Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was out of SAS's league, what makes you think they can do it? Even the Japanese have only hacked the fuel and timing maps afaik.

I have gone down a different route anyway, not looking for an ecu hack now as for years I have been let down. The HKS will be going in when I get back from Qld.

It was out of SAS's league, what makes you think they can do it? Even the Japanese have only hacked the fuel and timing maps afaik.

I have gone down a different route anyway, not looking for an ecu hack now as for years I have been let down. The HKS will be going in when I get back from Qld.

I never said they "could" do it but seeing as they are both electronic engineers in software and hardware and developed Nistune, I thought I'd ask if they are planning on having a look to make it easier for us all.

Engine bay looking good PN-Mad

Edited by slippylotion

Intercooler is crooked.

(Hey! So I'm a little OCD...)

Must've been Craig's fault :P

It is crooked- but as you know, if you want it straight, you'd have to chop out more of the FRP bar- thus reducing strength. I'm happy for it to be a bit crooked, cause I'll never see it behind the front bar!

Nah, no extra chopping... just pick a lower hole for the bracket (near bonnet clip) to be bolted into.

Then the other two wouldn't fit....anyway- not OCD with things I can't see!

How long did your mate drive it around without a tune? Did you do anything to help the engine?

I'm planing to remove 2 degrees static timing (the limit of what I can do without the flash software) and maybe get the bigger fuel pump in there to give the injectors a bit more room up top. Just in case you know.

He is still driving it around without a tune... although the BCM is letting go so he has intermittent wipers when it is dry and none when it rains (lol!) among other electrical eccentricities.

Have one coming in so should be back to normal in less than 2 weeks, but has had no mechanical issue at all.

Only other thing that was done was a Race Radiators custom radiator installed at the same time.

Update: Fabrication of the Intercooler piping, and exhaust are COMPLETED banana.gif

Happy with the result - the turbo outlet to pipe is amazing- I'll get some pics up in the coming days. I hope to hear its voice tomorrow, with the remainder of things being assembled/plumbed/filled/tightened etc.

The HKS GT-II External Wastegate controls the boost. It has a 0.35BAR/ 5psi (supposedly) spring inside. This functions as the boost control. It will be tuned at that level, and once everything is sorted and any problems figured out, then I propose using a manual boost tee of some form to run no more than 0.5BAR. That is considered the safe max for the stock block, and nets good power, however I have see stock blocks with 10 or 12 psi holding up on the US sites.

Edited by PN-Mad

Depends a lot on where you measure the pressure I think.

I have a feeling it will end up at about that level too, but we'll just have to see.

Meh, 7psi?

Get some e85 in the tank and dont put too much timing in, you should be able to push it to 1 bar no problem. :banana:

Update: Fabrication of the Intercooler piping, and exhaust are COMPLETED banana.gif

Happy with the result - the turbo outlet to pipe is amazing- I'll get some pics up in the coming days. I hope to hear its voice tomorrow, with the remainder of things being assembled/plumbed/filled/tightened etc.

Where are the pics?

Meh, 7psi?

Get some e85 in the tank and dont put too much timing in, you should be able to push it to 1 bar no problem. :banana:

15psi on a stock VQ35 bottom end?

Think it'll take more than fancy fuel to keep it alive, but feel free to put your spare VQ35de in your car and let us know hit it goes Buddy. :P

Where are the pics?

15psi on a stock VQ35 bottom end?

Think it'll take more than fancy fuel to keep it alive, but feel free to put your spare VQ35de in your car and let us know hit it goes Buddy. :P

Im sure a lot of the feedback on rod strength from the US is just bad tuning. Too much timing and det is what kills rods not boost, E85 will help with both issues.

I guess my motor is just super strong right? Even though the rods look very similar in size? The amount of times I have heard "dont run more than 20psi" or "dont use a p1ggyback computer" now it just makes me smile. :whistling:

x2 bad tuning kills em.

If you get det, in-cylinder pressures might go from 1000psi to 2000-2500psi suddenly, if this happens BTDC then Mr Rod has huge stresses on it.

As long as you make sure that peak cylinder pressures are reached 8-20 deg ATDC you make best power, so if the tuner doesn't get too cute with advancing things beyond the ability of the fuel to produce a smooth flame front then there is no reason you can't stuff more boost in.

x2 bad tuning kills em.

If you get det, in-cylinder pressures might go from 1000psi to 2000-2500psi suddenly, if this happens BTDC then Mr Rod has huge stresses on it.

As long as you make sure that peak cylinder pressures are reached 8-20 deg ATDC you make best power, so if the tuner doesn't get too cute with advancing things beyond the ability of the fuel to produce a smooth flame front then there is no reason you can't stuff more boost in.

QFT.

The main benefit of ethanol being it burns slower than 98, right through the crank's downward travel. Thats where the extra torque comes from.

I hope you have a good tuna picked out... :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...