Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
On 28/07/2016 at 11:19 AM, hrd-hr30 said:

Seems to be the Hankook Soft that goes off quickly with heat cycles. The Z214 Medium cycles very well, if Nev's experience with them over a couple of years is anything to go by.

FWIW, Nankangs ran 60.2 at Lakeside yesterday. That's 1.1sec faster than NT01 and less than 4 tenths slower than the Hankook Soft PB. Not bad for cheap rubbish in a medium compound vs probably the fastest semi available. Hell, they make NT01s look expensive! 

Not alot of options for anything wider than a 255 in 17" wheels

Was considering some Nitto 275 NT01 all around, but the Nankang AR1 255 all around might be a better option harry? Can anyone recommend a seller for the Nankang AR1 in Brisbane? or interstate even?

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone tried Achilles tyres? I have run a set of 123s and the newer atr K sport on my 33. The k sports seemed to hold up better than the 123s which were super sticky but just fell apart after a few track days. I've done 5 track days and a few thousand k's on the ksports which are now worn out. Overall I'm fairly happy with them for the price, I think they were about $1100 a set; 245 40 18 and 265 35 18 on the rear. 
Just wondering how they compare to the Nankang Ar1s and Nitto NT01?
I'm particularly interested how they hold up on a heavier car as I will be getting a 33 GTR soon.

I tried the 123s as well, only lasted 2 track days and maybe 2000km, would not buy again. Have also run ad08r, 2 track days, 15k street km and still going well above 65% tread. I now have a set of track wheels with Nankang ar1, 3 track days done and look to easily have at least another 5 days in them. They grip well from cold, last well and where cheap at $205 fitted for 265/35/18. Would be an interesting comparison with the achilles semi.

 

I wouldn't use the AR1 as a street tyre though.

 

 

Hankook Z221 in medium will last me over a year thrashing and still perform even when worn! The last set i ran from late 2016 to the end of 2017 which i worked out was probably 300-400 laps... Same tyres still did a 1.39 at EC and then blew a front the next session lol....

A mate is importing container loads of the ZESTINO tyres and getting good reviews, ill be testing their competition Semi Slick in April at this stage which is between a slick and semi... They also do the street semis which are cheap and apparently comparable to the Z222 from Hankook... Main thing is,. they are CHEAP!

I think his page is K Racing on Facebook but if anyone wants more info just PM me and ill get you in contact!

  • 1 month later...

AR1 update from me. 

I am progressively going faster and resetting my PB as the weather cools off, seems it was a bit unfair to buy the AR1 in summer and expect 2 secs straight up vs the old ones in cooler weather.  

They do wear faster than the RS-R I had and are very sensitive to pressures/heat soak. Seemingly preferring high pressures but at the same time needing to be cooled after a few hot laps with the higher pressures and camber. 

I've done 3 track days, only a few hundred k's and already they are on the tread indicators - but those first 2 days were in 35deg heat and one of those days i had busted rear sway bar end links and slide all over the place, torching the tyres in the process and still managed a small PB. 

I will either move to better semis next or look at what options I have in slicks for next season to coincide with an engine swap/power upgrade. 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Where to after AR1s? Better semis or slicks? 

I was thinking full slicks to handle the extra grunt from an engine swap end of this year, but my problem is space. 

I don't like the big 45-50mm flares so I only fitted 25-30mm and that looks perfect with a 9" rim 255 tyre and -3.5 front camber (don't have heaps of shock clearance left). 

To go wider would mean more "poke" so what would be the next step in better semis, and if slicks, I don't fully get slick sizing so help would be great :)

better quality semi's ? Hankook's the next step up in quality and price.

my experience with AR1's to new set of 050's is circa 1 - 1.5 sec difference over a 61 - 62 sec lap

never been involved in full slicks before but would think unless go full soft option getting heat into them to take full advantage would be a problem then at the proper soft level they would last long  at all !??

Edited by bcozican

Guys in the club using mediums without issue, though they can struggle in a top 10 shoot out (1x warm up, 1x hot lap only)

but they are getting them second hand for $200 a set as they all run 18x10 on skylines or with heaps of guard work in anything else.  

  • 1 year later...

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

15 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

Blair's Tyre Service Cabramatta, I have had 2x 255/40/18 fitted for under $500 (will need to dig up receipt) last year... hence, "have had".. not sure if Coronavirus has inflated the prices yet lol

  • Like 2

I've had a set of these on for the last 6 months or so - http://sailuntyre.eu/plt/R01-SPORT.html

Did the Adelaide Rally with them, and weekend driving etc. Pretty impressed, have a few track days coming up and will update

Cost effective at around $130 fitted for 235/40/18

3 hours ago, Chris32 said:

I've had a set of these on for the last 6 months or so - http://sailuntyre.eu/plt/R01-SPORT.html

Did the Adelaide Rally with them, and weekend driving etc. Pretty impressed, have a few track days coming up and will update

Cost effective at around $130 fitted for 235/40/18

Tread pattern almost looks like Ad08r

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...