Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What about...

3. Killing the sport because people need to spend so much to get there now and bar has been raised that much higher?

It'll be interesting either way to see how many teams fly out again next year :)

Hang on, wasnt there some eyebrow raising last year because the japs bought an ex gt500 chassis to the event.

?

  • Replies 742
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hang on, wasnt there some eyebrow raising last year because the japs bought an ex gt500 chassis to the event.

?

That sounds like the revolution rx7 that was there with basically a full tube frame in '11.

Edited by «Cyph3r»

That sounds like the revolution rx7 that was there with basically a full tube frame in '11.

Right, so now the Aussi's take the oneupmanship from them they're gonna take their marbles and go home

I would hope it doesn't do anything to kill the sport, just spawn a new class within the field

It would be good to make the clubsprint class higher profile with clearer/stricter rules

i dont think anyone should underestimate the dollars spent by competitors, even in clubsprint class

open class is the new pro class lol

Would also be interesting to see some of the pro class australian cars heading over to buttonwillow and tsukuba to share some of the expense around and give rival teams a chance on their home ground.

Kind of like Newman and Berry did quite some time ago heading to tsukuba at least.

As Nev has said, if anyone thinks that bolting a set of flares made 1.3 seconds difference, I will pay good money for those flares!! I am also willing to bet the people who were protesting had diffusers etc which were questionable...

As Nev has said, if anyone thinks that bolting a set of flares made 1.3 seconds difference, I will pay good money for those flares!! I am also willing to bet the people who were protesting had diffusers etc which were questionable...

If it meant going from a set of 235,s to a set of 285's I could see it making a difference for sure.

What about...

3. Killing the sport because people need to spend so much to get there now and bar has been raised that much higher?

It'll be interesting either way to see how many teams fly out again next year :)

Aaaah! Now we're touching on the...

Definition of Sport:-

* Smart enough to make the rules work for you, plus...

* Dumb enough to think the game is important !!!

Hehe...

Oh well; having been a catamaran skipper, yeah well I've been a sucker to "get an edge" somehow - like anti-friction paint - lol

As Nev has said, if anyone thinks that bolting a set of flares made 1.3 seconds difference, I will pay good money for those flares!! I am also willing to bet the people who were protesting had diffusers etc which were questionable...

It was not just the flares, for the pople who have not seen this car here is an image of it with the diffuser out the back... has more aero than some open cars

post-36356-0-55723700-1344832591_thumb.jpg

For the record, I don't agree with clubsprint cars running front splitters, canards, diffusers and wheel arch flares etc.

However, WTAC/Superlap did and has always stated that entry/submission to the event is at the discretion of the organisers.

Covering them for any car they want to compete but doesn't really fit the rules. Whilst this rule or disclaimer remains, you will always get cars that don't comply entering and competing.

As a spectator, I and alot of others want to see wild stupid fast cars. But hey for Clubsprint the rules should be tightly enforced.

WTAC is a great spectacle, and it reminds me of a quote from Chopper, "Never let the truth get in the way of a good story!"

Edited by nismoman

More info about Nemo: http://www.carsguide...ws/lancer_evo_7

A guy named Andrew Brilliant (apt name isn't it?) designed the aero package. Here is an interview with him: http://www.hioctaner...dynamicist.html

He seems to have his own website: http://www.amb-aero.com/

The guy is clearly not a chump and has designed aero for some big ticket categories.

I was at the event on the Friday and I loved every second of it... until Nemo ran in the 1:25s, which happened in the first session. Suddenly every other car was at least two seconds off the pace. That ruined the pro class for the remainder of the day.

Open and Clubsprint classes were fantastic to watch. The C6 Z06 'Vette looked and sounded great, the two supras were unbelievably loud, and the Exige looked insanely planted around the corners. There was also a very tough sounding C63 coupe that blipped the throttle deliciously every time leading into turn 1. All in all, a very enjoyable day.

Edited by ras1983

I found it a little funny with Chris Eaton's car, he initially thought people who built a car and had a pro driver involved were crazy not to do all the driving themselves (eg how I shared driving with tarzan last year). looks like he changed his mind when the pressure was on as it looks like luffy did most of the driving, which I completely understand. Regardless of what people say, these cars dont drive themselves. it would have taken considerable skill to get that thing around the track in a 1:25. as someone said earlier, that thing looks to handle like an open wheeler with a shell

Someone else might be able to clarify but in the session the owner drove (Luffy was up on the pit roof watching) the car was doing 35's. Then again I was getting times via the commentators so I could be way off.

More info about Nemo: http://www.carsguide...ws/lancer_evo_7

A guy named Andrew Brilliant (apt name isn't it?) designed the aero package. Here is an interview with him: http://www.hioctaner...dynamicist.html

He seems to have his own website: http://www.amb-aero.com/

The guy is clearly not a chump and has designed aero for some big ticket categories.

Andrew was also involved with the High Octane R34, Big Red R32 and I dare say probably other cares as well :thumbsup:

Very interesting to hear him talking about things, it's stuff that will keep ones brain gears turning for weeks.

NATSOFT shows eaton in the the mid 30's but that relies on the right transponder being in the car at the right time.

He may well have recorded faster times but eith luffy's transponder in the car

It would be good to make the clubsprint class higher profile with clearer/stricter rules

Couldnt agree more. To me clubsprint should fundamentally resemble the street car with a cage. (Optional) Original body work, no splitters, no ridiculous wangs, no added aero or widebodies. Somthing like targa showroom or even a targa modern or early modern car. Maybe call it Targa class. :) From a spectators point of view there seemed to be some pretty broad interpretations of the rules, or at least cars of the same breed (say an evo) at very different ends of the development spectrum. As others have said, some of the clubsprint cars looked much the same as an open car, just with street tyres on.

Man o man

Have we opened a can of worms,I didn't see any shep stations being past on.

Anyone in any sport always wants to win and to do this depending on the sport,you need to spend MONEY.

Motor sport isn;t cheap and if you don't want to better your own times and beat others compeditors times WHAT ARE WE RACING FOR??because the prize money doesn't cover anywhere near the exspences.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...