Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are not a good pad for street.... also they chew rotors too much for street

better to go something like EBC red if want street pads

Yup qfm spokesperson validated why my rotors disappeared in 15,000km of street driving with a1rm.

They chew a lot when cold.

He said the qfm hpx are the best street pad from their range.

Been using them ever since and no issues.

I killed a set of A1RM's at calder in one day...never again.

(and remember I'm traveling slower than most here and with a lighter car.)

were great at deca tho.

I'm trying a few new ones now the ones I were using no longer in AU.

so I want to drain the fuel on the 200 as it will have been sitting for 6+ months b4 next track day.

I'm thinking easiest way is to pull the outlet hose off the fuel filter, put some fuel line on that into a jerry can and just turn on the ignition.

need to change fuel filter as well so seems like a good time for it.

any-one have a better way.

Really good article... Note for once it concentrated on actual issues and solutions instead of "Speed kills", "More Cameras are needed to save lives!", "HOON!"

I think I've got a night there too, will post results. All I've heard is it's expensive but very clean

if going to salzberg

and you drink beer

hit this place up

http://www.beerdrinkersguide.com/BDGWebsite/Gardens/AugustinerSalzburg.htm

full of locals , and they have a little "street" of food places where you can buy want what your want from each, everything from salad to most of an animal

plus cheap

the cheese Kransky's we had were spectacular

so I want to drain the fuel on the 200 as it will have been sitting for 6+ months b4 next track day.

I'm thinking easiest way is to pull the outlet hose off the fuel filter, put some fuel line on that into a jerry can and just turn on the ignition.

need to change fuel filter as well so seems like a good time for it.

any-one have a better way.

I just use the return line off the rail and idle till done.

done it heaps of times

The CP5070D54 sized pads fit. Most manufactures make these.

You can get them in DS2500/3000, HC800/Club Racer, Blue (DP5006)/Orange (DP9006) Stuff.

I really liked the project-mu, but it was costing too much. So used the Blue, then went to the Orange when I stopped driving it on the road.

DP5006NDX.jpg

Yep, I was told the "pads for k-sport/d2" should fit but you may need to modify/grind the pad a bit to fit, which meant it didn't fit. Either that or buy the actual pads from the JJ site.

So will these fit without modifications?

Also Simon, the green pads that come with them are baaaaad. I mean they're good for street, and by 'good for street' I actually mean I had a fair amount of brake fade in the hills with a 356mm set vs the standard brakes which had none.

hence the research into pads

:/ We'll see how it goes I guess. due to the fact I won't be able to just pop down to repco/sca to pick up pads anymore, I'll always have a spare set on hand... so will have time to experiment and see what fits and what doesn't...

Won't be tracking it for a bit, getting these brakes killed my car budget for a while... But when I do I'll be running great pads on the track, and swapping them out for street pads when I get home and take off my track tyres.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...