Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
On 28/07/2016 at 11:19 AM, hrd-hr30 said:

Seems to be the Hankook Soft that goes off quickly with heat cycles. The Z214 Medium cycles very well, if Nev's experience with them over a couple of years is anything to go by.

FWIW, Nankangs ran 60.2 at Lakeside yesterday. That's 1.1sec faster than NT01 and less than 4 tenths slower than the Hankook Soft PB. Not bad for cheap rubbish in a medium compound vs probably the fastest semi available. Hell, they make NT01s look expensive! 

Not alot of options for anything wider than a 255 in 17" wheels

Was considering some Nitto 275 NT01 all around, but the Nankang AR1 255 all around might be a better option harry? Can anyone recommend a seller for the Nankang AR1 in Brisbane? or interstate even?

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone tried Achilles tyres? I have run a set of 123s and the newer atr K sport on my 33. The k sports seemed to hold up better than the 123s which were super sticky but just fell apart after a few track days. I've done 5 track days and a few thousand k's on the ksports which are now worn out. Overall I'm fairly happy with them for the price, I think they were about $1100 a set; 245 40 18 and 265 35 18 on the rear. 
Just wondering how they compare to the Nankang Ar1s and Nitto NT01?
I'm particularly interested how they hold up on a heavier car as I will be getting a 33 GTR soon.

I tried the 123s as well, only lasted 2 track days and maybe 2000km, would not buy again. Have also run ad08r, 2 track days, 15k street km and still going well above 65% tread. I now have a set of track wheels with Nankang ar1, 3 track days done and look to easily have at least another 5 days in them. They grip well from cold, last well and where cheap at $205 fitted for 265/35/18. Would be an interesting comparison with the achilles semi.

 

I wouldn't use the AR1 as a street tyre though.

 

 

Hankook Z221 in medium will last me over a year thrashing and still perform even when worn! The last set i ran from late 2016 to the end of 2017 which i worked out was probably 300-400 laps... Same tyres still did a 1.39 at EC and then blew a front the next session lol....

A mate is importing container loads of the ZESTINO tyres and getting good reviews, ill be testing their competition Semi Slick in April at this stage which is between a slick and semi... They also do the street semis which are cheap and apparently comparable to the Z222 from Hankook... Main thing is,. they are CHEAP!

I think his page is K Racing on Facebook but if anyone wants more info just PM me and ill get you in contact!

  • 1 month later...

AR1 update from me. 

I am progressively going faster and resetting my PB as the weather cools off, seems it was a bit unfair to buy the AR1 in summer and expect 2 secs straight up vs the old ones in cooler weather.  

They do wear faster than the RS-R I had and are very sensitive to pressures/heat soak. Seemingly preferring high pressures but at the same time needing to be cooled after a few hot laps with the higher pressures and camber. 

I've done 3 track days, only a few hundred k's and already they are on the tread indicators - but those first 2 days were in 35deg heat and one of those days i had busted rear sway bar end links and slide all over the place, torching the tyres in the process and still managed a small PB. 

I will either move to better semis next or look at what options I have in slicks for next season to coincide with an engine swap/power upgrade. 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Where to after AR1s? Better semis or slicks? 

I was thinking full slicks to handle the extra grunt from an engine swap end of this year, but my problem is space. 

I don't like the big 45-50mm flares so I only fitted 25-30mm and that looks perfect with a 9" rim 255 tyre and -3.5 front camber (don't have heaps of shock clearance left). 

To go wider would mean more "poke" so what would be the next step in better semis, and if slicks, I don't fully get slick sizing so help would be great :)

better quality semi's ? Hankook's the next step up in quality and price.

my experience with AR1's to new set of 050's is circa 1 - 1.5 sec difference over a 61 - 62 sec lap

never been involved in full slicks before but would think unless go full soft option getting heat into them to take full advantage would be a problem then at the proper soft level they would last long  at all !??

Edited by bcozican

Guys in the club using mediums without issue, though they can struggle in a top 10 shoot out (1x warm up, 1x hot lap only)

but they are getting them second hand for $200 a set as they all run 18x10 on skylines or with heaps of guard work in anything else.  

  • 1 year later...

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

15 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

Blair's Tyre Service Cabramatta, I have had 2x 255/40/18 fitted for under $500 (will need to dig up receipt) last year... hence, "have had".. not sure if Coronavirus has inflated the prices yet lol

  • Like 2

I've had a set of these on for the last 6 months or so - http://sailuntyre.eu/plt/R01-SPORT.html

Did the Adelaide Rally with them, and weekend driving etc. Pretty impressed, have a few track days coming up and will update

Cost effective at around $130 fitted for 235/40/18

3 hours ago, Chris32 said:

I've had a set of these on for the last 6 months or so - http://sailuntyre.eu/plt/R01-SPORT.html

Did the Adelaide Rally with them, and weekend driving etc. Pretty impressed, have a few track days coming up and will update

Cost effective at around $130 fitted for 235/40/18

Tread pattern almost looks like Ad08r

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...