Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get a set of pmu clubracers and you cant go wrong. They have heaps of bite when cold so you can use them on the street with no problems

LOL, i bet you have ABS :)

I cant drive with bitey pads like some Hawks and Endless CCR. I just forever lock up and flat spot tyres :(

Lap 1

IMG_0306.JPG

Lap 2

IMG_0322.JPG

Lap 3

IMG_0333.JPG

Lap 4

IMG_0338.JPG

= SQUARE TYRES and reverting back to RB74 sporty street pads :)

I'm just about to do Phillip Island this weekend in my 32 GT-R with standard brakes and A1RM pads. Anyone have any idea of how they'll hold up at the island.

They were pretty average at Winton as they started to fade trying to pull up after the straights.

Do you have ducting for the front brakes? If not, throw some on there, will help.

LOL, i bet you have ABS :)

I cant drive with bitey pads like some Hawks and Endless CCR. I just forever lock up and flat spot tyres :(

Lap 1

Lap 2

IMG_0322.JPG

= SQUARE TYRES and reverting back to RB74 sporty street pads :)

Looks like you are doing better than old mate in the red car out the back? Reverse entry? lolz :P

  • Like 1

LOL, i bet you have ABS :)

I cant drive with bitey pads like some Hawks and Endless CCR. I just forever lock up and flat spot tyres :(

= SQUARE TYRES and reverting back to RB74 sporty street pads :)

You must be trail braking alot to carry a locked tyre that far into a corner or is it that you had to stay on the brakes late due to an earlier lock up?

I used to use RB74's. But I found that once they went away due to heat they never would come back. Not sure why.

The DS2500 feel as though they have changed in the last set I bought. Alot more bitey when you first bed them in. After a few kms they reverted to how they used to feel.

His set are for R34 calipers so no good for me.

I'll check out OTR though, cheers for that.

Ah yes, you must have the Nissan brake setup.

Then the part number you need for PMU is F236.

Cause I upgraded to Brembo Calipers, I just see it as all interchangeable :laugh:

As the part numbers are all the same for R32 / R33 / R34 GTR (Brembo Caliper Only)

Which is PMU F206.

  • Like 1

Ive used the a1rm on about 4 track days and there not really confidence inspiring. They tend to let go after one or two decent laps and they wear out really fast. Waste of money in my opinion. Get a set of pmu clubracers and you cant go wrong. They have heaps of bite when cold so you can use them on the street with no problems

I have already haha. I bought a set of pmu clubsports of them which they recommended but i never fitted them coz i bought a set of alcons soon after with the clubracers which are a step up to the clubsports. There brand new in box if anyone wants them pm me

So you went from stock hardware with a1rms, to alcons with PMu.... Fair test? :/

Yes It is because my opinion is directed to the topic of a1rm pads on stock gtr calipers which is what people were talking about. The a1rm pads in my opinion, and im sure gsl will tell you the same thing is, a1rm is a very good street pad that you can take to the track and the clubraces are a track pad you can also drive on the street. It has plenty of bite when cold and when used on the gtr brembos will still be a big step up on the a1rm.

You must be trail braking alot to carry a locked tyre that far into a corner or is it that you had to stay on the brakes late due to an earlier lock up?

I used to use RB74's. But I found that once they went away due to heat they never would come back. Not sure why.

The DS2500 feel as though they have changed in the last set I bought. Alot more bitey when you first bed them in. After a few kms they reverted to how they used to feel.

RB74s in my pad shape are dirt cheap. Something like $140. I have plenty of rotor and cooling so luckily able to get away with cheap pads. Am going to give RS4-2s a go next.

And yes,..I carry a fair whack of brake up to the Apex. I set my car up so its a bit dosey in turning as it is easier to wrestle the car to the apex and have good power down then a nice front end that the read doesnt want to follow and blases tyres on exit. Maybe a more switched on person could set the car up better but meh...it is what it is

I find my a1rms were fine on the track. But I have a much lighter car. How much are clubracers worth? I just looked it up at $350 for some fronts, so I think I'll be ok with the QFM product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...