Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

simon you still running standard valve springs?

suprised your not getting valve float on that boost and with bigger cams

As far as I'm aware they are standard, the Japs put the Grex cams in back in the day and they are only 9.1mm so only babies in terms of lift. Have never thought to check valve springs but I highly doubt it, they didn't even put aftermarket head studs in, just wacked the cams and head gasket in.

I was more worried about head float after the standard head bolts stretched :)

Me like-y, very much. R33 bottom end or R32?

Same motor that came with the car in 1991 (R32) but it's a very low km example... Done 46,000kms

Edited by SimonR32
  • 4 weeks later...

Pretty much same setup as the 8.97sec pass as before a few changes likenew fuel system and Upgraded head components have also switched to Methanol Fuel. Also dropped 140KG out of car now weighs 1280KG. We are currently running estimate 850-900 KW at the wheels.

Best ET is a 8.39 Seconds at 164MPH with a slow 1.3sec 60FT on Mickey Thompson Street Radials, currently makes us the Worlds Fastest street Radial Tyre RB Powered GTR, and also the Worlds Fastest H-Pattern Radial Tyre GTR. Only cars left to beat is the AMS R35 GTR which done a 8.28sec on Radials and 7.98Sec on slicks. Both those time are achievable with our current setup. The car is still not setup a 100% with its new systems a bit more fine tuning.

-HKS T62R Turbo
-Jun 2.7lt Stroker kit with Custom 86mm CP Pistons. Godzilla Spec Engine.
-Godzilla Motorsport Race Head
-Custom Godzilla Camshafts (Top-secret Classified Info)
-Full Supertech Valvetrain
-Hypertune Plenum with 4" Throttle Body
-ARE 150mm Intercooler
-Trust Exhaust Manifold with 50mm Wastegate
-Moran 5000cc Injectors
-Vipec V88
-M & W CDI Ignition with Weapon X CDI Coils
- Aeromotive Mechanical Fuel Pump
-Peterson 4 stage Dry Sump Setup
-4 Inch Custom Titanium Side Pipe
-NPC Twin Plate Clutch
-PPG 5 Speed Dogbox with Ignition Cut.

+ a lot more

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNLs_gONSQ8#t=1

  • Like 2

Pretty much same setup as the 8.97sec pass as before a few changes likenew fuel system and Upgraded head components have also switched to Methanol Fuel. Also dropped 140KG out of car now weighs 1280KG. We are currently running estimate 850-900 KW at the wheels.

Best ET is a 8.39 Seconds at 164MPH with a slow 1.3sec 60FT on Mickey Thompson Street Radials, currently makes us the Worlds Fastest street Radial Tyre RB Powered GTR, and also the Worlds Fastest H-Pattern Radial Tyre GTR. Only cars left to beat is the AMS R35 GTR which done a 8.28sec on Radials and 7.98Sec on slicks. Both those time are achievable with our current setup. The car is still not setup a 100% with its new systems a bit more fine tuning.

-HKS T62R Turbo

-Jun 2.7lt Stroker kit with Custom 86mm CP Pistons. Godzilla Spec Engine.

-Godzilla Motorsport Race Head

-Custom Godzilla Camshafts (Top-secret Classified Info)

-Full Supertech Valvetrain

-Hypertune Plenum with 4" Throttle Body

-ARE 150mm Intercooler

-Trust Exhaust Manifold with 50mm Wastegate

-Moran 5000cc Injectors

-Vipec V88

-M & W CDI Ignition with Weapon X CDI Coils

- Aeromotive Mechanical Fuel Pump

-Peterson 4 stage Dry Sump Setup

-4 Inch Custom Titanium Side Pipe

-NPC Twin Plate Clutch

-PPG 5 Speed Dogbox with Ignition Cut.

+ a lot more

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNLs_gONSQ8#t=1

if you dont mind, what are you using to cut ignition on changes?

if gearknob, what brand, or do you have name of supplier?

cam pm if you want.

thanks, luke.

  • 2 years later...

Joined the 500Kw+ club today with the V3 prototype of my engine. This was the power goal that I had hoped for, as it is designed to be a torque monster with the maximum possible low end performance.

The tune is on E85 (75% content after the 98 octane tune), and was done in Cairns in 33 degree heat at 82% humidity.

Open Deck Engines 3.4lt (3360cc) Block (Rb26 24U based block)

Tomei Spec 2 head, Step 2 cams.

Precision 6466CEA 1.0

Full Race manifold with twin tial gates.

4" turbo back, 90mm Trust TI-R titanium exhaust

Greddy intake plenum

Nismo Intercooler

NPC twin plate

Haltech with IO expander, doing fuel pump and auxillary cooling system control

PWR 55mm twin pass radiator and custom oil-water heat exchanger, plus auxillary rear mount radiator and remote coolant pump.

Ignition project plazma coils

Completely enclosed crankcase breather system, designed to pull the engine into a vacuum under boost.

post-26553-0-68742100-1449997356_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Completely enclosed crankcase breather system, designed to pull the engine into a vacuum under boost.

Vented back to between the air filter and turbo and running a exhaust vacuum source with check valve?

Vented back to between the air filter and turbo and running a exhaust vacuum source with check valve?

No check valve, and no exhaust vacuum interaction. Pulls vacuum from the sump and head via a baffle system, to a ventrui on the intake between the turbo and filter. Any oil that enters the system returns to sump like a nismo setup, but at an elevated temperature to boil out any water vapor.

  • Like 1

No check valve, and no exhaust vacuum interaction. Pulls vacuum from the sump and head via a baffle system, to a ventrui on the intake between the turbo and filter. Any oil that enters the system returns to sump like a nismo setup, but at an elevated temperature to boil out any water vapor.

Have you measured how much Vacuum your pulling in the sump, or are you just managing to pull blowby?

We were preparing to hand make a venturi between the turbo and filter, a few people suggested i look into the exhaust scavenging setups but my thoughts were that it may not work as well on a turbo setup as it does for the V8 guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...