Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

- Remove the exhaust bumps and polish exhaust ports.

I thought removing the exhaust bumps wasn't a good idea...

Something to do with water galleries if memory serves me correct? Could've been something else but i remember it being mentioned, just wish i could remember who it was that this discussion was with so i could find out more >_<

Yeah I'm not saying you can't make more than 400hp at the wheels with that turbo but if you're going to tell me your RB26 is standard bore and stroke, runs on 98 and under 22psi of boost, then I would say you are wrong. You can, however, make 450rwhp UNCOMFORTABLY if you want to pump in 30psi of boost and water meth injection or 30% meth or E85 etc.

-9's are smaller than -7's and you can only ever expect 400rwhp out of -7's. Sure a little more can be had but usually that will be related to the fuel being used.

Running std bore and stroke, 98 and 22psi trailing to 19ish

IMG_0555.jpg

yeah nismoid, the bumps are there for a reason. if you look at where the exhaust studs are there needs to be a corresponding amount of metal around them for strength, that bump is carried into the bottom of the water gallery, to keep the side width the bump is carried over again to the top of the water gallery and then into the exhaust port outlet. you can remove it but you end up with very thin wall between the exhaust port and the water gallery. it's not usually a problem as many people have done it but you end up with very very thin wall thickness there.

Our 32 gtr runs 34 n1`s @ 20 psi and is making 330awkw,

If anyone can find a good video on 26 head porting i would be keen to have a look at it also.

Some vids.

finsihed result

Pocket clean up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBGKP4nqcGE

yeah nismoid, the bumps are there for a reason. if you look at where the exhaust studs are there needs to be a corresponding amount of metal around them for strength, that bump is carried into the bottom of the water gallery, to keep the side width the bump is carried over again to the top of the water gallery and then into the exhaust port outlet. you can remove it but you end up with very thin wall between the exhaust port and the water gallery. it's not usually a problem as many people have done it but you end up with very very thin wall thickness there.

+1. I have never seen anyone run into problems from removing the exhaust bumps though. This mod is useless unless your running after market exhaust manifolds or if you have you standard ones matched.

not entirely an expert on the 26 head but assuming its ports are similar to that of the 25 heads then there are great figures to be had from standard head design.

i actually read something not to long ago that shed light on just how well the 25/26 heads flowed!

and as mentioned before, velocity has a huge role in engine behavior. sure on a 1000hp dyno queen or drag engine it may not come into the equation, BUT i have friends in who have put longer runners and similar things on race bike ect. to create more velocity and it completely alters torque curve and delivery characteristics.....

maybe useless info but someting to consider guys.

These heads do flow well from factory, but one look into the ports and you can see theres room for improvments. Alot of the transitions are poor (bowl area inparticular), smoothing these out will aid in velocity and reduce turbulance, overall giving you a more "smoother" flow.

A God at building rb engines once said "From the headgasket down its just a pump, from the head gasket up is where all your powers made".

Some good read:

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html

^ That plagiarist website really gives me the shits!

Nothing on there they guy has done himself. It's just ripping someone else's hard work for his own benefits.

Still a good read though, saw it a few years back. Should probably read again haha.

What line did i cross exactly? The one where people call it how it is and you get upset?

All you've done for the last 6 months here is predominately start threads that do nothing but plug your own website.

Most of the "news" or "interest articles" are just a copy/paste from other websites, sources etc. Which really most don't care about as we've generally already seen it. However in some instances you don't even credit the original authors yet other users here have been able to do so in 5mins, thats just poor.

At least other people doing the same, at least link back to the main page as a bit of fairness. You however link back here by taking people to your own build thread :rolleyes:

Oh and benefits, come come, you think people are silly?

Ads on your site - more traffic you get (via us), the more the ad's earn you :merli:

Of course you'll respond with the "it just covers the hosting costs", like everyone else. Overtime though you know more traffic, more income.

not entirely an expert on the 26 head but assuming its ports are similar to that of the 25 heads then there are great figures to be had from standard head design.

i actually read something not to long ago that shed light on just how well the 25/26 heads flowed!

and as mentioned before, velocity has a huge role in engine behavior. sure on a 1000hp dyno queen or drag engine it may not come into the equation, BUT i have friends in who have put longer runners and similar things on race bike ect. to create more velocity and it completely alters torque curve and delivery characteristics.....

maybe useless info but someting to consider guys.

My friends 25 head flows up to 750rwhp no dramas. Stock head with Poncams and springs.

25 ports are bigger than on a 26.

  • 2 years later...

Ok. This is way better. So ill leave the bump in the exhaust ports. As we speak I have already clean up those areas. I was just wondering about those bumps in the exhaust ports. I came across an artical that mentions removing them if you are going to run aftermarket exhaust manifolds.

Can anyone tell why these bumps are there in the fist place.????

But ive seen so much photos with people taking them off. Now all thats needed is somone to blow it wide open and post some dyno results with it in and the other with it removed from the head.

But I guess it wouldnt be a well worth while venture.

Or even flow chart showing the difference with it in and having it out. (The difference in the way the head flows air)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...