Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The big plus side of having compatable international rules in all series is the fact that cars can travel overseas and have a good run at it. Building cars for each of the series to compete in other countries is too much.

Noel makes a good point, those front running cars are very cool too watch. I think this year has changed the game, NEMO racing did an insane job of resetting the benchmark. I don't like the idea of making rules to ban cars but another class may be in order, AERO class or PROTOTYPE class to put these cars in. Making rules is never easy but could incorporate the footprint of the car, such as no more than 10%(?) extra width / length protruding, tube frames etc. As hrd-hr30 said maybe slicks allowed in that class also, as the aero etc has taken them way out of the realm of tuned street cars.

  • Replies 742
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's exactly what it is at the moment Ray. It's quite a young form of motorsport, and as Drifting once was, is not that organised. Props to the guys over here to get such a World Class event going in such a short amount of time. This isn't a massive company with endless means and time, and they are still learning. Let's not forget that ;) From what I've seen they've done a fabulous job thus far, and I'm sure they will fine tune the rules and setup to suit the newfound global position it now has.

As for the image above of Nemo, I also thing that must be a very early image. Last photo I saw it didn't have B-Pillars at all.

Well done to all who competed, looked like a great event and one that I'm sorry I missed. Looking forward to next year!

From what I understand, the various world time attack events are seperate events with different rule books? The organisers need to develop standardised rule books for the world time attack series as a whole. It should be the same rules whether it be in Japan, Australia, the USA, or wherever. And, whole Nemo smashed everyone, there were some insanely fast cars that had lap times that were faster than last year's winning lap time. So teams have the means and tech to compete with Nemo. As has already been said, they can either decide that it's too hard and give up or they can decide to accept the challenge and come back with faster cars. I'm hoping it's the latter.

Well given that the TIlton car was reportedly running basically as a FWD when it set it's fastest time sounds like it may have been able to rival Nemo with it's problems ironed out.

Pretty impressive given how much it still resembles an evo with bolt ons, not unlike the Cyber evo when they were running Voltex.

to big translator for all japan time attack rule - hiroaki sorry

hiroaki not wanted bad voice argument sorry try be friendly to australia time attack

wish NEMO black r34 cyber garage revolution all racers together in australia 2013 - maybe hiroaki go to australia yes

The rules not only need to be defined, but imo opinion i dont think 3 classes can cater for the various forms of cars out there.

Even if clubsprint for example is split into several different classes, allowing basically stock cars to the more extreme versions to compete in their own right.

to big translator for all japan time attack rule - hiroaki sorry

hiroaki not wanted bad voice argument sorry try be friendly to australia time attack

wish NEMO black r34 cyber garage revolution all racers together in australia 2013 - maybe hiroaki go to australia yes

Hiroaki, you haven't caused an argument. It's just that it's clear the rules need improving and/or enforcing.

Meh to international rules. The Japanese GT racing is different to the Europeans which is different to the Americans so what chance has a club level scene got?

I think the main thing is to stay away from slicks. I would be interested to know the one lap pace difference of a slick vs semi....as loads of the slicks out there are for controlled series and doubt they are that brilliant a tyre

i think Nemo is planning on going to the states and Japan and would be allowed to compete with the current set up, to me that means Australia has got the rule mix right although need to enforce it.

if anything for the states Nemo could run a slick that is a lot wider and go quicker again.

The rules not only need to be defined, but imo opinion i dont think 3 classes can cater for the various forms of cars out there.

Even if clubsprint for example is split into several different classes, allowing basically stock cars to the more extreme versions to compete in their own right.

Honestly - I don't see the point to Clubsprint in Time Attack. It's kind of completely against the point of the event to run stockish cars. And this is coming from someone who was supposed to be in Clubsprint. It just doesn't feel like it belongs at this event and given the fastest Clubsprint cars were all bloody open class cars anyways, I think if a field of cars ran around in the guise the class was supposed to be then everyone would just look at them and think "why are they here?".

I reckon they'd be better off having more Open cars and splitting 4WD and 2WD categories and giving more reward / focus to good 2WD entries.

So instead of 50 Open class cars and 25 Clubsprint they could have roughly 30 AWD Open and 30 2WD Open cars and scrap Club. Top 5 from each get Pro invites for the following year.

