Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Try finding that in Sydney :34_rolling_eyes:

Garage 88 is good, but the owner there can be a total cnut - but that aside you can tell them exactly what you want dialled in.

Alternatively you can go to JAX Liverpool, Kieran (ex G88 OG wheel alignment guy) works there and will do track alignments if you book.

Another place that is ok is BT Motorsports aka Bridgestone Select in Smithfield. John the owner used to compete in Targa Tasmania and will get one of his workers to dial in the suspension for track/street, etc. however there's 1x young fella that is hopeless, make sure you get the 40 ish year old guy with tatt sleeves on each arm to do it :)

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Quick update - 

Apparently the engine is back from the machine shop and will begin assembly soon i believe... :thumbsup:

Whilst the car has been off the track i have had the time to do a lot of maintenance which has been much needed!

 

Front Pads and new rotor rings.

New steering rack bushes

Front wheel bearings

Front Kingpin bearings (Front right was shot causing tyre failures)

New clutch slave and braided line

Clutch freshened up

MCA Red suspension serviced and modified

New injectors and fuel pumps (Just changing for safety)

New Hankook Z221 rubber on all 4 corners

Fresh Motul oils in gearbox and diff

 

This list will keep getting longer but it makes sense to get it all done while i have it apart as we plan on doing more track days than ever over the next few years! We will be doing as many events as we can afford!

Ill take some pics and update when i get time!

 

  • Like 3
On 2/17/2018 at 12:51 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Everything sounding good! Preventative maintenance always feels better than band aiding at the track!

Yep, most of it is stuff i should have done a long time ago!

14 hours ago, NEO25T said:

Any details of the specs of the new motor?

Coming soon with the pics mate!

14 hours ago, timmy_89 said:

billet block RB20

It does have billet bits in it! :221_see_no_evil::222_hear_no_evil::223_speak_no_evil:

3 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:
14 hours ago, timmy_89 said:
billet block RB20

If anyone was dumb enough to do that it would be me ?

:laugh:

  • 8 months later...
On 10/23/2018 at 7:17 PM, timmy_89 said:

Heard this thing was still a nugget

You heard correctly! ?

16 hours ago, ComTruise said:

Hey mate, fantastic thread the car is unreal. I have a question though, what sort of over fenders on the rear are those? sorry if this is in the thread cause I didnt find it.

Top Stage +50mm GTT fenders. You can contact Freddy through his website or Facebook page and he will sort you out! 

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

You heard correctly! ?

Top Stage +50mm GTT fenders. You can contact Freddy through his website or Facebook page and he will sort you out! 

Cheers man! I assume these will allow for the GTR sideskirts and rear bumper to line up? or am I mistaken?

On 10/27/2018 at 2:03 PM, ComTruise said:

Cheers man! I assume these will allow for the GTR sideskirts and rear bumper to line up? or am I mistaken?

Yeah i retained the GTT rear bumper but everything should line up! Check with Freddy to be safe though!

  • 3 years later...

4 years since last post update? I think it is due for one... Lol

There will be a tonne of stuff I have missed but I'll just chuck on what comes to mind for now.

Most of the stuff we do in both cars will be posted on the WOOTTEN RACING Facebook page which is run by my wife, I no longer have social media or Insta etc hence why I've been slack with updates. I'll try to keep this thread alive as well as its a good documentary on how the 34 went from near stock to what it is today.

image.thumb.jpeg.c53622fb07d16539c02b171ca28c0215.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.6f1477bf6860f954e8fab61b83f88584.jpeg

Toyota 86 update -

Going strong, swapped back to budget Chinese 240TW street tyres and the car has never been so much fun. Tyres are due for a change after 300 plus laps of Wakefield plus a couple of days at the local hillclimb track. Gearbox is a bit crunchy at times but fresh oil sorts that out, for 120 odd kw it is a killer little combo and punches well above its weight - Credit to Jake the previous owner for the suspension work, a few tweaks to stiffen the rear and it was mint! Since we purchased the car we really only added a Roll Cage and spare set of rims with most other mods being minor items. Brakes were upgraded to DBA5000 rotors after basically splitting one in half and now work mint thanks to Matt @ Race Brakes in Sydney for the help and support!

The 86 will remain an NA budget training tool with all funds going to the 34, its a great platform and can do most things well enough in its current form so I'll just enjoy it. The 86 can fill the void and do wet days or smaller circuits where the 34 isn't ideal.

Last run at Wakefield (RIP) was doing 1.10s on the street rubber which was good fun - 

 

R34GTT update -

After a complete fk around with our local Hardy Spicer dealer and nearly 2 years without a tailshaft we have finally dealt with a decent company and got the issues resolved (Massive thanks to Gibsons Driveshaft Services - If you need a tailshaft tell em I sent ya). The original Alpha Omega shaft I purchased became an issue with clearance once I put the entire GKTECH catalogue in the rear of the car and raised the subframe trying to fix the rear suspension issues, to overcome the issue I had to get a smaller diameter shaft made which works well.

image.thumb.jpeg.72f0ad6d6a196784ea987eeb6eec0a28.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.367aabf2d963fc0d2bec1752ce1481f0.jpeg

So rear suspension is now mostly pillowball GKTECH items with the driftworks proper hicas delete arms added as well. Coilovers remain the MCA reds which work perfectly now! Previously I had stock lower arms with hardrace arms and a mix of rubber and urethane joints. DNA Autosport got the alignment duties and I have been more than impressed by their professional and passionate approach to the car and the knowledge they possess.

