Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a new set of track pads to replace my DS2500s. The DS2500s were nice, but might get me through 2.5-3 track days.

I'm interested in anything similar that might last a bit longer or doesn't cost as much to replace every half handful of track days. Happy for them to be a track only pad and to be swapped out for any street/hill climb/deca stuff.

Have been looking at others like DS3000s, Hawk DTC-60, QFM A1RM. I know the DS3000 and DTC-60s aren't cheaper in many cases, but maybe they will last a bit longer.

Any feedback is appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/
Share on other sites

Pagid RS19s are nothing like DS2500s though. Endless CCRG are race pads! The Club Racer are much bitier then DS2500s from what I could feel in the car I have driven with them (WRX so pretty boig variable there). All the suggested pads are damn good pads but bite, temp range and price all very different to DS2500s.

My guess again is if you like DS2500s then stay away from Hawk which generally have a lot more bitet then the more wooden DS2500s. QFM A1RM are a decent enough pad but like the RB74 and others I think you will find they wear just as fast, if not faster than DS2500s.

If you like the feel and lack of too much bite of the DS2500s then consider something like a Pagid RS4-2 pads. They are a nice pad that are not too bitey (for those without ABS) and last a life time...good on rotor wear as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7086360
Share on other sites

A1RM's are not recommended for pure track pads, have just got some Carbotech XP10's from the US but have not tried them yet.

I run them as such, and they are fine for me. Nil fade or overheats. Difference is its a 180sx that's stripped, and has 324mm front 297mm rear discs.

3 track days in on them, and I'd be comfortable doing another two before changing the front pads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7086939
Share on other sites

I run them as such, and they are fine for me. Nil fade or overheats. Difference is its a 180sx that's stripped, and has 324mm front 297mm rear discs.

3 track days in on them, and I'd be comfortable doing another two before changing the front pads.

I've used A1RM's too but they are not a race pad, same with the Lucas TRW pads now being used and which are going to be replaced with the XP10's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7087150
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Old thread bump.

Any updates guys?

Emo is getting low on pads, so looking for options.

Also, road/track day rotors.

Or should I look for a separate thread?

I has option for you ;)

Dba4000 work well and emo being 2piece should have replacement rings??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7484601
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Bit of a bump here, looking for experiences with various track only pads. My present Carbotech XP10's are bloody brilliant, great bite feel and modulation and stand the car on it's nose retardation, kind to rotors too. Only problem is that they wear quickly compared with a good street pad and have to be US sourced. Which is not as cost effective as it used to be.

So, any recommendations other than Hawks and Ferodos?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7714617
Share on other sites

Bit of a bump here, looking for experiences with various track only pads. My present Carbotech XP10's are bloody brilliant, great bite feel and modulation and stand the car on it's nose retardation, kind to rotors too. Only problem is that they wear quickly compared with a good street pad and have to be US sourced. Which is not as cost effective as it used to be.

So, any recommendations other than Hawks and Ferodos?

Go to Race Brakes and get a set made up to your requirements

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7714624
Share on other sites

Intima SR pads - very good pads for sprints and track days. Excellent value, they are rated to 650 degrees and were kind to my DBA rotors.

I got around 4-5 events out of them. Car is an S13 Silvia, 1070kg and 230kw's@wheels.

I recently upgraded to the Type D pads which are rated to 850 degrees. After switching to E85 and retune up to 255kw's@wheels I was thinking I might be arriving at corners a little quicker now and thought I'd go the more aggressive pad.

The Type D pads were $200 for the front pair.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7715022
Share on other sites

Will check out the Intima pads, has anyone tried the Project Mu Club Racer pads? They are available in stock locally.

The club racer had to much bite for me. So I've been using the hc800 since WTAC last year. They are lasting pretty well. Good progressive bite, but they do fade off on my 330mm rotor. Which is more disk heat related than pad I think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434224-track-pads/#findComment-7715104
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...