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Thrashed R33 S2

masasaki2342

By masasaki2342,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Legendaryl
Legendaryl

Op, Looks like the "seasoned" members have come in. What is your definition of thrashed? As far as I'm concerned you can run a car hard (within reason no boucing of the rev limiter for ages, no fla

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Petrol engines anyway. Nails on a tin roof, just listen to an Excel going up a hill.

Missileman
Missileman

These two and a oil temp gauge, stop thrashing before 120c

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

5K is ok so is 6, after 7 is where you need to careful

Nuh I never go past 6. Unless I track my car, which I haven't done yet.

Well that's just boring, this thread isn't about thrashing at all!!?? Take it to 8, that's where the fun starts ;)

:laugh:

Legendaryl Enthusiast

Legendaryl

Posted
Posted (edited)

Op,

Looks like the "seasoned" members have come in.

What is your definition of thrashed?

As far as I'm concerned you can run a car hard (within reason no boucing of the rev limiter for ages, no flat changing) and as long as its properly serviced it will be fine.

If a car cannot handle being pushed to the limits day in day out with SOUND maintenance than it is a piece of shit that is not worth your time.

To me thrashed is hard driving without maintenance. That is what will destroy an engine, gearbox etc. Chasing 300kw on a stock bottom end.

Drive your Skyline hard and service it fastidiously. It will last you a long time.

Edited by Legendaryl
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Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Also I would say knowing what pinging is and what it sounds like is beneficial.

A very good idea in general, but often it is hard to hear when you've got a helmet on.

If a car cannot handle being pushed to the limits day in day out with SOUND maintenance than it is a piece of shit that is not worth your time.

This. I used to be paranoid about turbo motors but they will handle it if you have looked after it properly.

1) Fresh oil, put an extra 500mL in and go a touch heavier in oil thickness than usual but only if you will do several laps at full noise. I recommend something like 5W-40 for general street use and some light "exercise". Last track day I did I put 5W-50 in which is probably overkill but gives you peace of mind - the oil won't break down unless you go way too far on temperatures.

2) Make sure water levels are fine and that your radiator is in good nick. I did a track day once on a blocked radiator (mechanics mixed red and green coolant without my knowledge) and it got a bit toasty. I now have a thicker than stock aluminium radiator and have no qualms about giving it more stick. There is a standard water to oil heat exchanger which is intended to warm up your oil on cold start, to a degree this will also help keep a lid on oil temperatures if your water temps are solid (ie water temp 85C oil temp 120C the oil is going to be dumping heat back into the cooling system which then dumps it out via the radiator).

3) Don't limiter bash it. Accelerate smoothly up to just before redline and then change gears. Don't leave it off throttle just below redline, ie corner entry.. I try not to be off throttle above 6k RPM as much as possible, use your brakes to slow the car down not the engine (I only break this rule when I really need to be in that gear for corner exit)

4) Make sure the fluids are warm before you flog it, and give it an easy lap to cool down before you come back in. Check the car throughout the day for any leaking fluids, temperature problems or something that doesn't look right.

5) brakes. fresh pads and rotors in good nick. make sure you bed them in at least a week or two before the track day. new brake fluid before a day is a MUST - DOT4 or super DOT4 or DOT5.1. Do not use DOT5 as it doesn't handle water ingress well and has a very short lifetime inside the braking system. DOT5 is only for cars that are frequently tracked and fluid changed.

With proper care I had no problems giving it full noise for a full 20 minute session. Car loved it. Of course, if you are running a lot more power than standard and you have done nothing to help your engine keep cool then you will be in trouble. Nissan designed everything just fine for standard power levels, but people wonder why they get a 280rwkw tune, do 10 hot laps on the stock radiator with no oil cooler and pop a motor. Not rocket science, more power = more heat. Gotta get rid of it! Stock power levels are fine with stock equipment.

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