Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the time I was happy to buy a clean mostly std 96 without ABS , just more crud you can't legally remove and expensive boxes that can fail . Couldn't escape the drivers handbags though .

If I had to rebuild a 25 short I'd use Neo style rods pistons and lid .

A .

Nope, though I personally wouldn't go for the HTA2868 twins that are available - I doubt the combination would match up overly well to an RB... especially when squeezed into those little housings. Owen Developments sell them though, and someone installed a pair on his GTR but then had an engine failure which set him back something fierce so not sure if or when that will be back together. It seems folly to me to try and push past the "-5s" flow at this stage in those housings, I guess the closest to a setup like that which I would like to see would be more like upgrading low mount T517Zs to use the 68HTA wheels, probably less likely to surge and generally be a better match.

Fair point. I had a feeling that little rear housing would/is the bottle neck. -5's it is then!

Fair point. I had a feeling that little rear housing would/is the bottle neck. -5's it is then!

What would be nice would be an HTA equivalent of -9s IMHO, something that flowed a bit more than -5s but spooled better than any low mount bolton option currently available. Wonder if the would bite :-D

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

ata-cid='6899132' name='Piggaz' timestamp='1371733825' post='6899132']

What would be nice would be an HTA equivalent of -9s IMHO, something that flowed a bit more than -5s but spooled better than any low mount bolton option currently available. Wonder if the would bite :-D

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

I actually thought something along those lines after i posted it. Same peak figure flow of a -5, just come on even earlier. I would be so down for that!!!!!

I actually thought something along those lines after i posted it. Same peak figure flow of a -5, just come on even earlier. I would be so down for that!!!!!

Never satisfied :P

Don't even know if they make something like that.

Nothing really has happened for the low mount GTR setup for years.

Unless you have a 35gtr :ph34r: they have been making some crazy numbers lately with the HTAs

Don't even know if they make something like that.

Nothing really has happened for the low mount GTR setup for years.

Because going to a bigger single is winning - and it seems people are more keen on winning these days :D Twin scroll HTA3586 would go nicely! ;)

Because going to a bigger single is winning - and it seems people are more keen on winning these days :D Twin scroll HTA3586 would go nicely! ;)

I have no doubt that a well matched single would yield a better result... Just can't give up the "standard look" :/

^ just black everything like Mat, for ninja stealth look lol

Lol i think Paul killed mine in terms of the stock look..... But mine is :ph34r: spec..... I was originally going to do the front housing of the turbo BUT it looks too good and i am kidding myself if i think i can hide it :laugh:

Yours looks more stock than most RB25DET engine bays, defect free I guess?

then again it depends on the copper :)

I've been pulled over in my shitbox and popped the hood. I told the copper it's stock and he was like yeah it looks pretty stock to me, close bonnet.. happy days.

Maybe the stock airbox saved me from a defect, hopefully be getting turbo/manifold by Q3 after my tax returns hehe

A low mounted 6boost I think could almost get away with it, I just need a heatshield made up and it will come as close as it gets I think.

If you are fouling the front housing on the 3037 then the HTA version wouldn't have much chance as it has a bigger front cover again, i should have got a side by side pic but i didn't think of it at the time!

If you are fouling the front housing on the 3037 then the HTA version wouldn't have much chance as it has a bigger front cover again, i should have got a side by side pic but i didn't think of it at the time!

I even asked you to :P On that note, DYNO PLOTS???!!! :P

I think it could be done, engine mount moved/modded but its a PITA

You have done an epic job! Hurry up and get results ;)

I even asked you to :P On that note, DYNO PLOTS???!!! :P

Did you? Oops...

I sent an email and Adam will do it when he gets a chance :) You waited this long, so wait some more hehehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...