Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for a new clutch, i already have a jim berry full monty and i hate it, i have already worn the pucks out trying to drive it normally on the street, i want something that drives like the exedy hd i use to have, i was thinking a hd button or hd cushion button or sports organic, i need one early this week so npc is also out of the question, max power will probably be about 300rwkw, doubt i will be doing in drift but i will be doing a track day or 2.

so what do you have that drives normal and holds around 300rwkw?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402176-what-clutch-do-you-have/
Share on other sites

i have a NPC Bigmouth clutch with 3800-3900 lbs clamp im at 350kws so far and handles 3rd gear clutch kick no problem. cost me $740 and took 2 days to get to me. drives like a stocker pretty much, lighter then stock pedal feel.

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/ thats the website

Edited by nick81xd

i have a NPC Bigmouth clutch with 3800-3900 lbs clamp im at 350kws so far and handles 3rd gear clutch kick no problem. cost me $740 and took 2 days to get to me. drives like a stocker pretty much, lighter then stock pedal feel.

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/ thats the website

So it slips like a stocker when taking off in traffic? the jim berry i have now has 4000lbs of clamping force and is an absolute prick to get off the line unless you dump it, the one thing that might be differnt is that the jim berry only has 6mm (i think thats what was written on it) of travel, makes it very hard to slip.

So it slips like a stocker when taking off in traffic? the jim berry i have now has 4000lbs of clamping force and is an absolute prick to get off the line unless you dump it, the one thing that might be differnt is that the jim berry only has 6mm (i think thats what was written on it) of travel, makes it very hard to slip.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

+1

A few days of practice and you can drive them great off the line. Good to see so many happy NPC customers here

I have the 10" Sprung button NPC Clutch + Lightweight billet flywheel. Would never consider anything else now. Been a faultless performer for over 2 years

i have a bastardised JB Full Monty. Got a stock flywheel, 300zx plate and cover and 5500 clamp, jim was saying its slightly larger than the stock plate and cover. It shudders like a bitch when its cold, but as soon as its 5 minutes in on the drive its like a normal clutch. It can catch a few people off guard but only took me 25 mins max to sort it out.

i have a bastardised JB Full Monty. Got a stock flywheel, 300zx plate and cover and 5500 clamp, jim was saying its slightly larger than the stock plate and cover. It shudders like a bitch when its cold, but as soon as its 5 minutes in on the drive its like a normal clutch. It can catch a few people off guard but only took me 25 mins max to sort it out.

mine shudders all the time, its just not traffic friendly, was actually nice when i first put it in but once it bed in it was a prick.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

Brett i got one of these 10" carbotics fitted too, can be a little bitey off the line, but you get used to it pretty quick and seems to be getting better the more I drive it..only has 3-400kms on it...the rest of the time its extremely civilized with heaps of bite...

Also, while JB recomends the stock flywheel , I belive NPC recommend there lightened one as it has cooling channels in it..this stops it getting hot when stop starting in traffic which could be part of your problem....This will cost you another 400 or so tho..

I send you a pM bud :thumbsup:

I have a jb full Monty carbotic and I have absolutely no trouble driving it on a daily basis. It was pretty close to the floor initially, but Dvs Jez adjusted the freeplay on the clutch when I was getting a tune and it was heaps better to drive after that.

I have a JB Full monty carbotic with 4100 lbs of clamping force for my RB25/30DET + GT3076R.

Its drivable, but DEFINATELY not slippable off the line like a few other clutches I have driven. It also shudders like crazy if you do slip it. After all the hype about them on here, I have to say I was disappointed with the end result. Makes the car far less of a street friendly car.

I was contemplating going a Nismo Coppermix twin plate or an NPC 10". But at 700-1900 dollar expense, it's something I dont want to do just now considering I need a new diff aswell.

Edited by R32Abuser

I have a KB Clutch Engineering clutch, 6 puck ceramic sprung button centre (exedy) and a 1300kg pressure plate, I forget what material it's made of, but not organic. It was $420 including delivery. Been through 3 drift days so far, feels fantastic and very light on the foot. Never slipped, had many series of 3-4 clutch dumps from high 3rd gear rpm (stock rb30) and never changed the feel, hasn't heated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...