Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He said his car was over 20k. So must have been a fair hit for them to write it off.

that doesn't mean the insurance company valued it at that. might've been worth 10 to 15k before it got a nice new paint job, etc.

and if you read my above post where i talked about the damage to my mothers car, it was a 2000 model corolla. the damage was all in one small area and the repair bill was $16,000.

No sympathy from me. Yes the laws are wrong concerning money owing upon a motor vehicle, hence why you do a REVS check.

However, unfortunately it's buyer beware. When you buy a motor vehicle, especially a performance or luxury one, you should be having it checked thoroughly on a hoist.

Look at the bright side of things - at least it's been repaired correctly and passed inspection for registration.....

No sympathy from me. Yes the laws are wrong concerning money owing upon a motor vehicle, hence why you do a REVS check.

However, unfortunately it's buyer beware. When you buy a motor vehicle, especially a performance or luxury one, you should be having it checked thoroughly on a hoist.

Look at the bright side of things - at least it's been repaired correctly and passed inspection for registration.....

REVS is being replaced by DEVA. > Going National

Umm, just wondering if you guys want me to do a thread on this?

He said his car was over 20k. So must have been a fair hit for them to write it off.

Not necessarily, my Stagea was insured for more than that when it was written off.

Had bumper, bonnet, passenger side headlight and quarter panel damage, plus the steering rack was off centre after the accident.

Was written off because it was too difficult to get the same parts/panels I had on it.

What if you buy a car from a dealer? Are they supposed to tell you if it's a repairable write off?

if most only knew the background of that :)

REVS is being replaced by DEVA. > Going National

Umm, just wondering if you guys want me to do a thread on this?

Definitely!!! Keen to hear of changes or anything.

im curious..do tell.

most of the cheaper imports are light wrecks with frontals,rear hits and light side hits. before the gov't started cleaning up the markets that was the only real way to make money quickly. buy a car for 100kyen get it here , fix it , mod it then sell it.

the 32 that I own went throuugh that exact process.. (you are none the wiser.)

most of the light damage cars in pickles,manheim et al are bought by people that do back yard jobs on them. I have been privy to 4-5 myself where they had electrical problems during fixup.

point being here, if you think something is up - get an external inspection. in my case if the car is an auto the first thing I pull on it when looking is the trans fluid stick. if that is a dark brown I walk off.

This repairable Write-off list is a joke....

There is nothing wrong with your car, as a matter of fact it probably has a lot of newer parts on it than most.

Insurance Accesser's are putting cars on that god damn list for no good reason.

There are plenty of dodgy cars that get patched up all the time and people will never know about it or ever be put on the list. ( be glad your in the know)

On the plus side yours has been recognized as such and will be repaired and inspected to be as good as new.

get over it people..... next time do a v-check and if repairable write-off comes up re-negotiate the price to favour you.

  • 4 years later...

Which insurance companies insure repairable write off? I'm curious to kniw if they charge like a wounded bull or refuse to insure.

If the car's are repaired by a good smash repairer and inspected I don't see the issue in buying a repairable write off, guess it's just knowing if the work done was decent and nit dodgy.

Which insurance companies insure repairable write off? I'm curious to kniw if they charge like a wounded bull or refuse to insure.

If the car's are repaired by a good smash repairer and inspected I don't see the issue in buying a repairable write off, guess it's just knowing if the work done was decent and nit dodgy.

ive never been through the process but if the car passes a RWC and gets re-registered, then it should be all good?

When insurance asks "is there any existing damage?" and the answer is actually no, then that should be it?

I bought a motorbike as a registerable wreck..........motor is fine, frame was Ok but trued anyway. I had to buy headlight and gaurds and seat etc and am using wheels from another model but its going to be a good bike once done. So not all registerable wrecks are a disaster.

the only thing the OP has to complain about is he got charged full and not a discount price!!!

Which insurance companies insure repairable write off? I'm curious to kniw if they charge like a wounded bull or refuse to insure.

If the car's are repaired by a good smash repairer and inspected I don't see the issue in buying a repairable write off, guess it's just knowing if the work done was decent and nit dodgy.

in nsw, it's the rms that won't let registration complete due to being a repairable write off.

I believe they changed the laws due to dodgy workmanship, and inspections.

Try finding a straight 180sx be it local or recently imported. 99% of them would have taken a hit at some point. Geeeez don't mention to the OP about doing a online Japanese speedo check. So what can be learned from this thread? Do your homework & know your product. Be a bad student, pay someone else to do your homework.

Which insurance companies insure repairable write off? I'm curious to kniw if they charge like a wounded bull or refuse to insure.

If the car's are repaired by a good smash repairer and inspected I don't see the issue in buying a repairable write off, guess it's just knowing if the work done was decent and nit dodgy.

You must have dug hard for this thread. From 2012

This post is for you people who have no foresight.

I find it ridiculous that people don't type their own receipt and get the seller to sign it with a witness. In that same piece of paper it should have said xxxk's are true, no accident history of their knowledge, time and date because of fines and speed cameras, etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...