Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spend more time practicing your heel toe downshift technique instead :P

Lol.

It actually got to the point where my heel and toe downshift / braking technique has gotten to a level which I'd consider quite good (I've been practicing basically every day for months). Still needs a lot of fine-tuning to be perfected.

But my S15 is off the road atm so I've needed to modify my technique as I'm driving my mum's E90 Corolla and the pedal/driving position is different. Will take a while to readjust once I hop back in the S15.

Reason my car is off the road is because my Tomei N2 Oil Pan was defective (one of the welds was dodgy causing oil to leak), so recently sent it back to Tomei HQ in Japan for testing (and once they confirm the defect I get a replacement pan). Option could of been to get it welded here but I decided I'm going to make a farkin point about it.

what about the wheels it was running before roadworthy? cause you borrowed a set for roadie, was on TE's before that?

Still got my Te37's

Just trying a more aggressive rim size & offset atm

Tony, you bought 18" yeah? Tried to look at what size you bought as you only mentioned 9.5" width.

9.5inch + 22 Drift tek.

inb4fakes and it kills babies

Toby, Excel spreadsheet is done, what email should I send it to?

jerry_maguire.jpg

Email it to my work address brah

Forgies cost similar to new genuine pistons & rods.

yeah pistons and rods maybe, but not crank (which I thought he was also referring to)

GTiR crank: ~$600 used

Forged: $1900+

fark dat shit.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...