image.thumb.jpeg.b09c02055a70242b16e0b648ec352096.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.48f2d859e403967231891a418c53851f.jpeg

Turbo has been another saga with EFR number 3 effectively on the car now, the original 8374 had bearing noise from what they think was oil starvation and I can only assume that was pre-engine build with the old tired RB25. As the EFRs couldn't be repaired at that time I purchased a new ally supercore from GCG and ran it up after fitment and found it tighter than normal and not spooling down, discussed with GCG and was told it would all be fine so ran it at Wakefield for a couple of laps in 2019 and the cooler pipes were glowing. Took the turbo along with the old one back to GCG and showed the comparison and after a full tear down the turbo was returned to me with "No fault found" however it spun freely and the issue is resolved (Something not quite right there but either way it was fixed). I then attempted to fit a Turbosmart pressure reg to the turbo feed line to regulate oil pressure but found it was rubbish and inconsistent, went back to the old restrictor "pill" style method and so far so good! Also had Hi Spool turbos rebuild and refresh the old EFR (Which I was told couldn't be done by others) and he added the T51r mod to the front housing so the car has the right sounds now!

image.thumb.jpeg.ed7cd9dd35f2c5365e93dbdd90a9091e.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.c64d9e51ea42c1f0661b105254bd0a8d.jpeg

After the turbo issues Jez run the car up on the dyno to check everything was OK and it made the same power and curve as previous which was a good start. Due to sitting for so long I put in new Bosch 1650cc injectors and filter elements and a fresh batch of E85 and the car ran up around the 400kw at 20psi mark which was always the target for the build.

image.thumb.jpeg.50233f6541042557bc33697be5652bf3.jpeg

Fab work and hot side was the other major issue I had due to shitty fabrication and the shitshow that followed with failure after failure which ended up causing me to get the shits and quit motorsport for a while. It is amazing how a bad experience can make you want to set the car on fire! Luckily buying the Go Kart and then the Toyota 86 got the bug back and then I put the effort in to get the 34 sorted. We are also lucky there are still some half decent people in the Motor Industry to help along the way.

DVS Tuning - Jez has always been supportive and since he has been looking after the tuning its been amazing!

Race Brakes Sydney - Matt is always really helpful and has the parts for any car! 

Gibsons Driveshaft Services - Chris and team really went out of their way to help get me on track

DNA Autosport - Andre and team were amazing with the way they handled the alignment duties

Pro Car Mechanical - Martin helped me with both the Go Kart and the Toyota 86. Also knows RBs well!

There are others that have also helped along the way like Ash at Streamline Automotive, Ryan at K Racing

 

image.thumb.jpeg.7d815e4a4f75b01aa73d4bf9ff8d3481.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.422b51dc42465003dccdf38892932e90.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.5b3e566f669afaed1f5d8d3308b33cf0.jpeg

 

What's next?

The 34 needs a few tweaks to the catch can setup and also the diff breather setup but apart from needing new rubber soon it will be good to go on track again as soon as I get a chance. We may give Pheasant Wood a crack before we worry about SMSP as I'd really like to dial out any Gremlins before having a decent crack. The ultimate goal is to get it reliable enough to be able to chuck on the trailer and take to multiple day events anywhere around Australia as I'd really like to get back to Winton, want to try Phillip Island and hopefully also get to The Bend in SA at some point! Morgan Park and QR are also on the radar once I get it sorted!

The 86 needs new rubber as well as consistent launches at the last hillclimb test day killed the rear tyres so I'll chuck another set of Zeknova tyres at it and keep thrashing! Next stop for the 86 will likely be Luddenham. The 86 can do most smaller tracks and events and also goes alright in the wet so it can fill in the gaps.

Both cars will be used for a variety of events, with Wakefield Park being temporarily closed I will use this time to do other events like Hillclimbs and sprints but the main focus will be circuit work.

Keep an eye on our Facebook Page - https://www.facebook.com/Woottenracing/

Also keep an eye on our YouTube page as I will be uploading incar content along the way.

Now that I reset my password and have SAU Access again I will also update here occasionally! 😁

 

 

 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

  • Like 5
1 minute ago, acsplit said:

Welcome back,

Man that turbo saga sounds like a nightmare.

86 is not a bad toy either to get some seat time!

The 86 has been amazing for seat time and will only improve the driving in the 34.

The hillclimb run in the 34 was fun the other day but really keen to get it up to speed on track and see how it goes, It always struggled with rotation due to the way the rear end was setup but I think I may be on top of it now.

Gotta speak to Racepace again about the catch can setup and how to improve as its still a PITA

Hoping Wakefield opens up again soon as it was my benchmark for times and improvements with the PB of 62.4 in a last session and no decent laps back at the track since! Keen to get back and improve as it had plenty left - 

 

9 minutes ago, acsplit said:

Keen to hear feedback on the rear end setup. My 34 should be on the road shortly so mods will begin for me.

Should only be a few weeks and I'll get it to a track and will upload a video and thoughts etc!

 

3 minutes ago, timmy_89 said:

Good to see you out there enjoying the cars mate, hope all is well outside cars too.

Keen to see what time you do at SMSP.

Thanks Mate! All good here and hope the same with you!

I think the previous PB was a mid 1.39 at SMSP but we should be able to make a decent improvement on that with some seat time and now the car is better setup. Keen to get back there once I iron out a few reliability things.. RB Lyfe!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...