proof thing out there is Hollinger...from there I was told the other boxes are decent enough things but in particular you need to make sure you are running a solid centre clutch, it is desirable to run ignition retard on changes and the PAR is very sensitive to misuse....which opens up all sorts of questions and defeats the purpose of buying an uber box...you want it to be bullet proof...so i didnt bother.

unfortunately troy is pretty much right. if you want a bullet proof box that you can really pluck gears hard and fast then your only real option is hollinger. yes they are $20K but for poor folks who've broken a few $6K-$8K PAR or PPG boxes suddenly that $20K looks good. the other thing is maintenance. if you use it hard it needs to be maintained regularly, even more so if it's dog engagement (I know yours wasn't), dog rings are a consumable and need regular inspection and/or replacement.

OS is not a bad option but the ratios are more suited to drag racing with a very tall first gear. There is no 'magic bullet'. I kind of agree with troy that the options are stock, or go all out and do the hollinger. you do get some good benefits for your money. it's a more compact box, it' 6 speed, it's sequential, it has fantastic local support and best of all they have great re-sale value. you could use it a few years, pull it out, get any wear items replaced and sell it for not much less than a new one. bear in mind that even the hollinger is not bullet proof though if you don't maintain it properly.

PPG or OS Giken are a much better option than PAR IMO.

Doesn't matter how strong the gearbox is, it still needs to be driven properly and well maintained. Smooth = fast.

thats why im saving up for a hollinger. ive got the "full monty" ppg atm. and havnt had any problems with it. ive pulled it down recently and has not needed anything yet. its done only 2000km but i wanted to see for myself.

but with the car being pulled done and re built i want to upgrade. people spent 20k on a motor no probs so its just a case of slowly saving up...

This is / these are going very cheap for what it is / they are:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-GTR-R34-Gearbox-GETRAG-6-SPEED-Transfer-/130481692536?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e61509f78

Might be worth converting to, even for the extra gear.

Or, as posted in another thread, a brand newie with conversion to boot:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352636-getrag-transmission-conversion-kit-for-bnr32bcnr33/

thats why im saving up for a hollinger. ive got the "full monty" ppg atm. and havnt had any problems with it. ive pulled it down recently and has not needed anything yet. its done only 2000km but i wanted to see for myself.

but with the car being pulled done and re built i want to upgrade. people spent 20k on a motor no probs so its just a case of slowly saving up...

yeah you know the deal. like you say people happily spend $20K on engine bits, or $10K on a paint job etc. From memory a full monty PPG with all the upgrade bits etc is $10-$12K by the time it's installed in a box and set-up. so the hollinger is not that big a step up, and don't forget with the PPG or PAR you have to sacrifice your own box too. where as with the hollinger if you have a working box you can sell it and put that $1K-$1.5K towards the price of the hollinger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...