Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
I was looking at a set of Nismo Lm Gt4 (18 X 8.5 +25, 18 X 9.5 +30) for a GTT
Will they fit inside the guards or poke out? Will they need to be rolled?

i have exact same wheels and offset. They fit perfectly i had to roll my rear guards to run a 275 tyre at the back. Does scrub on quick full lock nothing major. Ill post pics or check in my thread if your in a hurry

  • 3 weeks later...

about to get some wheels for my r34 GTT, just wondering if I'll have any problems with (front) 18x9.5 +18 (rear) 18x10 +15? thinking im gonna need some guard work.

Yes, you would need camber + guard work... those sizes are GTR sizing

lol.. TM7GTR I'm not mad bro :P

They actually fit, but the rears do need a small roll - they occasionally scrape if going over bumps in the road.

Here are some pics with the new wheels fitted18x9.5 front 18x10.5 rear.

DSC_5381.jpg

DSC_5372.jpg

what is the name of those rims? anyone know???

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

im about to purchase some new wheels and am after some advice of other 34 owners,

the rims i previously had on were F - 18x9+15 & R - 18x10+15

but they needed the rear guards rolled and more camber in the rear to sit flush and be legal (rear lip was about 20mm out)

IMG_2383_zps47577159.jpg

im planning to get the same size but larger offsets, F 27 & R 35 because i want to lower the car another inch or so,

basically im wondering what if any advantages there are of running a higher offset compared to a smaller rim or if i should just stick with the old offset and run more camber and flair the rear guards slightly to fit them

Shoujiki that looks mint!

Bit of a hijack here also. Looking at Koya Drift Teks in a 18x8.5 +30 Front and 18x9.5 +38 rears. From what i believe i wont need to do much (if at all) to fit those in nicely.

Theyre very similar to the LM GT4 in regards to offsets from what ive heard.

Spare me the "buy better wheels speech" as its literally not an option :P (as much as i wish i could wait, need to be able to drive asap hehe )

Not at all really. Turns in like it's on rails. Also have Whiteline F+R adjustable sway bars and Tein Super Street coils in it, so that may help.

If you look on the Nismo website under applications for the LMGT4 wheel, the specs I have is what Nismo recommend as perfect fit and performance for the RWD platform.

Yeah sweet i cant imagine there would ultimately be much difference between the wheels.

I have $2K BC coilovers so we're in the same vote kinda.

Might do 18x8.5 +30 fronts and 18x9.5 +38 rears :)

Will post photos when they are on :)

what would be better fitment, i have GTR front fenders and am planing to roll/flair the rear a little

18x9 + 15

18x10 + 15

or

18x9 + 27

18x10 + 35

(235 all round as i already have tires in that size)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...