My 2c anyways.

so i assume club cars dont need to be roadworthy, just needs current rego?

doesnt seem legit

Its like the other rules and regs Ive seen that say the car must be registered and have a engineers cert for any modifications to run in SVD, Ive never been asked to show a cert once.

If the car is meant to be regoed it should at least look like it could pass a slip.

Im only a occasional weekend warrior but it seems, at local super sprint events anyway, you pick the class you think you would be competetive in and go from there, Im only there for fun but I feel bad for the people running to the rules in their group whilst others blatently disregaurd the rules and enter their car in the wrong group.

A friend has a reasonably standard WRX who plays by the rules but others in his class have cars that are so far away from that class its not funny but they are still entering the same class as him.

He says its cool but you can tell that it guts him, at least he is cool in the knowledge that he is doing it right and the others are cheats.

Touching on marks post

While it sucks people turn their noses up at the rule book

It would be silly to scare people away by stripping engines etc at the end of an event

I certainly couldn't afford to have that happen to me, and even if money was no object it would annoy me to say the least at club level, national level racing is understandable

So with wtac/SL only being around since 09 I can see why they are allowing anything to enter (unless it's a Porsche lol)

But given entries sell out damn near instantly it would be nice to see them advvertise the fact that all cars must be to the letter of the regs or risk being booted and not welcome back until the car checks out, give the average club guy a chance to stick it to the guys with big cheque books

Why would someone like me want to enter, when I would prob be 15 secs a lap off the pace even though my car would be more of a club car than a carbon winged warrior lol

Either way super lap is for the bigger budgets and cams sprints will tide the rest of us over I guess

But given entries sell out damn near instantly it would be nice to see them advvertise the fact that all cars must be to the letter of the regs or risk being booted and not welcome back until the car checks out, give the average club guy a chance to stick it to the guys with big cheque books

They sent correspondence about tyre choice, but didn't police it during the event. Similar thing regarding FRP/Carbon fenders.

Touching on marks post

While it sucks people turn their noses up at the rule book

It would be silly to scare people away by stripping engines etc at the end of an event

Its the blantant stuff that erks me, his class states the car must be standard with only a few mods here and there, but he is up against cars that have the dash gutted, carbon bonnets, doors, boots, guards, wings, splitters, big boost and stuff.

But I 100% agree that super lap should be the best of the best, why would I want to pay money for something I can see every weekend at a race track near me, I want stupid fast cars with every bell and whistle.

They should have two groups, insanely fast and stupidly insanely fast.

Im just pissed that I missed it because work thought it would be better for me to be living out in the range for a couple of weeks.

FTA

Its like the other rules and regs Ive seen that say the car must be registered and have a engineers cert for any modifications to run in SVD, Ive never been asked to show a cert once.

If the car is meant to be regoed it should at least look like it could pass a slip.

Im only a occasional weekend warrior but it seems, at local super sprint events anyway, you pick the class you think you would be competetive in and go from there, Im only there for fun but I feel bad for the people running to the rules in their group whilst others blatently disregaurd the rules and enter their car in the wrong group.

A friend has a reasonably standard WRX who plays by the rules but others in his class have cars that are so far away from that class its not funny but they are still entering the same class as him.

He says its cool but you can tell that it guts him, at least he is cool in the knowledge that he is doing it right and the others are cheats.

Unfortunately that sort of cheating happens a lot, good on your mate for standing firm.

Honestly - I don't see the point to Clubsprint in Time Attack. It's kind of completely against the point of the event to run stockish cars. And this is coming from someone who was supposed to be in Clubsprint. It just doesn't feel like it belongs at this event and given the fastest Clubsprint cars were all bloody open class cars anyways, I think if a field of cars ran around in the guise the class was supposed to be then everyone would just look at them and think "why are they here?".

I reckon they'd be better off having more Open cars and splitting 4WD and 2WD categories and giving more reward / focus to good 2WD entries.

So instead of 50 Open class cars and 25 Clubsprint they could have roughly 30 AWD Open and 30 2WD Open cars and scrap Club. Top 5 from each get Pro invites for the following year.

My 2c anyways.

like

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...