Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So time for another update.

My entry has been accepted for WTAC 2012! Time for the work to begin! Well... continue. The next phase of development is happening now :)

I had to replace the water and oil lines that go to the turbo. The water lines were speed flow rubber braided lines but the rubber was actually melting through the braid. They have now been replaced with teflon braided lines and fittings so shouldn't stop it. The oil feed line had been crushed between the turbo and the strut tower. I was shocked when I saw it but turbo seems fine. Noticed it early enough to avoid causing too much damage. It's now secured so it won't happen again.

post-10715-0-55350200-1334411785_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-07174400-1334411977_thumb.jpg

I've started stripping more out of the car for weight reduction too. So far I reckon about 25kg. The heater box alone was 9kg. All remaining sound deadening and carpet is going too. Roof lining, centre console and anything else that isn't really needed.

post-10715-0-57359200-1334412080_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-43784200-1334412202_thumb.jpg

The old half cage is gone to make way for a full 6 point cage in the next month or so.

post-10715-0-83529800-1334412279_thumb.jpg

Another big change is the car is now making heaps more power! We decided to have a crack at E85. We used united pump E85 and were amazed with the results.

We did a run on 98 to establish a baseline. It made 284rwkw on 18psi which was what we had on the unigroup dyno in Sydney so that was good to know the dyno is accurate.

To begin with E85 we didn't even touch the boost and it gained 35kw at 2psi less! 320rwkw @ 16psi.

Then we started to lean on it with more timing and boost that got it up to 346rwkw at 19psi. We were amazed!

Final tune is set to about 325-330rwkw keeping in mind that this is a track car and a completely standard RB25.

post-10715-0-63362200-1334412454_thumb.jpg

One thing that has been going crazy in terms of development is Aero. It's such a big topic and I'm doing my best to understand it and apply what I can.

I've started with some ideas for front splitters and have a few theories about how I can do what all the big teams do on a budget. I am going to try my best to learn how to take moulds and make carbon fibre bits. I'll upload photos as I learn.

post-10715-0-66613200-1334412414_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-78230500-1334412437_thumb.jpg

Good stuff russ.

i wouldnt go past just doing it in alloy. its marginally heavier but if you learn to fold and cut it yourself then get someone to weld it its a pretty cheap option.

i was surprised looking at the old Group A-C cars how much ducting was made by alloy and just riveted together.

just an option to save cash.

Mint. Will have to work out a weekend where I can run my car on the Ace Dyno as I am real curious to compare our curves and outputs.

And I am back in Melb soon so reality has just set in. I have two cars and no parking so may need to look at seeing if you have an empty spot at the Man Shed.

Good stuff russ.

i wouldnt go past just doing it in alloy. its marginally heavier but if you learn to fold and cut it yourself then get someone to weld it its a pretty cheap option.

i was surprised looking at the old Group A-C cars how much ducting was made by alloy and just riveted together.

just an option to save cash.

yeah the undertray will be aluminium and wrapped in carbon for rigidity. actually I think a lot of it will be.

Mint. Will have to work out a weekend where I can run my car on the Ace Dyno as I am real curious to compare our curves and outputs.

And I am back in Melb soon so reality has just set in. I have two cars and no parking so may need to look at seeing if you have an empty spot at the Man Shed.

That would be cool Troy.

Factory is pretty full but give me a call.

nice results and hope you are enjoying the "sweet" smell of E85 pwr :)

If i could make one suggestion with you spliter is to try and get it as close to the ground as possible, around 60mm if you can. The faster and smoother you can get that air under the front the better. Plan on having to take it on and off a bit but it is worth the effort, use some quick release fasteners on your front bar to make it easy if you continue to go down the path in your pic's.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...