Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMG_8180.JPG

Are you sure the rotors are on the right way? Reason i asked is because i have the same rotors and mine are the other way, i double checked it seems like the vains on the pmu scr pro rotors follow the direction of the slids...

i though the vain is suppose to go the rear? it goes from the center of the rotor then out or its the other way?

Air should be coming from center of rotor to outer rotor

disc_rotation.jpg

Edited by ichi-go

that dosnt make sence to my brain, surly it should be sweeping outwards not draggin inwards?

I would tend to agree by looking at the design. Disc designers are a lot smarter than me however...

I guess it must act as a vacuum by creating a low pressure zone outside the vanes which draws the hot air out from the centre of the disc outwards. Makes sense in that it evacuates the hot air and dust away from the centre of the disc.

the vanes would work exactly how a turbo works

sucks in cool air from the centre, and propels it using centripetal acceleration (flings it outwards)

having them curved just helps draw the air through the disc

Vanes are the ones on the inside that pump air. They should sweep backwards.

Grooves are on the outside and remove pad dust etc. It doesnt matter which way they go.

You orientate the rotor for the vanes, not the grooves.

As an aside the Project Mu rotors dont have proper vanes anyway so this stuff doesnt matter very much.

Flat out getting this car finished guys, most fluids are in and 50% of interior left to put back in

Photos will come as soon as I can

NEED SOME HELP PLEASE GUYS.......CAN ANYONE HELP WITH FACTORY NISSAN PLACEMENT/MEASUREMENTS OF ALL THE BADGES/EMBLEMS???

NEED TO FIGURE IT OUT THIS WEEK!!!

Cheers

Insane work, well done... Going to be so bad driving on the road for the first time, I bet you will be able to hear every single bit of sand and dirt hitting the undercarriage :(

Thanks Simon, maybe...but there will be so many other epic noises!

Well I think we can safely say thread is delivering on title as promised...

How many tooth brushes have you gone through to get it to this state???? :) How on earth did you get the plugs, wiring, hose clamps so clean... man!

Love the dedication well done.

Cheers Paul. Mate I am well and truly over cleaning I can tell you that.

This car should not be driven. It should be stored in a garage that is cleaner than a laboratory

Ha Bryce, I don't have that level of will power!! I NEED to drive it.

Coming along nicely love checking in and seeing the progress every week. Seriously though buy another one to drive and wrap this one up to neat to ruin.

Thanks mate. With everything I have learnt I think I will need to buy another one to restore and not drive, one day....

robbie will you ever sell it haha?

Don't think so but you never know right

great thread.

Cheers Paul

Looks too good to take out on the street now :yes: Top work!

Thanks mate. Knees will buckle haha

Jus finished reading this thread from page 1. Superb job so far, cant wait to see this through.

Nice. It's nearly there, just need to get the time to get photos up!

Nice build Robbie, can't wait to see the before and after picture. Yay! Can't really wait to see the final output. Keep up the good work and Goodluck! Will follow this thread. :no:

Cheers! Shouldn't be long now mate. I really wish I had the foresight to take more photos of the car before ripping into it...

Power output figure will be interesting

Rear Nismo bushes and rest of OEM front ball joints in

IMG_8324.JPG

IMG_8330.JPG

Billet spacer installed

IMG_8310.JPG

Making up AFM adaptors

IMG_8319.JPG

Brand new OEM BM57 BMC and stopper done

IMG_8336.JPG

IMG_8337.JPG

IMG_8341.JPG

P/steer in and belts on

IMG_8349.JPG

Cooler top brackets in

IMG_8355.JPG

Fitting up radiator

IMG_8385.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...