Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd be welding a short extension to the comp cover to get the joiner away from the dp, easily done given your using ally for the piping and will cost next to nothing as part of the bigger piping job.

Ceramic coat the manifolds, rear housing and dumps gav, it's worth it!

With my T04Z you could hold your hand right about the exhaust housing after thrashing, if you did that without the coating you would start smelling pork cooking :whistling:

They must have lifted there game, they coated a manifold for me years ago and the coating started flaking after a few dyno runs.

They must have lifted there game, they coated a manifold for me years ago and the coating started flaking after a few dyno runs.

Really? That sucks, I got my GTR stuff double black coated and didn't have any issues and that nigga got hot haha :thumbsup:

I'd be welding a short extension to the comp cover to get the joiner away from the dp, easily done given your using ally for the piping and will cost next to nothing as part of the bigger piping job.

Agreed. I melted 3 silicon hoses over 12 months in my GTS-R manifold/GT30 and there was more distance that in the pics.

Really needed to weld an elbow/extension just to clear a bit.

Yeah I would weld some ally pipe to the turbo. Id cut the whole snout off and weld a bend straight on for better clearance.

I JUST made a twin cooler piping setup / 3 inch intakes for my 32 GTR and the rear was a nightmare. I struggled to fit a 2.5" bend off the front on the rear turbo and then the 2.5-3" cone, then another small 3" bend. The actuator arm gets really close too. Youre in for a treat :) if youre not paying someone.

I might post a pic of my rear intake pipe later.

  • 3 weeks later...

The delay is my fault. Turbs all bolted up, but I'm waiting to get the car to a specific fabricator who will do the quality of work on the pipework that I want.

med_gallery_705_63_430119.jpg

Note the shortened PS pump and the fact that I retained the HKS actuators as the bew ones fouled the oil lines.

Hopefully not too long a wait now.

  • 3 weeks later...

OK - all bolted back up now and tuned.

First things first - the new induction and compressor pipework.

med_gallery_705_63_376087.jpg

Very happy with the work and is much lighter than the cast HKS pipework I had before. I also replaced the Blitz "flywire" units with some K&S filters that I'm sure do a better job of filtering.

Now - onto the dyno. Started off with the BP98 tune:

med_gallery_705_63_30415.jpg

There was a fair bit of setting up initially as I changed the Apexi MAP sensors out to Greddy units (3 bar absolute) and ID2000 injectors. Once the preliminaries were out of the way it was clear that these turbos are a different beast. As we approached the limit of the boost of the -5 units, these really started coming into their own. The difference between the 20 to 23 psi (final tune) was significant with a LOT more power being made. Higher boost just started inducing too much knocking. We did make around an additional 40 rwhp, however, topping out at 581.

Now - the E85 is where it really starts to get interesting. Unfortunately I don't have an overlay of before and after, but previously we managed 620 rwhp at around 23 psi.

med_gallery_705_63_288515.jpg

The new GTX units on E85 allowed more boost and netted a respectable 670 rwhp (or as near dammit an even 500 rwhp).

med_gallery_705_63_150875.jpg

Again what was evident is that these terbs REALLY like boost. I'm sure that these could flow north of 700 rwhp on a stroked RB30 with the right head work.

Wow Gav. Just wow. Fkn massive result.

So can I just check please the final result on E85, that's at 23psi?

Did you try higher than 23psi on E85?

Any graphs in rpm instead of kmh please?

You've got to be happy with that result-must be just mental under boost in any gear haha

And the biggest one......do you have shuffle back again now?

Edit; I think you mean 500rwkw in the second last paragraph :)

wow!

can i just confirm that these are effectively the new range of -5s?? or is it something completely different?

also, dont mean to disrespect at all... but doesnt the larger size of these turbs make their whole use mute? cant exactly look stock with that fabrication (which looks awesome by the way!!)

Same rear (housing and wheel) as normal -5's, 2530's, 2540's, GT RS's and -10's.

The comp housing has a 3 inch inlet instead of a 2 inch and a 'revised' front wheel.

It's such a shame they are not direct bolt on. :(

I wonder where the 'limit' of these little housings are?!?!

Imagine it with another 7 PSI!

You wont get much better without a bigger A/R turbine housing; getting a bigger compressor wheel is not the issue it is the small exhaust side that causes problems especially if you want 500kW... using twin low mount internal wastegate turbochargers is the wrong way to make that power.

Is it still ? :nyaanyaa:

Congratulations mate what a monster. 500hp by 120kph I'm only at 300 at 120kph. 2.8 goodness there.. Only way iv ever make 500 at those rpm was holding the wastegates shut and ran 32psi yours is making all that power at low boost great work.. Do you have any plans of running it at the strip?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...