Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I need some advice. I am going to start doing some track days for fun, maybe the NSW Super Sprint series next year.
I have a set of 16" wheels which would be suitable to use, but I'd be restricted to a 225/45 or 225/50 r16 tyre size.

Is this a disadvantage at all compared to using a 235/45r17 tyre? This would mean I would need to buy new wheels as well as tyres.

The 16" tyres are generally a little bit cheaper too, in Kumho V70A or similar as discussed in this thread.

Is it OK to stick with my 16" wheels and buy some tyres, or am I better moving to a 17" and bigger tyre from the start?
Thanks very much.

Edit:
Car is S14 Silvia with stock engine/power. At best I will have coilovers, that's about all.

the most important thing about a tyre is....can you afford to buy it :)

wider tyres in the same brand and compound would almost always be faster. but the difference may not be worth the money.

even weirder is that same width tyres for larger rims are more expensive. (eg 235/16 vs 235/18) despite there being less rubber. :wacko:

As "the checkout" would say......SCAM!

  • 4 weeks later...

It may well be a scam, but consider this. The 18 inch option will out sell the 16 inch option say for arguments sake 20:1. The cost of the 16 inch is higher therefore becaus the factory has to stop production of the 18, retool the machines to cast 16s in a small amount. Therefore the costs are higher. Economy of scale.

The exact same thing happens with brake pads. Do a set of racing pads have triple the cost of materials in it than a set of boggo stocks? Nup, but the producer has to stop production of the pads that sell 98% of the market, and start making "Motorsport" pads.

  • 1 month later...

The best bang for buck atm imo is the Hankook Z214 2 groove tyres. Not a true semi though, so it depends if what you do allows them to be used.

They're cheap (similar to the FZ201s were in 17" sizes) and extremely quick.

Otherwise, in true semi slicks, there is probably no standout bang for buck options. The cheap options like Toyo and Nitto are lower performance than the FZ201s were, and the fast rubber like Hankook, Yokohama and Dunlop are more expensive. The Hankook Z221 is probably the fastest true semi available now, and its cheaper than the Yokohama and Dunlop rivals so it's probably the best value.

I didn't mention Kumho because they seem a bit hit and miss - on cars they suit they are really fast, on cars they don't suit they're just average, and on some cars they tend to delaminate or blowout - like my 180SX using the same geometry that the R888 and FZ201 didn't have any dramas with.

So far I only be doing track days and the odd super sprint. Would I get knocked back with the Z214's at a supersprint?

And where are you buying your tyres from?

And would these be ok for competition?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+Cup&partnum=635YR8SPORTCUP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Track days are unlikely to have any problem with them.

Supersprints - depends. NSW supersprints have their own rules which are very different to the rest of the country.

the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyres... I don't know anyone who buys them for motorsport here. Can't say what they'd actually be like. I think they're OE on some Porsches though. Maybe talk to someone in a Porsche Club at sprints?

I liked them. Were on my mx5 and tyres before we're r888s

Best I could do with r888s was a 1.13.7 at wakie then with same mods a 1.12.3 on the v70s

Lasted over a year (bought them around may 2012) and did 9 race meets

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got a set of 245/40 R18 Nitto NT01's tracked once on my Soarer. And by once I mean one 5 lap session before the car had a problem and I had to park it. I'll sell them for $950 the set of 4 + freight. Can get pics tonight. Happy to drop them at an e-go depot.

I'm building a Datsun track car now and have no real need or desire to track the Soarer anymore, and 18s aren't going to be any good for my 120Y!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...