Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds good!  Glad to hear you're happy with yours.

I liked the design of the Sinco over the 6Boost the way they run full split wastegates (one pipe off each half of the manifold then merging into one and even once merged it's still split all the way to the wastegate valve face.  Shouldn't lose any of the split pulse benefits that way.

I have zero doubt that the 6Boost would still do an amazing job but decided to go this way for something a bit different!

22 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

I liked the design of the Sinco over the 6Boost the way they run full split wastegates (one pipe off each half of the manifold then merging into one and even once merged it's still split all the way to the wastegate valve face.  Shouldn't lose any of the split pulse benefits that way.

Same reason why I went with Sinco, because it's a true twin scroll manifold not like the 6Boost ones or similar.

So much Sinco love ??? ha ha!

The flanges are super solid,  5 year no crack warranty,  can't go wrong!

I must say I do rate you sheep shaggers as great fabricators! Rob from Racefab in NZ made my extended sump which is also a great piece of workmanship. 

Some very talented and alternate thinking guys there. 

While I'm throwing out the compliments  it's a bloody beautiful country. If anyone reading this (all 3 of you ??) hasn't been then get your arse over there, it's stunning at every angle. Queenstown is one of my favourite parts of the world. 

Right, enough love, time for an NZ joke to square things up...

  • Like 1

Been to NZ twice already, great place - but one mofo who walked past us at Ferg Burger and made a snide remark "Oh looks like China is here" (I'm Asian but born here), so I stood up and and said asked politely "what the f did you just say?" and walked towards him. His mates were smart and dragged him away.

Other than that, pretty good experiences both times.

1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

If anyone reading this (all 3 of you ??) hasn't been then get your arse over there, it's stunning at every angle.

A few of your regular readers are kiwis...

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

"Oh looks like China is here"

There are dickheads in every country and NZ is no exception

Hell yeah, I love it! 

I told the missus I was going to hang it on the wall in the living room for a few months as a work of art.

Strangely enough she wasn't convinced. 

My 6 year old daughter told me "that's not art daddy, that's ugly"!  Ha ha, bloody kids!

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Ooooooo mummy....

Just mocking it all up for now to work out how much of a nightmare the exhaust is going to be....

20191009_213013.jpg

 

... annnnd I'm done :o

Turbo, manifold and block are probably similar enough to this to get some ideas: 

 

I read that post @Lithium but I didn't realise he was running Sinco too. Should be quite similar in design. I probably wasn't going to go that far back to bring the waste gate pipe back into the exhaust. Is there a preferable distance back from the turbo that works any better? I was probably thinking of bringing it back in at the bottom bend something like this-

20140713_190737.jpg

3 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

I read that post @Lithium but I didn't realise he was running Sinco too. Should be quite similar in design. I probably wasn't going to go that far back to bring the waste gate pipe back into the exhaust. Is there a preferable distance back from the turbo that works any better? I was probably thinking of bringing it back in at the bottom bend something like this

Yeah, definitely Sinco and I'd say the same design - just for an RB25 NVCS head instead, and different coating.  Works really well.

In all honestly without having hard data etc I won't stamp my foot down with any strong opinion on the merge location, with gas flow where possible I like the idea of not stacking up too many "events" which can cause turbulence at one point as that can increase drag and slow down flow - both a bend and also a merge are sources of turbulence, so I guess at that bend there could be quite a bit happening compared to if the gases just have to take a bend then have a merge after the  fact but really I have no idea if or what the significance of that is... or if there are other things which could compromise spreading it out like how the sedan has it.

For what it's worth, the sedan is running a .4bar spring and experiences slight boost creep after a decent pull on wastegate boost - reaching maybe 8-9psi at full rpm if given enough time to, but it can hold 10psi dead flat.   The setup certainly flows well, though.

 

Looks great but i think I'll be plumbing it back in as soon as possible while still following the basic principal of coming back in on a nice angle as opposed to at 90 degrees.

 

 

For some reason I read my very first page of this build page and below is one comment that stood out.

It's good that I know myself!  That was almost 7 years ago (December 2012) I wrote that.  I must have had crystal ball!!!  Either that or I'm just shit at finishing things off....

 

 

Way back.JPG

  • Like 1

Hey mate, cheers for that.  Your mate did a good job!  I'm an absolute TIG noob so will take me ages to do what probably took him not long at all!  There will be a lot of measuring, cutting and grinding and it still won't end up looking as good as yours!!

Doesn't matter, as long as it works and doesn't look like cocky shit I'll be happy enough!

Enjoy driving your beast, hopefully not too far away till I get to do the same with mine.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...