Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

- Remove the exhaust bumps and polish exhaust ports.

I thought removing the exhaust bumps wasn't a good idea...

Something to do with water galleries if memory serves me correct? Could've been something else but i remember it being mentioned, just wish i could remember who it was that this discussion was with so i could find out more >_<

Yeah I'm not saying you can't make more than 400hp at the wheels with that turbo but if you're going to tell me your RB26 is standard bore and stroke, runs on 98 and under 22psi of boost, then I would say you are wrong. You can, however, make 450rwhp UNCOMFORTABLY if you want to pump in 30psi of boost and water meth injection or 30% meth or E85 etc.

-9's are smaller than -7's and you can only ever expect 400rwhp out of -7's. Sure a little more can be had but usually that will be related to the fuel being used.

Running std bore and stroke, 98 and 22psi trailing to 19ish

IMG_0555.jpg

yeah nismoid, the bumps are there for a reason. if you look at where the exhaust studs are there needs to be a corresponding amount of metal around them for strength, that bump is carried into the bottom of the water gallery, to keep the side width the bump is carried over again to the top of the water gallery and then into the exhaust port outlet. you can remove it but you end up with very thin wall between the exhaust port and the water gallery. it's not usually a problem as many people have done it but you end up with very very thin wall thickness there.

Our 32 gtr runs 34 n1`s @ 20 psi and is making 330awkw,

If anyone can find a good video on 26 head porting i would be keen to have a look at it also.

Some vids.

finsihed result

Pocket clean up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBGKP4nqcGE

yeah nismoid, the bumps are there for a reason. if you look at where the exhaust studs are there needs to be a corresponding amount of metal around them for strength, that bump is carried into the bottom of the water gallery, to keep the side width the bump is carried over again to the top of the water gallery and then into the exhaust port outlet. you can remove it but you end up with very thin wall between the exhaust port and the water gallery. it's not usually a problem as many people have done it but you end up with very very thin wall thickness there.

+1. I have never seen anyone run into problems from removing the exhaust bumps though. This mod is useless unless your running after market exhaust manifolds or if you have you standard ones matched.

not entirely an expert on the 26 head but assuming its ports are similar to that of the 25 heads then there are great figures to be had from standard head design.

i actually read something not to long ago that shed light on just how well the 25/26 heads flowed!

and as mentioned before, velocity has a huge role in engine behavior. sure on a 1000hp dyno queen or drag engine it may not come into the equation, BUT i have friends in who have put longer runners and similar things on race bike ect. to create more velocity and it completely alters torque curve and delivery characteristics.....

maybe useless info but someting to consider guys.

These heads do flow well from factory, but one look into the ports and you can see theres room for improvments. Alot of the transitions are poor (bowl area inparticular), smoothing these out will aid in velocity and reduce turbulance, overall giving you a more "smoother" flow.

A God at building rb engines once said "From the headgasket down its just a pump, from the head gasket up is where all your powers made".

Some good read:

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html

^ That plagiarist website really gives me the shits!

Nothing on there they guy has done himself. It's just ripping someone else's hard work for his own benefits.

Still a good read though, saw it a few years back. Should probably read again haha.

What line did i cross exactly? The one where people call it how it is and you get upset?

All you've done for the last 6 months here is predominately start threads that do nothing but plug your own website.

Most of the "news" or "interest articles" are just a copy/paste from other websites, sources etc. Which really most don't care about as we've generally already seen it. However in some instances you don't even credit the original authors yet other users here have been able to do so in 5mins, thats just poor.

At least other people doing the same, at least link back to the main page as a bit of fairness. You however link back here by taking people to your own build thread :rolleyes:

Oh and benefits, come come, you think people are silly?

Ads on your site - more traffic you get (via us), the more the ad's earn you :merli:

Of course you'll respond with the "it just covers the hosting costs", like everyone else. Overtime though you know more traffic, more income.

not entirely an expert on the 26 head but assuming its ports are similar to that of the 25 heads then there are great figures to be had from standard head design.

i actually read something not to long ago that shed light on just how well the 25/26 heads flowed!

and as mentioned before, velocity has a huge role in engine behavior. sure on a 1000hp dyno queen or drag engine it may not come into the equation, BUT i have friends in who have put longer runners and similar things on race bike ect. to create more velocity and it completely alters torque curve and delivery characteristics.....

maybe useless info but someting to consider guys.

My friends 25 head flows up to 750rwhp no dramas. Stock head with Poncams and springs.

25 ports are bigger than on a 26.

  • 2 years later...

Ok. This is way better. So ill leave the bump in the exhaust ports. As we speak I have already clean up those areas. I was just wondering about those bumps in the exhaust ports. I came across an artical that mentions removing them if you are going to run aftermarket exhaust manifolds.

Can anyone tell why these bumps are there in the fist place.????

But ive seen so much photos with people taking them off. Now all thats needed is somone to blow it wide open and post some dyno results with it in and the other with it removed from the head.

But I guess it wouldnt be a well worth while venture.

Or even flow chart showing the difference with it in and having it out. (The difference in the way the head flows air)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...