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I'm just not convinced everything you say is accurate disco...while it all makes sense theoretically new engines are lasting longer than ever on the oils specified from.factory

This is true. But I wonder how the eflex cars are going at 10 000km service intervals after 150000 km. Especially if they are not driven regularly.

Also to consider is whether having a typical looser built forged motor where contamination on a cold engine will be much greater than a tighter engine with stock internals is a major factor in oil choice and changing frequency.

I run amsoil in my evo mitch which is also on FP's list of suitable oils. I buy it off a guy in the gong off ebay its good shit I ran it in my 33 on e85 also with no dramas

Whats a decent e85 safe oil that has a high zinc content (recommended for FP turbos). Car is purely street driven and id like to only change it every 5k or 6 months

The thing is that many factory service intervals particularly with oil is longer than it's ever been and this is not because the engine necessarily likes it this way .

Go look at the valve trains in all current engines and note the valve train systems used . Then do some searching on why engines from the 60s and 70's damage valve train parts when using current green oils , and BTW it ain't the viscosity doing the damage . Eco Nazis reckon that high levels of ZDDP shortens the life of cat converters (coating/poisoning) so it's been reduced in green oil . Automotive engineers know that high point loadings on conventional "sliding" rockers like say a Nissan L Series SOHC has need the high pressure additives so virtually all rockerised engines have roller drums on their rockers . 4G63s are a prime example , later EJ SOHCs do too . The pushrod V8s mostly have roller cam followers and I don't think the manufacturers did all this for fun .

Turbocharger wise ball bearings are a win because they have hardened balls running on hardened races and cover radial and thrust loadings easily .

The dramas occur when someone tries to run steel bushes in a conventional housing and supporting a shaft that was designed for non ferrous bushes ie Bronze Aluminium etc . Steel on steel doesn't play nice in high speed shaft bearings and as soon as they touch they need something like ZDDP in higher than Green concentrations to stop destroying themselves . I did searches ages ago on FP turbos and it seems obvious to me that they need you to run oils with high enough levels of ZDDP because they use non standard bearing materials so you go outside the manufacturers std servicing procedures .

Now as to engines lasting longer , std ones , materials and clearances are often better and running at higher temps means greater heat stress . Engine controls are more accurate than they used to be as well .

Diesels , have a look at their rods pistons cranks and heads and note how heavy they are compared to the same capacity petrol engine . Also have a look at their torque outputs at the same low revs , high torque means high cylinder pressures and power loads - higher loads on their crank bearings and gudgeon pins as well . Actually take a real good look at the size and wall thickness of those pins because they dwarf petrol ones . Manufacturers never add anything for nothing , take a look at RD diesel bits compared to RB petrol ones . As a bit of trivia LD28 diesels used reasonably beefy rods with big pins for the day and Nissan lifted these rods for use in later FJ turbo engines . FJs also had the larger diameter pins though with a lot less wall thickness . RD28 pistons weigh a tonne compared to FJ OE ones and would cost considerably more to make .

For us ratbags some diesel oils are the easy way to affordably get the right additives which is why this is old news at all the US forums . I have yet to read anyone say that Rotella T6 screwed their engine or turbo and they much prefer the price compared to most performance petrol engine oils . At the end of the day I reckon the right viscosity with the right additives is what makes good lube oil . If the eco pricks haven't found ways to stop the oil producers using the good stuff in diesel oil then I see no shame in pouring it into a sparkler engine .

ok so decided to have a look at autobahn because 20% storewide...

SYN-X 3000 is now SN rated and on sale 30$ for 6lt.... so 12lt for 60$ ...how could I resist..

lets see how it goes :)

1233402_10151910711581499_341480051_n_zp

Ive been using this oil in my skyline (r34 gtt 2.5l) for more than 25,000km's and nearly 10,000kms of those were after getting it tuned to e85 untouched bottom/top end (running between e70 and e85) and everything seems very healthy and thats with very hard driving, on private farm roads of course. Change this oil between 2000km and 5000km.

Very cheap and seems to be doing a great job.

This is the stuff I run in my evo 9 and I ran this in my 33 but in a 10w-40.. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-category/25000-mile-oil-change/100-percent-synthetic-motor-oils/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/

What was the weight/specs of that Amsoil mick?

Have here good things about that oil

I had the amsoil in my 33 for months whilst running E85 sitting around doing nothing as I hardly drove it and it was fine car always purred like a kitten :) highly recommend it even though its expensive

  • hi guys running penrite racing 10w 40 as requested by my tuner - car is now off the road and only used on track stuff drifts ect - penrite have recommended using racing 20w60 - what would happen if i used this grade? should i just stick with the 10w40 grade?

no internal work on bottome or head only bolt on mads making safe 320kw rb25det R33

  • hi guys running penrite racing 10w 40 as requested by my tuner - car is now off the road and only used on track stuff drifts ect - penrite have recommended using racing 20w60 - what would happen if i used this grade? should i just stick with the 10w40 grade?

no internal work on bottome or head only bolt on mads making safe 320kw rb25det R33

Id be going the 15-60 if its a track car just for a bit more insurance since your gona be heating up the oil.

Edited by boostn0199

Insurance against what? Thicker oil won't magically save your bearings, it will certainly make it harder to get back to the sump though, RB's already have enough issues with this...

You realise F1 use straight 10 weight oil? it is the film strength that protects bearings, not the viscosity... Stick with 10W40 synthetics and you will be fine, and drop the oil after each track day.

  • Like 1

Go the lightest oil you can. If your engine is coping with temps then leave it. Don't go too thick because your turbos, head and oil pump might not like it. As long as you change the oil after the track and make sure it's not burnt you will be fine. The oil you are using shouldn't see problems though.

Guy rocks up to school with oil for his Honda crv the other day to do a change

CAstrol edge titanium 10-60... :blink:

bit overkill...

Needless to say many lolz were had and I snagged a bottle of edge after convincing him magnatec 10-40 would be more suited to his application

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